Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I'm trying to wire up Hitachi internal regulated alternator upgraded on my 1971 240Z and the wires listed on a post on this site list a yellow, white, black, black with white stripe and white with black stripe wires. My wires are yellow, white, black, white with black stripe and white with blue stripe. In the post it says to connect the black with white stripe to the white with black stripe. I'm wondering if mine should be the white with black to the white with blue stripe or which wire to connect. Any help is appreciated.
Last reply by d240zx2, -
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Anyone else have problems with the MSA internal regulator alternator upgrade? Mine seems to cut in and out, the lights dim perceptibly and the amp gauge jumps as the regulator cuts in and out. Switched back to the old alternator and external regulator and everything works fine.
Last reply by northernz, -
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We had some electrical work done on my 280 last month to go over the wiring and replace some of the old corroted wires and connections. One of the things they did was put a different style fusable link set up which loses the fusable link covers, so here's a picture of what it looks like. Thought you guys might be interested in seeing it.
Last reply by sblake01, -
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I recently lost the low beam function only on my headlights. The high beam function works fine. I have read throught some of the forums and followed some of the suggestions that seemed related, but no luck.I followed the factory service manual trouble shooting guide by checking continuity on the dimmer, it works fine. The factory service manual shows that a red wire with a white stripe in pin location 16 should be hot in the low beam on position. I have none. The manual shows a connector numbered c2 where it enters in the 2nd from the top pin location. Where is this connector ? I am unable to locate the connector. PLEASE any help would be greatly appreciated!James
Last reply by dillie327, -
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Trying to find some information. Okay so I have searched... and I have read the stuff here (http://www.atlanticz...inks/index.html) and also looked at the 75 Wiring Diagram (attached). I have a couple questions. For the 76 and up, it is clear in the wiring diagrams that the White wires all go to the starter for power. The WR ones go to their respective items. (each fusible link has a white wire to it, and a WR wire) So now for my 75 (originally an auto but swapped to man) the alternator link (80amp) has two W wires going to it, and the ignition one (40amp) has both WR wires going to/from it. The white wire from the starter goes straight to the 80amp fusible link. The t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Can someone tell me what this is? I thought it was the water temp sender, but it doesn't look like the MSA replacement. It goes in the thermostat housing. I broke the wire off of it. I tried to solder it back on, but there wasn't enough wire on it to solder to. Thanks Nick
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 7 replies
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I headed down to my local saturday night car show last evening and noticed something that I never noticed before. I installed the 60 amp alternator conversion from MSA and have been happy with the output I have been getting. Very happy actually. I did notice something peculiar. When I turn my lights on at idle, the car literally loses about 150 rpm. It feels like an AC compressor has turned on. Now I understand that with the headlight harness installed the lights draw directly from the battery. Is that alternator trying to charge the battery so hard that it becomes that hard to turn? I know alternators take HP to run, but never thought it would be that much. This…
Last reply by marino, -
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I have both wiring diagrams but I cannot really afford to print and laminate the '77 harness so I can compare them both (unemployed and a full time student) ; but can anyone tell me the differences between the '76 engine harness and the '77? I have it installed but I am not getting signal to the fuel pump. I heard there were differences with the MAF sensor that link directly to the fuel pump. any one have any info? Thanks, Randy
Last reply by Stangrage, -
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Hey all, I have a an oddity that some of you may be able to clear up for me. When we bought my son's car (72 240z) the tail lights were not installed. THe tail lights have 4 holes for lights. The harness that I have only has 1 bulb in it. hmmmm? What's the deal is that the wrong harness or the wrong lights? The car seems to have a 4 post connector but those two harnesses are the only ones I have. Any help pr pictures of what the harness should look like would be great! Any source of these harnesses? Thanks! Mike
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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I am rebuilding a car that I saved from the crusher and need some help on the headlights. Attached is a diagram of what I am working with. It seems the high beams work fine but when the low beams are switched on both the high beams and low beams are on. I have cleaned my turn signal switch and headlight combo switch and my hazards work fine. Can someone with a 73 go out and test there wires like my diagram and let me know what the wires should do? I also bypassed the high beam/low beam switch and simulated the switch and the problem is the same so it is not the switch. The problem that I think I have is that when the low beams are on two wires are hot. Can someone confir…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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About a week ago I met my wife for dinner at a nice little restaurant in town. I decided to drive the Z as it was a gorgeous evening for a cruise. I get to the restaurant without issue and proceed to enjoy my meal. When we get outside it is dark. My wife gets in her car and starts to head home. I hop in the Z, let it warm up, and head off too. I get no more than 1000 feet from the restaurant and start to smell smoke. Within another 100 feet the odor is quite strong and I can see smoke coming from my vents by other's headlights. I frantically pull into a deserted parking lot and turn off the car and lights. The car stops but the parking lights will not turn off. Sm…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
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So I got my car running a few weeks ago and thought that I might have put the oil pump shaft in a "tooth off" because I couldn't get the timing just right. I did manage to get it running pretty good and idling a little rough at about 800 rpms after it warmed up nicely. I accomplished this by retarding the dizzy as far as it would go. When it was retarded as far as it can go I would be some where in the neighborhood of 20 degrees with my mark. My FSM says I should be at 5 degrees and I think opinions vary here between 5 and 12 degrees. I would like to start with 5 and see how it runs. So today was rainy so I didn't drive the car and decided to look into whether or not …
Last reply by JohnnyO,
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