Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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The connectors on my '70 Z (5/70) are large. When I order a harness, I get ones with small connectors. What is he correct size? The connector from the harness has the larger connector. See pics.
Last reply by mbarjbar, -
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any info about or pictures of the OEM configuration...looking for confirmation of the battery ground side having/not having an additional wire to car body or harness besides the cable to the starter...1978 280Z built 9/77 thanks, Harry
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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i have a 1973 240z with an automatic trans. it has dual points and can't be changed to electronic ignition. would like to change the distributer to single points so i can go with the pertronix setup. can anyone tell me why the auto trans. models have dual points. can it be changed to single points, if not why? bill
Last reply by cockerstar, -
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I searched here and on HybridZ and found answers, but not in the combination I'm looking for. I have a '71 240z that has a 280ZX electronic distributor installed. The ballast has been removed and the wiring has been modified to use the stock 1971 240z tach. I have been having crazy misfires when the car gets warm. I can clearly see this happening on my Innovate LM-2 wideband. In the morning, I get a steady AFR with a few hiccups and as I drive it the idle AFRs are *all over* the place. A new coil is on the way but I have a sneaking suspicion that it's not going to solve my problem. I know this much about the installed distributor having taken it apart. Most of the…
Last reply by zKars, -
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Will the factory battery hold down equipment work on an optima red top. I need something to hold my battery in place better than the plastic bin and a nylon strap the PO gave me.
Last reply by d240zx2, -
not 100% sure where to post this but i found this on craigslist today. not a bad deal. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/1715584735.html
Last reply by lonetreesteve, -
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Believe it or not, there is a source for new (or a very well refurbished) headlight switch. Rockauto has it for $199. Yes, that's more than what Dave charges, but I decided to take a chance on what Rockauto was selling. It was a perfect fit, too. The switch is listed as STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part #HLS1026. I'm glad I went this route. I happened to notice during the removal of the old switch that there were signs of wires overheating at the connector. Dave, if you read this, does your parking light relay work with a 260Z? Steve
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
Well i just got the wiper motor and blades out of the car to clean them up. I test the motor but it turns very slow, I read some threads about cleaning the wiper motor but I can't take the plastic bag out. I fear I might brake it. Can Anybody tell me how to take it off without breaking it? TIA
Last reply by GILDIA, -
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So for the past couple of weeks I have been working on a wiring diagram whenever I have been bored or drunk. So here is the nearly final diagram that I will be putting in my car. larger version http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4439513011_17611f45c7_o.jpg the point was to start new when i install the new dash, get rid of everything possible and use switches, replace glass tubes with and bladed fuses/breakers; since i have yet to find a diagram that does that i decided to make one and share. a couple notes on the components. -designed to work for a 240z, but really anything is possible with this -all gauges are to be assumed autometer unless i find a better/che…
Last reply by crazyoctopus, -
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I stopped by MSA on the way home from work today. I needed to pick up a set of NGK plug wires for my 71. I have yellow Taylor wires (great product name!) on my car now, but wanted the NGK wires to swap out for the MSA show this month. The Taylor wires are the only non stock/Datsun/Nissan item on the car now. Guess what? The NGK wires are now electric blue, they no longer make the gray wires. Needless to say, I didn't buy them. Anybody have any ideas on where to pick up a set of NGK gray wires?
Last reply by sam74260, -
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I am getting the parts together to do the GM HEI electronic ignition conversion to my '72 240. I bought a '75 280Z distributor but turns out it was from an automatic and has two reluctor pickups. Apparently the second pickup is to retard the timing on if a temperature switch (on the 280Z) is closed. I disassembled this thing, cleaned and lubricated it and put it back together with only one pickup. I hooked it to an oscilloscope and the signal appears the same as before dissassembly. Any reason why I just can't remove this extra pickup? Also, there is a part called out as a "contactor" that I put back in but am unsure of how to set the gap. The contactor seems to c…
Last reply by Jetaway, -
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Ok, today I removed the Capacitive Discharge system I install 37 years ago. (1972 240Z) Re-established the stock wiring on the coil etc. Car started ok! yea. BUT The tach doesn't work well. It works to about 3,000rpm, but jumps around above that. Also, when throttle is closed the tach drops to zero immediately and bounces up and down before settling down. The CD system had a wire coil behind the tach that replaced the stock wire, that of course was removed. When removing the CD system I reinstalled the white wire loop back on the tach. So what do you think is the problem?
Last reply by ZCCOR#109,
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