Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
Ok, so I definitely need to replace my starter - check this out. I'm pretty sure I figured out why the battery that came with the car kept dying. This even has a local Z-car specialist (Z Whizz) stumped. The starter motor seems to randomly kick on without engaging the solenoid and spins until the battery dies. I noticed it today when I went to connect the fresh battery. As soon as there was power, the starter was whirring its heart out but not engaging the flywheel. At the shop's advice I rapped the starter body with a hammer handle to see if any stuck contacts disengaged, and it fixed the problem; I could then reconnect the battery and the starter didn't kick on. O…
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
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What coil do you guys recommend for a 75 280? Everything basically stock with mild Isky cam upgrade. Should I just use comparable factory one or hotter? Thanks for your input! Bryan
Last reply by LBO730, -
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I picked up the MSA 60-amp alternator & stock voltage regulator bypass, it came in the mail today. It's a Hitachi unit (or at least a Hitachi housing) rebuilt by Bosch by the look of things. I think I'll have it tested before I install it to make sure it works properly. Also, there's a warning on the alternator that says battery must be fully charged before installation. Is verifying the battery as simple as putting a multimeter across the terminals to look for 12-13 volts with the car turned off? As a side note, does anyone have experience with the MSA rebuilt units? The price is certainly good at $65ish plus a core charge.
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
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Ok folks, here is a question I'm really hoping is answered in my favor, becuz if it is it will make up my mind quite well. I have been reading a few threads like the one below that say the following: One can run a 280ZX electronic distributor in a 240z WITHOUT any igniter module attached to it if running it in conjunction with an ignition control box such as the MSD-6A. I have come to the undeniable conclusion that going with the 280ZX distributor system using the E12-80 module isn't feasible. At $300 or more per module, I could have gone with something way more racy after just one failure. If this is in fact true, then I'd be very interested in pursuing the idea. I…
Last reply by BTF/PTM, -
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Since restoring my '78, all of the electronics have worked fine - until today. And I think I know why. I've been using my cell phone charger in the lighter with no issues for several weeks now. The lighter element worked great too. And I never noticed any change in the voltmeter reading (both the voltmeter and fuel gauge work fine). This morning, however, I noticed that I wasn't getting any power to the charger. Just to verify, I then tried the lighter element and it too didn't work. I also noticed that the clock, which had been keeping near perfect time, stopped right around the same time this happened. When I got home from work, I checked the lighter fuse and sure en…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Yes, she has some issues. Until recently, I have had full control over my turn signals. The TS fuse blows upon insertion. I believe it is the 10A common. I swapped it for a 20A, and instead of one side going blinking, all of my lights blink. More of a dim, really. Headlights, taillights, interior/dash, fuel pump, everything dims. Hudge amperage draw while dimming, as shown by the dash indicator. Sometimes it starts by clicking really fast, quickly slowing in tempo, usually stopping by itself. I had one headlight for the longest time, and two high beams. Nothing now, and no blown fuses. It's probably a loose wire somewhere. Brake light fuse (20A) blows upon insertion. It …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I had a problem with a very rapid drain on my battery a few weeks ago on my 280. with the help of everyone here I managed to narrow it down to the voltage regulator. So, I tested it, and ended up having to replace it. Did so. Now for the current problem: I replaced the voltage regulator 4 days ago, the car ran fine, no problems. I kept the battery hooked up to see if the new regulator would do its job, and it did. So for 3 days my car would start up with the first turn of the key, no problems. Now, on the morning of the 4th day, totally dead. I went to start it up and nothing, not a turn over, not a clicking, nothing...just deadness. I checked and rechecked the connection…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I am planning some upgrades to my 72 240z to make it more comfortable. What I plan is to install Power windows (Spal), locks, and 90 Z3 power seats with heaters and power adjust. I have a gm upgraded alternator already installed, as well as Dave’s headlight relay and taillight relay. I have had issues with the fuse box in the car and plan on replacing it with these upgrades. My question is, for those of you that have upgraded to a more modern optioned car, how have you tapped into the Electrical System in the S30? Pics and explanation would be appreciated. Dave Irwin can answer all my questions but I would like to see others approach also. Thx Dave Mods, I put this in…
Last reply by back-to-zcars, -
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Ok i have a little issue and wanted need some help... Im not really familiar with the wiring in the z yet so hopefully somebody can suggest a cure... about a week ago i noticed my in dash left turn signal (the green arrow) stopped flashing but i could still hear the clicking... so i went to look at the rear left tail to see if the turn signal was working and it was... so i proceeded to the front left and nothing the only time the front left light works is when the running lights are on... Before the in dash signal stoped working the outside left turn signal actually worked... SO with all that said is this problem related to a in dash light bulb? or is it something more s…
Last reply by tlorber, -
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The '78 280Z is running well. But the strange thing is that as the RPM climbs, the tach tops out around 3900-4000 RPM - the tach, not the engine. What's up?
Last reply by alhbln, -
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I have a 77 280z that has had electrical problems since I got the thing. I believe I've got pretty much everything figured out and I'm ready to start driving it. But I'm not sure about the volt meter. I've got 3 questions... 1) The volt meter reads 12v when the car is off and no lights on. Is this normal, or is something staying on and draining the battery? 2) When the car is running, I've got 12v, but the red charge light stays on. What should I be looking for? 3) And last, my tach jumps all over the place when accelerating or above 4k.
Last reply by leftover z, -
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Well title says it all. Passenger side seat has it, it also has original vinyls. Drivers seat has quite new vinyls over it but no sensor. Are these rare/expensive to get?
Last reply by Bonzi Lon,
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