Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 2.1k views
1972 240Z: Where does the parking brake switch wire run? ...from the console OR does it come across the floor from the passengers rocker? Mine is missing, so I need to either find it, or run a new one. It's a Yellow/Blue wire supposedly... THANKS! :ogre:
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
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- 13 replies
- 6.2k views
My 72 will be getting Webers so I installed an electric fuel pump. It was nice of Datsun to give us pre-installed wires for the pump. They run from the radio area back to the fuel level sender area. A black and a green wire with T-Connector up front, and bullets in the back. Now that the pump is connected to the bullet connector out back, what should I do with the T connector up front? I need switched power for the green wire and I suppose I can just ground the black wire. But this is a fuel pump we are talking about. What is the proper way to wire a fuel pump so that it stops pumping if the engine stalls? In the 280Z, Nissan used a switch in the AFM. What do we us…
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
76 no start problem 1 2 3
by darom- 25 replies
- 4.5k views
Hello, I need your guys' input on something the PO did to my car. 1976 280z, stock, with 79 alternator (no voltage regulator). I appreciate your time reading this. I replaced all the injector connectors + 4 more (air valve, cold start valve, thermotime and temp switch). In addition, I took the intake/exhaust manifolds off to install the studs. The PO used a lot of wood screws to hold them. A new Nissan gasket was installed. Everything looked nice and clean. I was happy. While replacing/soldering the connectors, I noticed the PO ran an ignition wire (START position) to the engine bay's Bosch aftermarket relay (one of the relay's contacts was connected to positive on the b…
Last reply by darom, -
- 15 replies
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I "think" my 4-speed has a neutral switch in it, up near the top plate, by the shifter. I "think" it's a neutral switch because it's there in the right spot for one, but not actually working. It does not change state in gear or neutral. It's open all the time. So: 1) The switch is probably bad. 2) Was it used to inhibit the start circuit unless in neutral? 3) What years was it used in the 4 speeds? 4) My 72 car is wired with a 72 automatic harness, should I tie the neutral switch wires from the harness to this switch, when I fix it, if i want the inhibit to function? Thanks! PS: I just ordered a 72 wiring diagram from ebay because the FSM one is :stupid:
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
- 3 replies
- 1.6k views
looking for help please, I searched for hours with no luck. My 1972 240 with HI-6 spark box P92 coil and 280z distributor worked perect for many years. Now it won't start. No spark at the plugs. The HI-6 staus light does not turn on and off when cranking. This is suposed to mean no input trigger from the distrubtor. A mechanic said it's the HI-6 box gone bad (it's been in an area that gets moist/damp for some of the year). But before I replace it, I would like to make sure the distrubtor is not the problem. So is there a way to test if it's sending a trigger pulse from the pick-up coil? How do I take it's pulse:) Tom
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
- 4 replies
- 1.8k views
Radio lights up but....no sound? Fuses good, and am going to check it out with a test light but is this a common issue just bought last week and haven't had time to work on much. Just slapped a $10 antenna on it to drive it to work could that be an issue?
Last reply by nismozx720, -
- 3 replies
- 3.2k views
i just installed an autometer tach in a 1971 240z, i am using the factory tach harness and i now use the green and white stripped wire as my tach signal. if i try to start the car with the green wire connected to the negative side of my coil my car cranks and cranks with no fire and the moment i remove it the car fires right up, i then attach the green wire back to the negative side of the coil and the tach works again. why wont the tach allow me to start the car but runs just fine when attached after the vehicle is on
Last reply by alhbln, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
i am replacing my tach with a spiffy autometer pro comp, i have already drilled in the face to install the led turn signal lights. as a last checkup of power with me and my handy dandy multimeter i realized that i didn't read any more than 100mv of power from the lamps even with the turn signal on and clicking away. is there some trick to this because my multimeter should have at least seen 10-12 vdc? do the turn signal lamps have to be grounded together or somethin?
Last reply by DOHCD15, -
- 9 replies
- 1.5k views
Excuse my inexperience, after reading some previous threads, I know some of you got pretty good at this... Little background: Was in the shop tracing the wireing harness, and shorted a wire against the starter block. The car did not start after the short. Inline Fuse (Fusable Link) is good, no obvious blown fuses. I have been trying to get it to start by connecting the two closest terminals on the starter, but have so far only produced a "Whrrrrrrr"ing sound (It doesn't engage?) Haven't found a junkyard that has a s30 or 280zx starter (car was L28 swapped), and am going to see a place that rebuilds starters tomorrow. Anyways, before that, I thought I'd ask... By c…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
Ok I have what could be a dumb question. When I hit my brakes my brake light on the dash comes on. Just like if I where to pull the e-brake. Is this normal. By the way it's 74 260. Just bought the car so I was not sure.
Last reply by andrew22888, -
- 7 replies
- 2.2k views
Hi, I had been having a problem with my turn signals. My Hazard flash work but the turn signals doesn’t. It is not the flasher because I tested it. There is Green wire that goes into the T/S Flasher but I read 10.5 V, and I think This may be causing the problem. This Green wire goes to the Hazard Switch and accordingly to the diagrams, this green wire gets power from the voltage regulator. Do you think the fault might be in VR? Thanks
Last reply by Bonzi Lon, -
- 29 replies
- 10.2k views
My set up 240z 1972 with stock ignition single point, L28 n42 block and n47 head, headers, stock SU's three bolt (rebuilt and all adjusted included float levels) car presently runs well but I suspect a weak ingition due to fouling plug 3, changes in plug presention with and without ballast (see below), noticable power increase with ballast bypassed (see below). 1. My consern is that I have an eratic misfire or eractic weak spark resulting in loss power. 2. manifold vacuum 12 hg inches consistantly at idle (too low for spec) (all valves have been adjusted cold and hot). no white smoke, barely noticeable black smoke at wot on freeway. 3. cylinders 6 and 5 presently s…
Last reply by jwgarvey,
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