Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 12 replies
- 3.8k views
One headlight works, both hi-beams. I rebuilt the switch to no avail. Ordered HLH and PLH (no taillights either) from Dave, as well as the MSA fusebox upgrade for the 72' (short pigtail, I believe). This is supposed to be a "Plug and play" upgrade, and would be... but I have an extra wire from the orginal fusebox. It is possible that the previous owner tried to mod the OE fusebox to prevent a meltdown. I believe this z came with a halogens, and at one point had a prettty nice sound system. Whatever it is, no meltdowns running halogens all night accross Canada. The "extra wire" comes from the rear of the fusebox, and is connected to a metal bridge, spanning one side of…
Last reply by fiveleaf, -
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- 6 replies
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Hello All, I'm working on the front headlight mounts and Assembly's. They are really rusty and corroded so I figured while I had the time I would glass bead them, powder coat and replace all the rusty hardware. The trouble is with the the plastic round nuts the adjustment screws turn into. They are all dry rotted and falling apart. Only 1 still had the rubber caps on them to protect the back side. After a search in the forums I cant find any info. I don't want to take a file to the mounts to use the newer square style if I don't have to. Does anybody know if the original style is available somewhere? I've called MSA, Black Dragon, Courtesy and a bunch of others with …
Last reply by tlorber, -
- 14 replies
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I have a 1972 Z w/manual, stock distributor, three screw hitachis that I recently purchased. Car has been driven little in past 5 or 6 years. Have had cold start and idle problems: Cold start - full choke applied, takes 10 to 15 attempts to get it started Will not idle below 1200 rpm, and I need to pull the choke slightly, otherwise when returning to idle (like when coming to a stop) the engine dies. It will restart immediately and sometimes idle, but will die again at the next stop. Off idle and driving - the car seems OK replaced: Battery (would not hold a charge) Points (heavily pitted) Distr Cap condensor Spark Plug wires Fuel Filter Also: Adjusted valves checked p…
Last reply by akorna, -
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Hello all About two weeks ago I upgraded my headlights to H4 replacement bulb type with a high end 55W bulb. Today I took my Z out for a nice long ride. About forty five minutes into the drive the driver's side headlight went out. About two or three minutes later it came back on. A couple minutes later it again went out and stayed off for about two minutes. Then came back on once again. Anyone know what this can be? I've read someplace that I should update the relay or something electrical as the old wiring can't take the load? Any help would be great. Jan
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 22 replies
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OK I am working on my 72 and the electrics seem relatively un-molested. I pulled out the aftermarket radio and the center console. I removed a couple splices and wire twist jobs that were obviously "aftermarket". The rest looked very clean with a lot of unused spades, bullets, and connectors. Dillema: When I removed the center console, the three connectors were already unplugged. They were: 1) Four Pin square layout (defrost/belts?) female 2) Flat 2-pin 2wire (choke lever) 3) Flat 2-pin 3-wire (belts/defrost?) For the life of me, I cannot find the mates for all of these in the fusebox area or anywhere behind the HVAC panel. There are plenty of receiving conne…
Last reply by cygnusx1, -
- 8 replies
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Currently we are working on getting US Tail lamp assembly made at same quality as the limited production Europeantail lights. Since Euro ones are very expensive, and very few were made (MSA has few now also) , we are working very hard to get the cost down. Our minimum order is 500 sets to get the cost down, so it will be a major investment and a space taker as well for us......... Price target/goal is at rertail price of $399 a set. Considering tipycal tail lamps for 300ZX are 200-300 a side, this should be a great pricing....... What do you guys think?
Last reply by WingZr0, -
- 18 replies
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Many threads on the Pertronix install and the option of going with the 1.5 OHM coil w/Resistor or the 3.0 OHM coil w/out the resistor. Tech support at Pertronix recommends the latter (Part 40511) - but this would provide full battery voltage in RUN to the Tach. Does anyone have this set-up and experienced any issues with the stock tach?
Last reply by alhbln, -
- 7 replies
- 1.3k views
My car does not turn on by turn of the key . I'm able to turn it on by bypassing the starter. I changed the key switch but no answer. When I turn the key it makes a little click by the fussible links. The car works well , but I hate jumping it everytime I drive it.
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 9 replies
- 2k views
I am currently restoring/refurbishing a 1973 240z.I bought the car after the engine/trans and clutch had been rebuilt.On the way home after purchase the alternator went bad.It had been changed to use a 280z alternator with the built in voltage regulator.I replaced this and the battery and everything was good for 2 brief drives and multiple start-ups.On the 3rd drive something started smoking and the ammeter was pinned to the right tach stopped working.I was amile from home.The car drove fine.After I shut it off and the smoke stopped I found that it was coming from the speedo cable and that a ground wire from the battery ground cable to the firewall had burned in half.I al…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I am in need of a fed / manual ecu for my 77 280z. I thought the 280z ecu's would be the same, but it appears i am wrong. I went to the pic a part and got the ecu out of a 75 280z and the plug is not the same. Any ideas? Am i right in thinking there is a difference from year to year? Thanks in advance. Dave
Last reply by Jennys280Z, -
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
After much looking and getting distracted and more looking, I have come to the conclusion that there isn't another thread on here that has answered the question to my problem so here it is: The headlights don't work. I have owned the car for several years now with no problems yet with the headlights. They have always worked and come on when I asked them to. This time, however, they didn't. The parking lights, hazards, break lights, running lights on all sides work, but not the normal headlights. I will admit that I failed to check high beams. Checked all the fuses and they are fine. None blown. Even checked them with a test light just to make sure. Sure enough, t…
Last reply by astewart, -
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- 1k views
Hi, I've upgraded by early 74 260z from the 2.6L to a 2.8L. Part of the upgrade was to also switch from an auto to manual trans. I bought a 2.8L from a guy with an existing distributor. Unfortunately it has a "rectangular" plug while I have the round plug (three wire). The new distributor has two black and one white wires. My old plug off the harness is Green Red, Green White and Yellow. I've already determined that the yellow wire can go (compared the auto vs manual wiring diagrams). Not really sure how to mate the harness wires to the distributor. Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks
Last reply by rooster287,
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