Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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On the schematic that zcar70 supplied it shows a speed adjustment. It that the recessed black slotted item just to the left of high center on the back of the tach? I have two tachs. One is over 200 rpms off and the other, just supposedly completely rebuilt, is 600 rpms off. Will that speed adjustment adjust the rpm reading on the tach?
Last reply by Ronald, -
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After some tinkering, I got my 76 280 running, she's looking good. However, I have almost no functioning interior electronics. Here is what DOES work (interior/exterior): Exterior ALL exterior lights Interior Fuel gauge Voltmeter (whatever its called) Im not getting any functionality from any other of the interior devices, no horn either (just a clicking sound from the pass side firewall). Im sorry if this is to vague, Im Im new to Z's, but I do know that this forum is amazing for helping with these wonderful machines! Any responses are appreciated. Thanks again, John
Last reply by JohnnyP, -
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My water temp gauge doesn't work. Bought a new sensor and was wondering how to swap it out. Work it out with vise grips?
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Yes I know there are about a dozen write ups or questions about upgrading the early Z's alternator, but this one is a little different. The upgrade that I did was a 95 Nissan Quest alternator, which is rated at 110amp output. High for most Z guys but helpful none the less. I'm not done with the install yet but I will be soon and will give a full write up with pictures to help others with the install. So everyone knows now there will be modifications required for this, i have also tried to address the issue of the belts breaking with the higher output alt. as well. Let me know what you think of this as I go along any and all feed back is appreciated. Kevin
Last reply by OniZ, -
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Im having trouble getting my 76 280z started. I did some thorough searching through these forums, found everything related to my symptoms/problems, and tried them all; heres what i did: Checked the fuseable links and cleaned all the contacts Cleaned the contacts to the starter, checked all the wires, ground, etc Made sure the ground from the battery cable was connected Scoped out the ignition, no fried wires, nothing. I can only get her started when i jump it, but when I get it started, it sounds totally fine. Its not the battery, I put a new one in a few months ago (and haven't been driving it). Tested the battery with a 50v meter, its fully charged. Also tested the alt…
Last reply by JohnnyP, -
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I figured putting 12V battery (+ & -) to the blue and black leads should power the clock, but it doesn't move or make any noise. The guy I bought it from says it worked and says I need to connect it to the harness to work correctly. I plan on putting it in my 240, so I will be altering the wire harness anyway. I am just trying to determine if I have a working clock first. Any help is appreciated. Ken
Last reply by nwZfan, -
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I have a 73 that I have been working on. The PO had a small column mounted tach which I disconnected. He had the light wired to the driver's side parking light. Removed. I updated to a Pertornix module and in the process found a green wire and a black/yellow stripe wire cut off inside the harness that carries the wires to the temp sensor and distributor. Anyone know what they are for? My step father drove the car from Memphis to Phoenix with no problems. I still need to tackle the non-working stock tach. He also had an aluminum radiator with an electric fan haywired in. I removed all that and installed a 3 core radiator. I have a picture posted of the wires in question in…
Last reply by 2Forty, -
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Just got my 72 240Z. All the other lights work fine, but for some reason i cant get any headlights. I measured the current from fuse box and from the headlight connector in front. No current at all. Someone suggested that soak the fuse box in vinegar, i'll do that ASAP. But there is also another problem that might be related to this. The switch in steering wheel. It's acting strange, when i put the lights on, most of the time it works but not all the time. When i roll it on/off few times it starts to work again. All the wires are good and connected. :stupid: Also the ignition switch has some issues. Sometimes when i start the engine it tries to start and CLUNK after tha…
Last reply by kjphilippona, -
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Hi, I recently had an electronic ignition modification done to my 1970 240Z. It runs much better but at higher rpms there is intermittent missing and the tach goes haywire. The tech working on the problem called PerTronix for help. They offered several suggestions, one of which the car would not run all and the other made no difference. I'm about to have the the original point system put back in to see if it runs ok. Anyone have similar problems that they have solved? Thanks, Ronald
Last reply by Ronald, -
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Hello all Can someone help me. My washer fluid motor was unplugged when I bought the car. I took it out and could not for the life of me find the other connection for it. Mine looks like the picture below and the only connector in the area looks exactly like it. Can anyone post the wires that are there please. Thanks Jan
Last reply by Pomorza, -
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- 2k views
Hello there, I bought this reproduction voltage regulator cover from MSA. I just wanted to share it with you all. It appears in the same shape and demention. The comes in slight textured white plastic material. It costed $62.99 Plus Tax and shipping. Pictures shows it with an original one here. Esprist
Last reply by Walter Moore, -
- 14 replies
- 2k views
After some HEAVY searching on the forums I have found a lot of information about not revving over a certain RPM (5000) and all the issues that could lead up to that. I think I'm having ignition issues combined with carb issues. The carbs I'm going to get rebuild, but when I look for ignition troubles I can't seem to find what the correct advance is supposed to be. So far I've found that at @700rpm you're upposed to have 17 degrees BTDC of advance. But what is supposed to be at speed? My car is exhibiting the following symptoms (4-screw dome, 1970 L24) - hesitation, poor idle, won't ide when cold. - using more than 1/4 throttle the car loses power at 70 mph if I push …
Last reply by Walter Moore,
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