Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I have a .5A draw. Pulled all fuses one at a time Alternator and starter have been professionally rebuilt . Replaced voltage regulator which I thought was the issue . It clicks when connecting the battery cable . Old one and the new one . It also gets warm . 2 bad regulators ? When I pull the field plug it quits So my white 12v from the starter is intact . I have 12v at the plug for the regulator ( solid white ) I have continuity from the WB at the regulator to the WB at the field plug . That makes me think the regulator is not supplying the 12v at the plug .
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Hi All, 240z Wiring harness , L28 two questions below on grounds. The EFI set-up is complete. Worked with Haltech remotely engine is running but chasing down a vacuum leak. Also having a weird issue with the electronic distributor connection to the ECU. Losing the grounds randomly. First questions: Need to add a grounding strap from the chassis to engine block. Why, attempting to move my star ground (all required ECU ground connections) to another point (currently chassis). Where is the best connection point? The engine bay harness is a stock 73 240Z. Is the chassis ground under the battery box off the harness a good point for a chassis to engine block s…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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I have a 6/70 that I am putting back together. I reinstalled the dash, harnesses, etc. The front & rear turn signals work, hazards, all dash lights, headlights, taillights etc. I can hear the flashers clicking. Everything flashes for the turn signals and hazards except the lamps in the instrument panel. I don't know if they ever did work. I never drove the car. The hazard switch does not appear to be factory correct (I think it came from a (~7/71) so I wonder if someone plowed this field before me. Is it safe to assume the instrument lights run off the same wire as the front turn signals? If the front turn signals work but the lamps in the dash don…
Last reply by 87mj, -
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Good Evening Everyone, So I went to go for a drive last night, and when I turned on the headlights I noticed that the dash didn't light up. I got out of the car and noticed the headlights were on, but the tail lights and side markers were not. Very odd... I checked the fuses and noticed the applicable fuse was burned out. I turned off the headlights, replaced the fuse, turned them back on and within a few seconds the fuse began to smoke and burned out again. Maybe an exposed wire was touching something it wasn't supposed to? I shut it down, went around to the front and noticed a cable just dangling touching the ground (please see first picture) I've t…
Last reply by 87mj, -
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Just putting this out there for people to remember when diagnosing electrical issues, I have seen this on a couple of cars now. First a 260Z with no turn signals. The hazard lights worked. We looked for continuity from the switch to the bulb socket. The test failed, so I took apart the connectors to see where we were losing signal. All of the harness sections tested good. We plugged the harnesses back together, and the turn signals worked. Next a 280Z with an intermittent temperature gauge. After testing for a while with mixed results, I separated the dash harness from the engine harness, again with inconclusive results. After I plugged the harness back togeth…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Hey guys , I’m installing the 123 ignition on a customers car and he has automatic transmission . This is a 2/72 . I’ve been looking at schematics and I’m trying to educate myself on inhibitor switch’s and the rest of the workings of the auto trans . I don’t have a FSM and I’m using a Haynes manual and it doesn’t cover the electrical side of the auto trans . I just ordered a FSM for the chassis on S-30 and hope that help. My current concern is Red/black wire that splits to the two blacks - going to coil - and distributor . I would think that these are part of the inhibitor circuit so I need to tie these into the circuit with the 123 ? Are these grounds once all …
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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I learned something interesting in another thread about Nissan's move to electronic ignition systems, and thought it might be interesting to collect some stuff here. Nissan went from points to electronic ignition in 1974 with the 260Z. The coil still used a ballast resistor to limit current at long dwell times (low RPM). Spark gap was still specified at the gap used for points. 1975 and 1976 used the same basic system, an electronic module, a ballast resistor, and a coil, with spark plug gap set to the smaller points system gap. 1977 used the same basic system but opened the gap up to about .040" instead of the old ~.035". 1978 got rid of the balla…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi all sorry for being quiet so long. i had some work and family issues. I was able to get the car started. I still have some issues though. 1. it is idled WAY too high. Need some advice on that. have a short video so you can hear it. not sure if its still a timing issue, carb issue or what. i cant tell you the RPM bc the gauge isnt working. After a LOT of research i found that the ballast resistor is the likely culprit. i left it attached even after i put in the protonix ignition. Still not sure exactly how to correct it but i think this may be issue. 2. the fusible link on starter. Something is wrong. I keep burning through these. After the v…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Which electrical tape do you prefer for wiring harness repair/maintenance? Please add the reason(s) for your preference. Also, please let me know if there is an alternative choice which should be added to the poll.
Last reply by foosman, -
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On the laundry list of odds and ends I need to address, one is the reverse lights wiring . Upon my purchase recently there where no wires attached to the switch . I Looked around the forums a bit and seen mentioning the wiring diagram to determine the run, I have the diagram but was hoping anyone may have some pointers on if it comes through the firewall or it’s in the dash? Ironically I see 2 wires pertruding out the firewall could it be that easy ? The year is a 71 month 3 , i certainly will be scouring the forums for knowledge. And apreciate and and all help !
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
Gauge issues 1 2
by Dolfinz- 4 followers
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Now that I have the engine running it's time to address the dashboard electrical issues. The only gauges that work are the speedo and ammeter. I figured it might be a wiring issue related to them all so I pulled the dash. I couldn't find any damaged wiring but notice the terminal block pic attached. Possible connection issues at this point? Is there any kind of cleaner or solvent that can be used to clean up the connectors? Beyond that utilizing the wiring diagram I tried to figure out the concept behind the workings of the gauges. Can't figure it out. Black wires to all gauges are clearly ground. Red/blu wires to all gauges appear to be +12 but they are just for …
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Hi Friends, Sometimes when i turn the ignition On-Start etc. the starter do not engage. It is like there is no current flowing to it. I then back off the key and turn it ON again and after 2 try or sometimes 3rd try the starter gets engaged. Mine is a A/T so there is a seat belt relay which is also involved and I have the seat belt hooked. Have anyone seen this? where can the issue be? I feel one of the relays is not getting energized? what you guys think? Starter is rebuilt and I am hoping it is not a starter/solenoid issue.
Last reply by MH77280Z,
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