Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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Hey guys, I need a hand with the wiring on my 240Z. Recently I have been trying to get the wiring working properly. The whole system is very shaky and annoying due to the 36 year old wiring. I recently got the head lights half way working, but have begun blowing the fuse marked IGN which also happens to run some of the gauges and four way flashers, I believe. Anyways, I don't know where the wires coming off of the fuse block go exactly, and I need a hand figuring it out. I've already tried disconnecting my gauges (oil pressure, water temp, fuel) and emergency flashers. I think this fuse also runs the voltage regulator, but I have that jumpered off because I am using a Z…
Last reply by beebeecivic, -
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- 17 replies
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So, where to start? I know theres a short somewhere in the car because if I let it sit for about a week, it needs to be jumped. The Windshield wipers, when connected, don't turn of. And I have just had to replace the voltage regulator and now the alternator and now a fairly brand new starter is down too. Not sure if one caused the other but any advice on whats causing the damage? Or is it just bad luck!? Ehh.... A little more detail I guess wouldn't hurt. I had an issue with the voltage meter maxing out randomly which lead me to replace the voltage regulator. That seemed to fix the problem. I then let it sit for maybe a month and it wouldn't start. Could hear the fuel pu…
Last reply by lmcguffin, -
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Hello, on my '72 I found out that I've got a bad alternator, so i've picked up a rebuilt replacement, the only problem... the dealer installed york air compressor. The problem I have is how to remove the old one and get the replacement in place. From the back i've got the support brace from the bottom of the compressor to the motor mount and in the front its the radiatior, etc. Now about the A/C system... it's not currently hooked up, I'm missing the idler pulley, but the system appears fine, i'm giving it a 50/50 shot at working, no oil seeping from the compressor and all is still intact. The switch under the dash still engages the clutch... so I don't want to remove the…
Last reply by NissanMaster, -
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I'm looking for any leads as to where one can purchase connectors that will mate to my early 240 harness. The blade type connectors are the ones I'm looking for. I bought some from http://www.eagleday.com/blco.html but sadly they do not mate with the ones on my harness. The dimensions of the body of the connector is wrong - to large by a small amount. I have also found these http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm by searching the forums. Does anyone know if these will mate up? Any other leads to a source would be welcome. Thanks, John
Last reply by AZ2NV, -
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- 1.1k views
New sending unit in the tank and the gauge reads 1/2 when empty. Guess how I know? Gauge is original and this was the first it has had to register in 14 years. Mike
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 9 replies
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Occasionally on really hot days my 240z sometimes doesn't turn over. I hear the "Clicking" noise but no soleniod/starter action. It's ussually after I've run the car a while around town so it's hot and the heat is close to 90F outside. My electric fans work fine, all lights work, the radio works and I'm upgraded with the 60amp alternator hookup so my battery stays charged nicely. I've checked all my grounds and cables and could not find anything. I've seen other threads here with others that experience this problem. Question: Has anyone installed this Starter Relay Kit; was it easy and did it make your staring more reliable in the Heat of Summer? It's listed on …
Last reply by moritz55, -
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hi all, are there 2 different fuel pump relays for the 78 280z. the parts store stocks one that is different than the one in my vehicle. the one that's in my car now is twice the size than what the parts store showed me. the reason i'm replacing the relay is it looks like the original, and also because i had the rear of the car on jack stands doing brake work and when i finished the job and let the car back down on level ground i could not start the engine. i traced it back to the relay took it apart and the contacts were not touching, don't know what i did but got it to work, i could hear the fuel pump operating, car started . took it for a test run ran good till …
Last reply by lmcguffin, -
- 14 replies
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Sorry if this has already been beaten to death. I have a '74 260Z (build 3/74) and I would very much like to install a more potent alternator. I understand that the swap for 240Z's won't work due to fuel pump and seat belt interlock issues. I plan to go with an aftermarket fuel pump which I will wire from scratch with its own relay and oil pressure cutoff. The seat belt interlock was defeated by the previous owner and it looks like it was done by securing the emergency start button in the engine compartment in the permanently down position. I will not have too much electrical load - the only increase would be halogen headlamps and a slightly more powerful radio (50 w …
Last reply by Robert260z, -
- 7 replies
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i have a 78 280z with a 280zx engine/drivetrain with triple carbs. i cant seem to get my z to simply turn over. all the fuses check out. my question is do i need any of the fi harness and related fi component for the z to turn over? the over all goal is to try and start the car but first i need her to atleast turn over.
Last reply by overdrivex, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
Has anybody ever added the third stop lamp to an S30? It could be a useful safety tool with all the tailgaters out there, and that cars like the 280Z doesn't have the different colors for brake & turn signals. One old guy actually asked me why my brake light was flashing when I was turning, and that I should fix it (the wiring) before an accident happens... Would you rather use something traditional with bulbs in it or go with the new L.E. D. style? It could be attached to the plastic cover near the dome lamp or attached directly to the window... You could even go with the roof-mounted type. Wiring it all up shouldn't be too hard after you get all the interior…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 18 replies
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WHen I first joined this forum, I noticed my tach was never really happy anywhere above 5k. I quickly determined that it was in fact the tach that was not happy, rather than the engine. Today, it was the first really hot day out, and after being in the sun all day and then getting stuck in traffic, I noticed my tack was hovering around 4k. Which in itself is not that unusual, but I was idling at a stop light. I noticed it then began to bounce slowly back and forth as it made it way to peg the needle past 8k. Now since I was at idle, I was pretty sure that this was not really happening :stupid:. The car ran just fine, so I was really not worried, figured the tach w…
Last reply by ChrisZ, -
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- 3 replies
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I had the interior of the car out while doing all the floorpans and supports along with a T/C mount rebuild. After putting the car back together I ended up with a new problem. All lights work, turn signals, headlights, brakes, and dash lights, until I turn on the headlights and I loose the rear running lights, and license plate light, additionally the dash lights go out. Checking the FSM, I can see the license plate light and rear lights connected to the same problem, but not the dash lights. Am I missing a common point between these problems or am I facing two different issues? The reason I think they are related, is when I have dash lights I also have the lights …
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain,
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