Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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Well I'm currently elbows deep in a project with some ***** wiring and I was wondering if someone could help. I basically had to strip down the harness from where I connect to the ignition coil and where the temp sensor goes. I have been using my FSM for my '72 and am hoping that most of my tracing and guessing is correct. Here is what I have so far. The wiring abbreviations will be the same as the FSM standard: Long - Y - Temp sensor G - ? BY - ? B (becomes 2x - Neg coil - Neg dizzy (btw, swapped in an E12-80... I know how to wire that Short - BW - Pos coil from dizzy GW (becomes 2x BW when visible outside the harness) - Tach (?) - Pos coil (?)…
Last reply by e_racer1999, -
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no pun intended. i put in a fresh fuse and after working for a few days it blows out again. any ideas as to the likely cause? i'm rotten with electrical stuff.
Last reply by john mcgarvie, -
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just bought a 79 fairlady z. headlights dont work, i hear the relay kick with the running lights, but no relay kick for headlights, swapped smaller relays, nothing... i have power on both sides of the fusible link marked H.L. no fuse in the kick panel for it though
Last reply by racebird1, -
- 15 replies
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I have a new ignition coil and resistor for my 240z, but I have no idea how to mount the resistor onto the coil bracket. Nissan changed the design of the bracket for the coil and the resistor, so I'm confused as to how I'm supposed to do this. Is there some type of clip or screw I need? The coil bracket has one hole on the top of it and the resistor also has one hole.
Last reply by Arne, -
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I would like to talk share info about Rear Fog light that you can light up in 15 min. today. Many of you might already know, but I am sharing this info for many others. It cost under $20, and take only 5-10 min per side. There is an existing light socket hole between existing tail lamp holes. If you have Euro lamp, there is a plug that pops right out. Then if you go to Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Cragen, or Napa, you can buy this "marker light socket for Japanese cars" , and light bulbs, and cut-in-connector with gel coating. All of the should cost you under $20. (in my area, L.A.) Now all yougot to fo is to hook it up to existing tail lamp wires. No cutting-wires required.…
Last reply by ta240, -
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So i tried to start my grandpa's 280z but what happens is that the floor temp light lights up everytime. the voltmeter drops to 4 and i get a weird "wurr" sound. The engine doesn't turn over or anything, have no idea whats the deal. The little interior light works but the map or headlights dont. Turn signals work. ???
Last reply by racebird1, -
- 2 replies
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So I have been looking for a good wire diagram for my 72 240Z. This is the diagram that keeps popping up and its useless. Nothing on this one makes any sense. I am working on my coil and points. I am not getting any power when I have the key on. Plus when I put the key on start I get no power on the starter wire. All I am looking to do is run a jumper power wire so I can get spark and hear this motor run. I have a remote starter switch for the starter. With what this diagram shows I should be able to take the Black\white at the resistor and run pos 12 volts at that point. Now if I do that I get the coil acting like a short with the wire getting warm and starting ta smo…
Last reply by carguyinok, -
- 6 replies
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is there a difference between a 1973 240 fuse box and a early 1974 260 fuse box.like to upgrade my 260 one as the fuse holders are loose . msa only shows 1971 /1972 or /1973 thanks
Last reply by kully 560, -
- 3 replies
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Now that I had my electrical system sorted I wanted to check the condition of my gauges, the fuel was erratic and the clock... dead. I read all about the ease of taking the gauges out from the glove box but I do not have Japanese midget hands. So I took my dash cap out, grasped my dremel and butchered the top of the dash above the gauges. I now had all the space I needed. I took the gauges out in 2 minutes, took them apart dusted them mist them with a spray of electrical cleaner. I just had to fit the cap on the dash again and now all is back in place and working. All in all it was a 20 minutes job. Try that with your fancy non cracked dash
Last reply by Caen Fred, -
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I am finishing the alternator upgrade from MSA on my 72 240. The PO had already installed a 50 amp Hitachi unit but had made no changes to wiring. My question is do you have to switch over what I believe is an external condenser from the previous unit to the new one? The new alt did not come with this part, and I have searched to try to find anyone else with this problem with no answer. These are too expensive to burn up so I want to get it right. The pictures show the wiring before the swap and I have highlighted the part in question.
Last reply by citjet, -
- 6 replies
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I will make it short (ha ha). Erratically the electrical power goes dead. Not just the headlight, but gauges, turn signals, warning... the full monty! I have an upgraded 60amp Alt, an Optima battery, and a std 1972 240z The alternator is good, I converted my car to FI and I am able to read my ECU on a laptop with an USB connection and it gives consistent 13,5 - 14 amp all the time, even when all is dead. The ECU and fuel pump is on a separate loom coming from the battery, so the car still run when the old system is acting funny!
Last reply by sblake01, -
Battery Cover 1 2
by rtaylor- 16 replies
- 2.6k views
I picked up this little goodie today. As you can see it has the Nissan part numbers on the bags. Anyone have any ideas as to whether this was original equipment on a 71? My thoiughts are that it might be a JDM part. I haven't seen any talk about a part like this.
Last reply by Mike B,
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