Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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hi, does anybody knows what is the color of the wire for the hi beam? I am building my own harness but i am not sure what color is it, according to the diagrams I think it could be the RW wire. Thank you
Last reply by GILDIA, -
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- 4 replies
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My ammeter is reading a constant +15 to 20 at idle or while I drive. I have a 60 amp alternator with an internal regulater and Arne's upgrade. When I turn on my afternarket AC, the reading drops close to 0, back up to +15 to 20 when I turn it off. I am thinking the installation of the AC has something to do with it, but have checked the connections and can't see anything wrong. I just installed a stereo and it doesn't seem to have any impact on the reading. Was living with this for the last 2 months, but now the battery was drained this am. Any ideas?
Last reply by Duffman, -
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Hello. I drive a 71 daily driver and it is very reliable until yesterday. Driving down the fwy at about 3400 rpm the engine stopped for a split second. The remainder of the drive was uneventful. This morning howebver it happened again 4 or 5 times during a 20 mile drive to the office. Coming home it became more frequent and it actually stalled while driving down my street in 1st gear. Following this stall was a loud backfire. When it happens it is like someone kills the ignition -- just for a second. It is freshly tuned and I have a new ignition switch. I run a mallory dual point with an MSD coil. All of the connections look good. Please help with this puzzler
Last reply by ONZEDGE, -
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Previoius owners are unbelievable, are they not? I've been chasing a no spark no fuel problem with intermittant success but I may be on to something. I have had power to the fuel pump and to the injectors at the clips regardless of key position. Undoubtedly wrong. What I have discovered from the two cars setting side by side is : there are two red wires that come from a loom that crosses the front of the car to the driver fenderwell. One of those wires stays red, the other goes some 18" and then becomes two blue and one black wire and continue in the loom. Which wire goes to the positive side of the battery and which to the negative side? The previous owner had the …
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
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Hi guys, I am brand new to this forum and brand new to Zcars although I have years of fooling with cars, mostly old-really old Volvo's. Here is the short version of a long story. I just inherited a 77 280z in pretty good condition (good condition is always relative). The guy had fooled with it for years off and on trying to get it to run but was too stubborn to ask for help so I am not certain everything is where it is supposed to be. I bought a second 77z that is complete but the motor is seized. I bought it to have a life size reference manual and as spare parts. So, there is no spark from the coil when cranking. Power to the coil. And here is the catch. When yo…
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
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My 1976 280z balast resistor has a black and white wire that is hot when the key ON. A black and blue wire has power only when cranking the engine and another black and white wire that goes to a capasitor. When I crank the engine no spark from the coil but when the key is on ACC the coil wire sparks. I have a mallory coil, mallory distributor. Any Ideas?
Last reply by Curtis240Z, -
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hey all, im new to this forum and to z's i just bought a 73 240 a couple of days ago and spent like 6 hours cruising this forum for information. here's the dilemma: my headlights work, when the hi-beam is on and don't work when they're on low. what am i looking at here? thanks all
Last reply by Neumeier, -
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I've got a strange one. My 73 is pretty stock. It does have an aftermarket crane ignition, but I can't see how this would cause the following problem. When it hasn't been started for a few hours, and the engine is cooled to the ambient 90 degree air temp, the first two or so times you turn the key, the starter behaves as if it isn't getting enough power. It sounds like the battery is almost dead, and simply cranks slowly. On the third try, the starter cranks normally, and the engine starts fine. If the engine is hot, this problem won't happen. I've read up on cleaning the electrical connections between the battery and the starter, done that, no change. I'd really …
Last reply by ConchZ, -
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Hi All, I'm looking for a wiring diagram for a 1978 280Z. Mine, in a Haynes manual, is not very easy to read. Does anyone have one in pdf format that they could email to me? Thanks! John
Last reply by Neumeier, -
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I have a 1978 280Z that I have been restoring and I have finished with the engine,etc. under the hood. I wanted to get it up and running to begin the task of adjusting, fine tuning and such. When I turn the key to ON - not Start (although the pump should also run in Start) I am not getting ANY fuel pump buzz. I have had a 78 model for around twenty years and I know the fuel pump should be running initially in the 'ON' position. I have installed a new Fuel Pump and Oil Sender. I have also checked all of the relays and fuses. If I unplug the Oil Sender OR the Alternator, then the fuel pump jumps to life and operates as it should. So, what I need to know is what else …
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Just did the Honda blower motor swap in my 73. Trying to get the A/C up to par so it can be driven in the summer down here on the Gulf Coast. I purchased a new blower from O'reilly and did the installation. I hooked up my manifold gauges to the A/C system, started the car and turned on the A/C. The blower was in the HI position and moving LOTS of air compared to the old blower. After a few minutes, I checked the interior and it was cooling nicely. Closed the door and went back to the gauges. The clutch on the compressor disengaged which I thought was odd because it shouldn't have been cool enough in the car to shut it off. I opened the door to the car and the blower was …
Last reply by tstewart, -
- 9 replies
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Ok, so I just want to replace all of the wiring. Where the heck do they sell harnesses? That seems to be like the only time that is not reproduced! I was happy to find one on ebay, only to find out that it is for a 1973, which I am sure that it will not work on a 1971. Correct? Or am I to be mistaken!?
Last reply by xray,
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