Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Hi I have just bought a complete set of bulbs from Zcardepot but none are suitable for these lamps. Does someone know what type these bulbs are and maybe a picture of it.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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if I were to buy LED headlights would I still need the "headlight upgrade harness"? I was thinking the lower power pull for the LEDs would eliminate the need for the harness. I never drive at night and the LEDs are funny looking but I do like the option if I decided to go for a midnight run. Thanks for any input. These are the lights I could buy for not much money if I decided to. https://www.ebay.com/i/174083088616?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174083088616&targetid=916863675069&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012737&poi=&campaignid=9343999170&mkgroupid=100238963011&rlsatarget…
Last reply by AK260, -
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I've spent the past day cleaning the turn signal switch contacts on my 1970 240z to fix some electrical issues. The left/right blinkers now work, but I'm still having trouble getting my brake lights to work. After installing the cleaned TS switch, the brake lights worked initially but then stopped working-- so I tore it apart again to make sure that the contacts connecting the signal from the brake switch to the tail lights were clean. Upon reinstalling the switch they still do not work. I've confirmed that I get 12v on the green/yellow wire from the 6-pin connector that goes into the TS switch harness. I've also confirmed that when the TS switch is plugged in to the…
Last reply by Locke, -
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My '75 280z isn't running yet, but I think I'm getting close. I just finished going through the fuel system (new pump, lined tank, new filters, cleaned/checked function on all injectors, checked pressure, replaced hoses, inhaled copious amounts of gas fumes, etc) Next up, I'm starting on the ignition. I visually verified spark on all plugs when I did the compression check, and replaced all the plugs with fresh NGKs. The plugs are wired in the correct sequence coming off of the distributor cap. The car still isn't starting/running though. Within the normal range of adjustment (with the distributor adjust screw still in place), the best I get is a few chuff-ch…
Last reply by domdomdom, -
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I am sure members are aware that in my list of projects to bring my restored 72 to the next level I wanted to find a NOS bullet tip antenna. That has proven to be difficult but in my quest members donated or sold me donor antennas:D for parts and I was able to find enough good parts to complete a restoration of an antenna which is the next best thing. The finishing touch came when a member offered me a NOS mast. I hope the following will help other members in the position of wanting a good working original antenna.
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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Turn signals not working... classic. A widely discussed topic - a whole lot of great information out there surrounding it. All the solutions I've seen require taking apart the Turn Signal Switch. While this is a very professional and thorough way to go about things, it leaves room for breaking stuff, losing little pieces and so forth. That's more of a headache than I was willing to risk. So, let it be said that while my quick fix may not be the most permanent solution, it could be good enough for you. A few disclaimers: I did this on a late '71 240. From my understanding, the turn signals run through the Hazard Switch, so it's possible one's issue is with the Hazard …
Last reply by Tweeds, -
- 5 followers
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I'm back to work on my 78 280Z. It's from an estate and many items were removed under the hood by previous owner who wanted th "clean up" some things. I do have some history of the car having helped the owner in the past. Although it ran and passed a leak down and compression test withflying colors it had a number of things that needed attention. The major things i've done so far are installing new starter, alternator, distributor with fast xr3000 ignition module with distributor internals and matching Fast coil along with new plug wires, etc., new water pump and radiator, hoses, belts, removed all the old air cond. system parts under the hood, blocked off the ERG sy…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 3 followers
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Hi guys, I did some work on the interior of my 77 280Z and removed the dash, center console, steering column + switches, heater core and I also disconnected the fusebox and relays and and ziptied those to the side to get work space. Yesterday I wanted to get the car running again because I am moving to a new house in a few weeks and need to move it. So I reinstalled the dash, the steering column + switches, the center console and connected the fusebox en relais. But I left the heater core and the heater controls out so a few plugs are not connected.. Now I don't have any power to any of the systems. None of the lights work and the ignition switch does nothi…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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After being apart for years, I'm finally reunited with my 73' 240z. Unfortunately, the headlights and blinkers are not functioning.. I'm hoping someone here can give me some pointers. The hazards work/flash, the running lights work, brake lights work. The headlights very briefly worked, and we're very feint. The drivers side went out completely, and the passenger side followed shortly after. At the headlight connector on the passenger side, I am reading 11.80v on the lowbeam lead and 11.65v on the high beam. The drivers side headlight connector doesn't read any volts at all. Both the right and left headlights read 0.02v at the fusebox, white the other fuses…
Last reply by Psychophoria, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
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Hello, I am currently restoring a 78 Z and have run into a wall with the previous owner's hack job. Can anyone help me with a picture or wiring diagram for the Water Temperature Switch (not the temp sensor) on a 78 Z? The sensor has two wires, one blue (with male bullet connector) and one black for ground. I know that the blue wire connectes to the red one, but I have spent hours searching online trying to find out where that red wire comes from and the FSM isnt really helping much. I am missing this wire completely and I believe its making the Z run rough onelce its warm (runs great when cold). Does this red wire turn into any other color further back towards the w…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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This morning I jumped into Goldie to head to the shop and when I turned the key, the windshield wipers twitched. This has never happened - switch was off, but they jumped just a bit and stopped. I thought it was weird but continued to back out of the garage. I noticed my volt meter (ya, Goldie should have an ammeter being a 260Z, but this was a turbo swap from the beginning of my ownership - with a ZX alternator - so I eliminated the shunt right off and replaced the ammeter with a 280Z volt meter / fuel gauge) Anyway,, I noticed my voltmeter was dropping to 8-9 volts momentarily and it was doing it in a rhythmic pattern. Drop for half a second and go back to nor…
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
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I need to get help clearing the air on the coil for these cars. I begin by saying I have 2 coils, one was on the car and the other in a box of Z parts I acquired. The coil (#1 )that was in the car doesn’t really fit in the bracket, it too big but with a longer bolt it works, the one in the box (#2) is too small and won’t hold in the stock bracket with stock screw, #1 has a resistance from the center post to the (-) terminal of 1.5k ohms #2 has a resistance of 1.2 ohm #1 was on the car with the stock ballast resistor in place, and the car ran. I have subsequently removed the ballast resistor because I’m using the ZX e12 matchbox ignition. The 82’.…
Last reply by siteunseen,
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