Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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Hi I’m restoring a ’73 Datsun 240z and I was wondering if any of you could tell me how to test, if my oil/water and amp/fuel instruments work before I reassemble the dash and install it in the car. Regards Lars Peter
Last reply by gibson99, -
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- 9 replies
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I put the battery cables on the battery wrong. Now I have no electricty to the car. Battery has been charged and 12v is at the starter. Jammed a screwdriver between the two leads on the starter and the engine turned over. No voltage at all inside the car. All fuses inside the main box are good. Is ther any other fuses I can check. Dave (Rookie move)
Last reply by gibson99, -
Starting issue 1 2
by liltuber- 15 replies
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OK, so during winter I took out my dash to get some work done to it. I put it back in in a hurry and I dont think I wired something correctly. The problem is with the coil. When I turn the ignition key the starter turns but all it does is crank over and over, no start. I found that the coil wasn't recieving power. If i hard wire a 12v source to the coil it will start right up, but I rather not have to get out of my car and disconnect the coil to shut down the car. I looked at wiring diagrams and everything looks right. I was slightly confused about the tach part and if that might cause it? Might it be the condenser or resistor? BTW, It is a 71 240z Thanks, Adam
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 11 replies
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Here's my problem. If the Z sits for a few days and hasn't been started, when I go to start her up it takes a long time. We're talking about draining the battery long time. Once I do get it running it runs fine and will start right up even if I let it sit for a few hours. Starter fluid doesn't work either. It does to an extent but not the way it should. Using the choke has no effect whatsoever. Basically, it feels and sounds like its not getting a spark. But it will eventually start so I don't think that is the problem. I usually have to use jumper cables and my other car to finally get her going. Once I do get it started I have to feather the linkage and find a spot wher…
Last reply by helopilot, -
- 9 replies
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Can somebody please help me identify what may be some kind of relay on my 72. It is located in the engine compartment, under and to the left of the coil. It has a plug-in to the wiring harness that may or may not be part of the signal/hazard light harness. Thanks! Bill
Last reply by geezer, -
- 1 reply
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Usually the meter on my 78 registers right at 16 for voltage. Lately it has been reading at about 13 to 14, slightly lower. Sometimes after I crank the engine and start driving at night the display lights will be a little dimmer than usual (shows 13 / 14 volts). Then after a few minutes the volts go up a bit and the lights are close to normal. Maybe it's just me but I swear that there is a slight loss of power as well. I'm concerned because usually I get a reading of 16 or so, right at where the meter stops measuring. The alternator was replaced a couple years ago. It is an absolute OEM / Nissan part. Could it be my battery? I need to check how old it is, but what do…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 35 replies
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For the past year or so, I've been trying to track down this antenna switch that fits into the center console blank spot and haven't had any luck. I got the part number for it and tried to order off Nissan.cc's website, but got a notice back a few days later that they were now obsolete. I wanted this exact one because I wouldn't have any other place to mount a switch. I tried Ebay, one went for about the same amount of money I could have bought a new antenna for! Any how, I got talking to Dave about antenna switches and he mentioned that he could make me one out of my blank plate so I sent him it him earlier this week and he got it done the day he got it! Any ho…
Last reply by Zs-ondabrain, -
- 1 reply
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well I am starting a new thread, because I don't think anyone has the same problem I am having. I own a 1975 280z coupe, and the fuel pump will not turn on, I measured the voltage at the fuel pump while cranking, and the voltage was reading 0.03 volts. I'm not that good in electrical problems but i know that this is not correct, I think the pump should read 12 volts while cranking if I am correct. I was wondering if anyone has any solutions for this problem? I am really at a loss right now.
Last reply by Nissanman, -
- 7 replies
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So ill give a short story to defend my stupid mistake, the most embarrassing mistake ever but atleast I have the balls to admit it was me and not "a friend" or "a drunk guy" long shitty day at school, left lights on before my classes, dead battery, ask girlfriend for jump, cross wires in my moronic near-sleep, and smoke. it cranks with cables hooked up properly now. I tried to ghetto rig some new wires with alligator clamps as new fusible links just to see if it would start or not. Im thinking no spark but ill have to check for sure tomorow while im by it and have a screwdriver. Question is, what the hell did I do to it, and how do I get it out of the school parking…
Last reply by livinzlife, -
- 12 replies
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Hello, The headlights on my 1975 280Z does not work. I used a test light to test the three wires that plug onto the headlight and no power. The park lamps turn on. The turn signals don't. The high beams don't work either. I also noticed that at the steering column, there is a black (thin) wire that is not connected anywhere. My guess is that it should connect to the ignition?? I cannot remember the color of the other wire to the ignition, (White and red, or red)... but should the black wire also go to the ignition. Is the open black wire at the steering column the reason the headlight is not working? What can I do to get the headlights working? Please help.
Last reply by EScanlon, -
- 4 replies
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OK, It's been discussed to death but I am having an issue with my tach after the 280zx electronic dizzy conversion on my 72 240z with an auto. I think all is hooked up properly but here we go..... the green wire that was hooked to the ballast risistor is hooked up to the + on the coil. So are both of the b/w wires and the one wire going to the "B" on the module. The - on the coil is hooked up to the "C" on the module. The tach does nothing and was working before. I have read a couple post here and on other boards that say that you need to hook the b/w that is hooked to the coil and that when removed makes the car die to the green. then do these just stay not conne…
Last reply by MikeyZee, -
- 26 replies
- 4.2k views
just got this z and it doesn't run. the previous owner told me he drove to work one day, and we he went to leave, it wouldn't start. so i popped the hood and found this and shook my head in disgust. i think these are relays(question 1) guessing he was trying to bypass something for a temp fix? the one on the left looks a lil toasted next, there are some wires just dangling by the battery
Last reply by beezee,
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