Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
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Anyone out there have a diagram of the early series 1 dash wire harness, from 10/69 to 1/70? Enrique (Escanlon) was kind enough to supply me with many wire diagrams but they were for later years. I am going through the repair process of my harness and would love a diagram to assist in the cause. Thanks, Stephen
Last reply by Duffman, -
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Did anybody know if it have difference in Wiring Harness For Turbo Model??? I plant to change my auto tranny on my 1981 280 turbo for a T5(FS5W71B). I see few Nissan part number but I'm confuse...:ninja: 1) '81-'81 L28ET Auto Air Cond Part#24012-P9002 2) '81-'81 *FED.(2S 4S).(L28E L28ET).MT.F5.J Part#24012-P7906 3) '81-'81 (2S+4S).(L28E+L28ET).MT.J Part#24012-P7900 First I'm in Canada, so it should be a canadian model, but it is a turbo in the same way. The VIN number should be no the same of turbo or Canadian model. My VIN say Turbo. Next in 1981 the turbo model was only auto tranny. In '82-'83 they do some MT turbo. So why on 2) they have MT application o…
Last reply by sblake01, -
'77 280. stock. conducted continuity and voltage checks on steering column combo switch =OK. headlights themselves(taken off car) =OK, fusible links =OK. fuse box fuses, front contacts and rear of fuse box panel =OK. both sockets for the lamps are dead. i do notice that the wires leaving the fuse panel are red with yellow stripe (normal driving lamp), and solid red (hibeam), yet the wires at the socket (pass side) are red with black stripe. is there a splice i'm missing? from the fuse block to the socket there doesn't seem to be anymore splices (or harnesses) in the large main loom going through the firewall. any help is appreciated.
Last reply by zanthus, -
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hey all, just raised the console to troubleshoot why the choke light doesn't come on... bulb is GOOD choke light switch is GOOD i've checked my hard copy FSM's schematic, and don't see the choke light or switch anywhere on the drawing. it seems that the red and black male connector behing the fuse panel never has power. this male connector goes to the female choke light switch. the switch is a simple single loop open when choke lever is down and closed when up. i also see the larger loom of wires that attach to the underside of the fuse panel into the main loom from the passenger side. without the schematic i'm kind of at a loss.. any help would be great ! no…
Last reply by cunniwj, -
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I have gone through two batteries and already replaced the alternator recently but i do not know what else it could be. it will start the first time after i jump it but any other attempts won't crank it. any suggestions? I recently inherited a 280zx from a members of my family as a gift and I do not have much experience with working on cars.
Last reply by an_corp09, -
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I just picked up an underdash harness from Arne ( in beautiful condition!), that I was going to use to replace my early series 1 harness (production 1/70). The part numbers that are still on the replacement harness are 24013-E4650 and E4651, for the engine and rear harness connections. Many of the connectors for the engine and rear harness do not match up. What year harness does this come off of? I tried looking for these numbers off of the microfiche but couldn't find them. Thanks!
Last reply by geezer, -
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i'm comtemplating putting my 76 z together without the a/c equipment as i will not use it. if i can find a heater control dash box without the a/c option, is it fairly straightforward to replace my original a/c heater control unit with the non a/c unit? any input appreciated as i'm not sure what i'm getting into.
Last reply by sblake01, -
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i have a 1972 240z i'm not sure why it's not working but does anyone have a diagram or picture of where the wires go from the back of the tachometer? i checked but no luck... doesn't the tach wire goes to the distributor if i'm not mistaken?
Last reply by 1sick72z, -
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I'm working on a very neglected '72 240z. I took the wipers and motor out recently and found them completely frozen. I disassembled the motor/gear box and cleaned and lubed the shaft so it now turns freely. I reassembled the unit and wanted to bench test it. After some research, I'm applying power on the LR (Power source) terminal of the 5 pin connector and grounding the B (Ground terminal). I then connect the LW (To relay) terminal to the L (Low) terminal and then ground both of them. The motor turns as expected, however, when I remove the connection such that the LW and L terminals aren't grounded, the motor turns backwards from the low and high speed direction. …
Last reply by rv6aflyer, -
- 12 replies
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Hello all, I own a 1978 280z with the stock L28...my fiance has replaced some parts recently and it seems to be getting worse...doesn't make sense to me. Don't get my wrong my fiance knows Z cars like the back of his hand but he's been kinda puzzled and very cold as we have no garage to work on it in. So here's what we did...had an oil leak and replaced the valve cover gasket, had an exhaust leak and replaced the intake/exhaust gasket. It also sounded like a subaru before we started...had a miss and replaced the #5 injector but we put this and all other injectors which are not even a year old into a different intake that we had wanted to try which is from a 280zx. With th…
Last reply by sblake01, -
- 11 replies
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I have found several threads here that address dome light problems but none (that I have found) seem to fit my situation. I have not owned my 1978 280Z very long and am quite a novice at correcting problems. Please bear with me. Here goes...The dome light, at one time, did function on occasion. Now, it will not come on at all. Light bulb is OK and the fuse is OK (I did replace at burnt one). I am getting power to the narrow connector in the light switch but no power to the wide one. When I described this situation to a mechanic he thought it might need to have the whole fixture replaced. I doubted this assessment because it seems to be in quite nice shape. Any thoug…
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
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How can I test the fuel tank sending unit to determine if the gauge is broken or if it is the tank unit? I see a black and a green/white wire at the tank, along with the disconnected leads for the electrical fuel pump, which this car does not appear to have. Is there some way to test it with the wires AT the tank unit? Looks like the unit is on the side of the tank ... at least something is ... I don't see any leads going to the top of the tank, so I assume the tank unit is that "thing" I'm look at where the wires connect on the front side of the tank. It's a 1971 FairladyZ, which is the JDM version of the 240Z. Thank you very much for your advice!
Last reply by Kerrigan,
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