Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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I have a voltmeter that reads pretty stable if the circuit is isolated, but when the ground for the fuel level is connected it starts to be flutter around. Anyone seen something like this before? https://youtube.com/shorts/YMjUsnmcalg?feature=share
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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After my engine bay clean up and battery tray painting jobs I wanted to solve my battery hold down problem. I know the car was meant to have a MT24 battery but I’ve had originally bought a MT34 which is almost identical just about 1 in shorter. I didn’t have a stock hold down and knew it wouldn’t accommodate an MT34 anyway because of where it bolts to the firewall. I had been using a ghetto nylon strap but finally decided to fix this. I purchased a couple adjustable hold downs at my local parts store but they all didn’t work. I then looked on Amazon and found one that works perfectly. Check it out, it was only about $14. It doesn’t come with the fly nuts and hoo…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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Well this is a new one... I was driving this evening (about 40 degrees out) and my temp gauge passed the half mark which I have never seen it do outside of 100+ degree heat with the AC on. I noticed that when I turned off my cabin heater fan, the temp gauge would drop down to where it normally sits almost immediately (a little below the half-way mark) but rose back up past the half mark when I turned the heater on again. I had a long drive so I had a chance to try this over and over again and that is oddly exactly what's going on here. I played with the temperature slider to see if max hot would change the degree of movement on the coolant temp gauge but it li…
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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My 1976 Z has developed a parasitic current draw which drains the battery in a couple of days. I have traced it to the front right fusible link. That's the foreward one next to the fender, and it is brown. My eyes aren't good enough to read the wiring diagrams, so hoping someone can give me a hint on what this link protects. It started around the time I replaced the alternator with a new one from Autozone. I still have the external voltage regulator. Any helpful advice is greatly appreciated. Joe
Last reply by Humbug, -
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I am in the process of hooking many things back up. Any help & explanation where things go is appreciated. I will ask a couple problem areas at a time until i have worked my way area the engine connections remaining to be hooked up. 1. got the slave cylinder in, although rod is a little loose. Can seem to tell where the other end of the spring goes? 2. these hoses I am 95% sure go to the AC unit. Should i leave them alone or block them off (at least until i get a AC system installed) 3. The round connection wire i am pointing at. Any idea what it is or where it goes? 4. there are 2 plugs here. one my pinky is pointing at in bottom of image and oth…
Last reply by Racer X, -
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Hello. I have a 1971 240z... I just replaced the headlight/combo switch because the old one was cracked/not working (which is how it was when I got the car). Now the headlights are working, but the tailights, dash lights, and license plates lights, etc (everything that should come on when the headlights come on), do not work. I'm not seeing any blown fuses... is there any way to tell if this is an issue with the headlight/combo switch that I just put on? anything else to check? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by eastcoastz, -
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Greetings so I finally roll off the car from the “assembly” line. It’s definitely feel “different” than a modern sedan. I’ll save this for other discussion. what I notice is that the speedometer is “bouncing” or “jumping” as I accelerate. I don’t think this is normal. Searched and seem like some suggest to put a resistor about 10k ohm at the coil ignition. Not sure if that is the good idea. Which bring to another question. Seem like there is an extra capacitor around the coil ignition. I cannot seem to be able to find another plug to connect to this. Please see the photo. much appreciate regards
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
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Hello folks, a while back I had issued with low headlights not working and thought the culprit was the battery terminal not firmly secure…. Well, the symptom resurface again. I made sure all terminal are connected firmly. High beams work fine but not low beam. I have the pen test light that connect to a negative and the pen connect to any of the 3 terminal at the head light terminals, seem to have light. My voltmeter is dead as I the battery is dead 😉 can you explain how do I read the diagram below . do I need to connect the red with black stripe to negative to make the low beams work? I’m suspect the high beam lever at the steering w…
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
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I think at some point my right rear turn signal was working fine. It IS NOT working now. At the 4 prong square connector that feeds the light harness at the rear of the car I have power coming from the front of the car. Check with the test light and it blinks fine when its unplugged....Plug it in a NO flashing. However the Hazard lights that seem to run on the same wire work perfectly fine. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to look for a problem. Only think I can think of is there is a separate ground for the Hazards vs the Turn Signal. The front right turn signal works fine, this is just on the rear.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hey Guys, I battled a number fuel injection issues in a previous forum. With that system running right, I now have narrowed down the stumbling idle to something ignition related. The car takes a few seconds to start up, but when it roars to life it holds an idle. However, you can hear a clear miss, and the motor will buck around. I also want to note that I can free rev the car and it seems to smooth out at higher RPM. My first question is about the spark plug wires that I came across. These are/were brand new NGK wires from Zcardepot I installed last winter. The car has probably seen about 30 minutes of idling/revving in a garage since then, while battli…
Last reply by AK260, -
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Hello, I’m a new forum member. I recently picked up a nice 73 240Z that I plan to swap in a later turbo motor. I am new to Datsun and Z, but have been working on vintage cars for a long time! my question is: There are several relays mounted at the passenger side kick panel. I cant locate any of these on the electrical drawing I have. See attached. I have looked at several drawings but they are all almost identical. Am I missing a drawing, or a piece? I’d like to ID these relays and understand how they fit into my cars controls. I also have seen mentioned a “power relay”. Where is this on the car, and in the drawings? What does it do? im looking forward to build…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Getting ready to order a much needed headlight relay harness, parking light harness, and side marker conversion plugs. I want to confirm I have the 9 pin harness plug before ordering. I probably could build my own like others have, but looking for plug-and-play. Where do I look for connector? Near headlight switch on steering column? In front of radiator? My late 73 Z has a 7/73 built date, and does have intermittent wipers. Probably 9 pin, just want to make sure. Thanks, Ken
Last reply by KenFirch,
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