Electrical

I removed by faulty Ammeter/Fuel gauge. Ammeter was fine but the fuel gauge never worked. I changed out the fuel tank float and checked the wiring first, its the fuel gauge. I removed the gauge reconnected battery, car won't start, no power at all. Do you need the ammeter connected? Couldn't fine any topics on how to bench test a fuel gauge.

Hi! I thought I would start a new thread since the old one is now buried with a lot of different info. I have a 1971 240z and the turn signals are not working. Here is what has been done/tested so far: Turn signal switch refurbished/rebuilt Hazard lights work perfectly Confirmed 12v at the green wire coming into the relay/flasher Confirmed that the relay/flasher is working (swapped it with the hazard one to confirm) Relay/Flasher is brand new EF32/EL12 model (also tried LL552 with same result) When holding a test light to each pin on the 6-pin/5-wire connector on the turn signal switch, it lights up when the lever is up or down…

Having a weird issue that I’m having trouble diagnose and hoping someone can give some help/insight. The turn signals are not working… hazards are working just fine. When the hazard switch is off, I get 12v at the green wire going into the flasher relay so that tells me (I believe) that the hazard switch is working. If I plug a test light into the green wire (going into the relay) it lights up normally/bright. If I connect the test light to the white wire it lights up very faintly and sometimes I get a very quiet/light click on the relay. I cannot figure out why the light is so dim/faint on the white wire and subsequently why the turn signa…

Shorted and burned the wire soon as i hooked it up. You can see where it burned out. Can anyone see how i hooked it up wrong? I have the black fusible link right behind the red battery terminal wire. Was i supposed to put it on the other post/nut right next to that one?

I have a few ignition questions please. Here are the first 2. 1. the black wire (with yellow wire). Any idea what it is or where it goes. It was broke off when i bought the car. 2. the other green circle beside the the red wire has a fork that goes somewhere. Should it just go under one of the screws? thanks much

Looking for headlight combo switch diagram. Looked online and can't find anything.

Looking for headlight combo switch diagram. Looked online and can't find anything.

1971 240Z. My headlights, dash lights, and horn all work, but not well. Headlights are dim, dash lights are barely there, and I doubt the horn could be heard from 100 feet. Fuses are OK. Any ideas? Thanks

I have a voltmeter that reads pretty stable if the circuit is isolated, but when the ground for the fuel level is connected it starts to be flutter around. Anyone seen something like this before? https://youtube.com/shorts/YMjUsnmcalg?feature=share

After my engine bay clean up and battery tray painting jobs I wanted to solve my battery hold down problem. I know the car was meant to have a MT24 battery but I’ve had originally bought a MT34 which is almost identical just about 1 in shorter. I didn’t have a stock hold down and knew it wouldn’t accommodate an MT34 anyway because of where it bolts to the firewall. I had been using a ghetto nylon strap but finally decided to fix this. I purchased a couple adjustable hold downs at my local parts store but they all didn’t work. I then looked on Amazon and found one that works perfectly. Check it out, it was only about $14. It doesn’t come with the fly nuts and hoo…

Well this is a new one... I was driving this evening (about 40 degrees out) and my temp gauge passed the half mark which I have never seen it do outside of 100+ degree heat with the AC on. I noticed that when I turned off my cabin heater fan, the temp gauge would drop down to where it normally sits almost immediately (a little below the half-way mark) but rose back up past the half mark when I turned the heater on again. I had a long drive so I had a chance to try this over and over again and that is oddly exactly what's going on here. I played with the temperature slider to see if max hot would change the degree of movement on the coolant temp gauge but it li…

My 1976 Z has developed a parasitic current draw which drains the battery in a couple of days. I have traced it to the front right fusible link. That's the foreward one next to the fender, and it is brown. My eyes aren't good enough to read the wiring diagrams, so hoping someone can give me a hint on what this link protects. It started around the time I replaced the alternator with a new one from Autozone. I still have the external voltage regulator. Any helpful advice is greatly appreciated. Joe