Electrical

Read in this forum that many suffer the ID10-T of the warning "FUEL" light not lid up. My is opposite. It always on even though the fuel gauge is half fuel. Mind you that I haven't drove the car to gas station to get a fill up as I haven't register/insurance yet. I made a few trip when convenience with a gas can of shy of 2 gallons. I must have done that at least 5 times. During my diagnose to fix other problems and driving around the neighborhood to test out brake, lights ... I put in 6 miles on the odometer. I trust the fuel gauge to be in working order and reports correctly. So give or take, at least 7-10 gallons still in the tank given the tank's capacity…

I seem to have some wires left to connect and not sure what goes together. I knew I should have taken a photo before taking apart. Any help would be appreciated.

Question for you guys, is there a master fuse list for the s30s? I found the below image that lists which fuses cover which electrical aspects of the car but only for a 280zx (below image). My voltmeter fuse blew while driving today which apparently shares that circuit with the hazard switch, so I was curious if there was a list like the below for a 1978 280z that would list where else I should look for the short.

After fixing the short causing the fuse link to blow in my 9/70 240Z, I now have brake light issues. I have searched the forums, but have not found this exact issue discussed or anything that I can apply. If someone could help me narrow down the search I would appreciate the assistance. I’m assuming it is a switch issue, but do not want to take them apart again unless it is required. The brake lights work (three bulbs each side) when the brake is depressed. However, if the turn signal or the hazard lights are used, the brake light fuse blows. Turn signal lights, hazards, headlights and driving lights operate correctly before/after the brake light fuse …

Friends ... my 77 208z which I am trying to tune does not crank-up PROPERLY when ignition key is turned. It is sending very little current over to the starter. We have checked using a voltmeter and voltage drops. The starter is fully rebuilt including a new solenoid. When u put a remote ignition switch between the battery and the starter and turn the ignition key the starter works perfectly and cranks up the engine fine. Any suggestions what to look for between the ignition and the starter etc.?

I'm having intermittent issues with starting up. I believe it is related to the ignition startup. I have read all FSM manuals. The only way I can get it to start is by using a jumper wire from the battery to ignition circuit on the fuse box in the pasenger kick panel. Does anyone know what that means?

Hi Guys, Does anyone have any experience with the early RHD 240Z internal fuse box with the long pig tails? I recently pulled my dashboard out to get reskinned, and while i was at it i replaced my old internal x with the long pigtail MSA fuse box (https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5011). I did label connectors as i took them all off, but i am a little confused with the 2 large White (BATT) connectors on the Fusebox. I didn't get a decent photo when i unplugged everything, but i am pretty sure that the old fuse box was hooked up with a single spade connector going into the loom (though this appears non-original/hacked up by PO, and i am not sure what c…

I have installed a set of these bulbs in a 280ZX. The nice thing about them is that they do NOT require relays. Just pair them with some nice H4 housings, and they will work fine. On the 280ZX, we used Hella housings. I had to modify the rubber seal a little, but they worked out nicely. They are on sale at Amazon as a lightning deal for the next few hours for $40. https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Headlight-Bulbs-000LM-6500K/dp/B07TQLK6SH

I recently took my alternator out and put it back in, but the car will no longer fire. I used starter fluid and confirmed that the engine was sparking at the right time but there was no fuel. I used a noid light to confirm that the injectors are receiving no signal. What would be the most common causes of this issue and how would I check them?

Hey. I’ve been having trouble with my battery lately and I decided to have my alternator tested. It came back positive. However, upon bolting it back in, I realized that I did not take a picture of the wiring before it was taken off. I thought I did, but my phone’s camera was delayed and all I got was a blurry shot of the fender. I’ve tried looking for resources to help, but there seems to be next to no information about the wiring of the alternators used on the ‘78 model. I have some stuff figured out, but these last three have me stumped. Could any of you help me out?

I'm reinstalling the dash, and checking wiring, connections, etc. I was not getting power to the ACC or IG busses in the fuse panel. I could hear the ignition relay 'click' with the key in the Acc or ON positions, and I could see power from the fusible link getting to the white-red wire at the bottom of the C6 connector. I pulled the dash back enough to back-probe the ignition relay connector, and confirmed that voltage was getting to the ACC and IGN contacts, but was not passing through when the relays were energized. I removed the ignition relay, and further confirmed by testing that both relays would click, but would not pass power through their contacts. Thi…

Wanting to get the center gauges lighting to work. Replace the bulbs, by removing the center heating console. Still did not work, have found out that its due to the ground on the socket not being connected correctly. When i touch them on the side of the gauge, they light up. But when installed it doesnt light up. Tried bending the ground on the socket back, with limited success. Figured i need to replace the sockets. Does anyone know where to find sockets, or what to look for? Thanks