Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
- 1.7k views
So I thought one of my headlights on my '75 280Z had the high beam out but it turned out to be the turn signal/hi-low switch. After removing the steering column jacket and then the switch assembly it's apparent that the hi-low switch is toast. MSA wants $225 for one of these assemblies and I'm thinking that's a bit much. What the switch does is very simple but the OEM design is really wimpy. I run by the auto-parts store and pick-up a two-position three-pole 20 amp switch. This particular unit lights up blue when in one position. Perfect for high-low beam! I clip the wired connector off the fried switch and crimp on terminals. Now to mount the new switch in a convienent p…
Last reply by 2003z, -
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- 6 replies
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My 72 240 tail light circuit overheats and blows fuses. everything works and I can't find any obvious shorts but it will run for about 15 minutes before popping the fuse. Once that happens the tail lights and the instrument panel lights go out but headlights are still on Anybody have any idea what might be causing it or how to best troubleshoot the problem. Any help would be much appreciated as this has me stumped Thanks
Last reply by bav, -
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I have completed my resto and only 2 items do not work. My heater blower and my power antenne. They both worked before I disassembled the '71 240Z. When I turn the key on, the blower fuse blows. It is a separate fuze for the blower motor. Why does the blower have a separate fuze? I cannot find the power for the antennae. Do you think I somehow got these fuzes/wires mixed up? I looked at the wires and it is the only wire that connects to the fuze. Anyone have any ideas?
Last reply by ZSaint, -
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I tried to search, thinking I'd seen something about this before, but I could be wrong. I finally got my headlights working, but one was obviously installed with the intention of blinding low flying aircraft. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the vertical alignment? The owners manual says "take it to the dealer" and I don't have a factory service manual yet. Your help is appriciated!
Last reply by beandip, -
- 18 replies
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My '73 has a dealer installed A/C setup in it. The hoses look to be in good condition, and the unit itself looks like it's newer than 30+ years old. Trouble is, it's a pain in the arse to work around, it isn't charged, and I'm guessing I'll have to convert it to R134A costing me I don't know how much. If I knew it would work worth a damn if I did get it working then I would suck it up, but I just don't know how well they worked. I'm going to upgrade my alternator in a month or two so that may help offset whtever power drain there is...but is it all worth it?
Last reply by gogriz91, -
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I recently bought a new battery because my old one would go flat after several days of sitting. Since I haven't been using my Z all that much and getting transport to work it sometimes sits for a week or 2. I've had to jump start it so I got a new battery however it appears the problem remains. I don't mind buying a new battery since I think the old one was fairly old anyway. I borrowed a trickle charger off a friend and set it up to charge over night. It didn't reach full overnight and all day yesterday so i disconnected the battery from the car and what do you know the battery was full this morning. I'm thinking it has something to do with my stereo like my amp is stay…
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
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Two nights ago i was just pulling away from my house, and my z lost all power, i could smell what i thought where burning wires, and upon closer inspection, my pump is getting no power at all. This leads me to believe there may have been a short somwhere in the wiring. I can not seem to find any melted wires though. I have all my lights, wipers, spark and starter, but no fuel. Any advice on finding this problem area?
Last reply by Datsun-Fever, -
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anybody seen or used this before? http://www.brighterideas.com/ this site's downloads section has a few demo movies. with all the old, corroded connections on a Z this sounds like an effective diagnostic tool. a little pricey but should save a hell of a lot of time if you're chasing down electrical gremlins. bart
Last reply by TESlite, -
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The A/C stopped working properly in my 1980 280ZX, manufactured May / 80. I swapped a set of vacuum lines under the dash and now it comes on, but it will go off, with NO air flow, then come back on again full force intermittently. Also, the auto temp doesn't really work anymore in this setting. You set it to full A/C or heat. In addition, and PRIOR to this problem, the "recirc" stopped working. Pressing the button does not evoke any change in the air flow. Any help????
Last reply by Michael Chafe, -
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I think my voltage regulator just went, because i can start the car fine, but it lacks power and sometimes backfires, but when i connect jumper cables from another car, it runs perfect, i wanted to know if the voltage regulator is internal on the 78, because i had my battery and alternator tested, and they are both fine....any thoughts?
Last reply by Datsun-Fever, -
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Previous owner has done away with links on 70 model, I am going to install "in line fuse holder", are there just 2 links? (ie starter and alternator?) What amp rating fuse should I use on each? Thanks, Mike :paranoid:
Last reply by MikeZcar, -
- 3 replies
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inside the 280Z steering column, there is a plastic part with a spring metal feeler that touches the horn ring, behind the sterering wheel. It's part of the turnsignal-headlight switch assembly. You may know of this part. The problem is that mine has broken off, and the horn goes on when you don't expect it to. The question is, can you get a replacement for this part with the metal feeler, or can it be repaired? thx
Last reply by sblake01,
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