Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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battery hookup 1 2
by mmagnus- 18 replies
- 4.1k views
I am in the process of running my wiring harness and battery leads. Does anyone have a clear photo of where the positive and negative cable run to. I have looked thru the repair manuals but its not clear. I know this is dumb question but i dont want to screw it up. :stupid:
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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- 1 reply
- 1.8k views
Hi all Have an early 260z and I'm rebuilding a stock intake manifold for it. Hit a snag when it come to the wire leads from the Throttle Opener Control Valve (BY wire not seen in picture) and EGR Control Valve (GY wire seen in picture - yellow arrows) were do they connect to and and what kind of connector is on the raditator side if any. I have a partial wire lead but the radiator side has be chopped. Pictures would be a big help. Thanks Jim 1974 260Z - RLS30-020697 (01/74) Note: Picture is not of my 260 just for illustration purposes. Picture file to big Will upload as soon as I can. Throttle Opener CV and EGR CV wire 2.bmp
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
Little did I ever realize that my initial thread would grow to 5 pages! Member involvement is what it is all about! There has been some talk about 'improving' the original wiring and since the subject has come up I've been giving it some additional thought. I agree that there could be some improvements to the wiring harness, but to what extent? Simple changes, like additional grounds, better wire, fewer contacts/resistance points, new fuse boxes (using automotive blade fuses)...etc., are easy enough to accomplish. They would require little (if any) modifications necessary on the part of the installer/purchaser. That was, and still is, my goal for this project. Other…
Last reply by bpilati, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
hi everyone, i have seen this problem mentioned before where people have a problem where when their car is at idle the electronics dont work. i have this problem aswell, that things dont run off the batteries (e.g. headlights wont turn on again unless you turn off the ignition, blinkers dont blink etc etc...). i wanted to know if there is anyway to fix this without having to do a major car overhaul, i mean is it simply an issue of contacts or is it more complicated? i also have an odd problem where if i push the "Pass" button before the headlights change to high-beam (which takes forever) my "Shift light" on the steering column (after market part) lights up. i'll have to …
Last reply by Tommo560, -
- 13 replies
- 2.1k views
I was driving my 72 240z home yesterday when my tach dropped to zero as did the fuel tank , temp, and oil pressure gauges. Turn signals also packed it in at the same time. I also think that the car started running a little more rough (but maybe that was my imagination as I was peeved at the elect system) Now the car won't start!. Any help in troubleshooting this one would be greatly appreciated
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
- 2 replies
- 1.1k views
hi everyone, the headlights on my car are really dull even on high beem and the are very direction (dont suplly any light out side ways). they are the H4/5 (??) lights but i wanted to know how to get them to be brighter? it is obviously a wireing issue but i have not a clue were to start. i'm not worried about having to chop wires i just want to know how i might be able to fix it. Cheers, Tom.
Last reply by Tommo560, -
- 1 reply
- 1.3k views
I am new to the forum and made another post in the tech area and find out now after "wading" around that I put it in the wrong forum. I have an 83ZX that had an intermittant starting problem (having to turn the key more than once to get it to start) to now not starting at all. All I get is what sounds like a relay click from the inside on the passenger side of the car. The dash lights dim, but the interior lights and low oil pressue light do not. The battery and Starter have both been bench/load tested and are good. I have 12 volts to the large terminal from the battery to the starter, and the ignition side of the distributor in the "on" position. I do not have any volt…
Last reply by seerex, -
- 0 replies
- 1.2k views
I have an EFI setup with a electronic distrbutor. Im not getting any spark from the coil, There is power going right through the primary circuit (in and out of the coil), but no spark. Could it be a problem in the distributor? Im not too familiar with electronic distributors, so not sure what oculd be wrong. I did notice that the reluctor point and the pickups are not evenly spaced i.e its as if the shaft with the reluctor points has been shifted off centre to one side and as the reluctors spin around they run closer to the pickups on one side. Could this be the reason why the coil is not creating spark...any ideas of what I can test ? Cheers Ray EIDT: the whole system w…
Last reply by san_maru_zed, -
- 1 reply
- 1.2k views
Hello everyone, I have been in contact with Klearz about making just the lower rear amber lens for 260z & 280z's and if we can get 5 people interested, the cost is down to $70.00 for the pair. This is alot better then spending $250.00 plus. I am really interested and ready to purchase. Anyone else interested. Skip
Last reply by Alfadog, -
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
Im hooking up an EFI system in a 260z. On my L28E diagram it shows the power for a relay coming from a fusable link. The relay is not physically in the engine bay and I am not going to run a wire out to the physical fusable link. Which wire would be best to wire it to? The white power wire that goes into the voltmeter, or the white/red one which comes out of the voltmeter and goes to my alternator. Does it really matter ? Cheers
Last reply by san_maru_zed, -
- 4 replies
- 1.9k views
I had tried to start my 240 after a few weeks in below freezing temperatures. When cranking it over, (it took some time to start) I noticed that there was a little bit of smoke coming from the battery area. It stopped quickly and the car started. I did a quick visual check and didn't see any problem. The car idled for a while and I then took it out for a quick drive around the area. When I got back, parked in the garage and turned it off. I looked again at the battery and noticed that the top of the battery had water on it. Not a lot, but a few sprinkles. As I inspected closer, I heard a sizzling sound and the side of the battery had expanded on the negative termin…
Last reply by BunkyScott, -
- 2 replies
- 1.6k views
I've got a 73 that I've replaced the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one and I'm looking for an easy and effective automatic shutoff for the electric fuel pump incase of a wreck. My 78 has an oil pressure switch with two prongs on it, one prong goes to the pressure guage and the other one is closed if there is no oil pressure and that shuts off the fuel pump. Any chance I could just changeout the oil pressure switch for one from a 280 and wire it in? I know the 280 has a circuit to bypass the switch for starting and the 240 has the carb bowls that would hold enough for starting but I guess I might need some type of momentary pushbutton to run the fuel pump fo…
Last reply by beandip,
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