Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Have a look at my avatar and you will seethat my Z has bumper-mounted indicators. I remember reading some detailed instructions in another post on how these could be removed and the park lights rewired to also act as indicators. Apparently the wiring already exists to do this...its just unused. Can anyone direct me to this thread? I've tried for ages to find it!
Last reply by NickF, -
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(78 280z) Hey guys. I have a bit of a problem. I hooked up my battery to test it, and make sure it still has juice in it, and to make sure all of my lights are working good. I have nothing but the block, and the crank in the car. all of the stuff is out because im rebuilding it, and inspecting the internals. So i plugged in the battery, and checked to see that the lights worked ok. I turned on the headlights, and the passenger light is very dim. When i switch it to brights it goes out completely, but the drivers light goes bright. I though it was just a worn bulb or something. But then i turned the key to the "ON" position. The little killswitch i rigged up to my fuel pum…
Last reply by gema, -
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Hi Having a question on light bulb sizes on the 260z we're restoring? Have tracked down the following info: Item Wattage Seat Belt Warning 1.5-1.7W Defogger Switch 1.5-1.7W Hazard switch 1.5-1.7W Choke Warning 1.5-1.7W Info from Owner's and shop manual, can't find SAE# anywhere Jim 1974 260Z - RLS30-020697 (01/74)
Last reply by jimbo99, -
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I tried looking for this, but couldnt find anything, so I am asking all you intelligent Z heads for some help. I purchased a 1977 280Z and was told that the battery is going bad, might need to be replaced. I started doing some work to the car(brake lights, headlights, horn wiring was all bad) and noticed that whenever power is supplied to the car(hooking up the battery) the voltage regulator clicked, creating a draw on the system, draining the battery. I traced it down to the yellow wire going from the alternator to the battery and found that if I unplug the white plug from the alternator with 2 pins place like this: --| it shuts off the regulator. the voltage regula…
Last reply by ChrisA, -
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Hi, Searched the archives and found some info with regard to using a tach adapter with the Hi-6 so that the tach will work. Can anyone confirm that this will work? Can anyone confirm that it doesn't work without an adaptor? I recently put an L-28 with about 10.2:1 compression ratio in the car and I am experiencing a little bit of misfire at higher RPM's. I am thinking the Euro distributor with points and 30 year old stock coil need to be upgraded and will fix this, but see no reason to spend a bag of money replacing gauges in the process. If that is the case, I'll drop down to the XR-3000 and be done with it. Garrett
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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OK, here is a good one for yall. The other night I was heading on my first extended road trip in my z and somthing happend completly baffels me. When I turn on my headlights my engine seems to go through cycles of getting fire then not getting fire. This is while the gas is applied at a steady amount, it just runs then dies then picks back up and dies again at even intervals. The battery has plenty of juice to start the car and it seems to run fine without the lights on. Am I lookink at a bad alternator here? If so, I have never had one act like this. FYI i am running a zx dist with a gm modual that has been working fine, so I don't think thats the problem. Thanks, Dan
Last reply by Fun_in_my_z, -
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Hey guys I was wondering if anyone has done this before and could warn me of any problems i might run into. I have the stock FI system. Also I was wondering what plug wires you all used for this setup. I tried to get MSD wires from Tognottis and a few other places but they say MSD has no plugs available for the Z so any input would be great on these inquiries thanks.
Last reply by 280zgod, -
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On a recent trip, the alternator quit charging and the battery went dead. I was towed into a small town, charged the battery and replaced the alt and VR (did it myself). None of the gages worked (except of course the speedo) and the red light in the voltage gage stayed on, but I got back home. Apparently that was not the real problem. In-car tests at Autozone confirm my own tests that the system isn't charging. Removed the alt and VR and had them tested separatly at AZ. Both work fine. I tested the wiring from the alt to the VR for continuity and that seems ok. I tested the fusible links (under the 2 covers on the VR bracket) for continuity and they seem ok also. All fuse…
Last reply by klpete45, -
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Can anyone tell me if this voltage regulator is original in my 3/72 240z? I bought a replacement at Napa thinking it might solve my bouncing tach problem, but it didn't. So i'm guessing this one still works fine. The replacement has the exact same housing and same style of plug. The one that was there to begin with also had an inline fuse on one of the wires. This Napa/Echlin replacement didn't. I replaced my 240z tach (which was shot anyway) with a 280z tach and I keep getting an erratic tach. It sits steady at idle, but if I really put my foot into the gas while driving, the tach will spike then slam back down to zero and start moving around erratically for a sec, th…
Last reply by Inf, -
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I read of people changing the alt. to another type. I once thought of doing that and learned these item I find of interest. The alt. as we know doesnt really produce at idle.The reason is the electric field it generates acts like a clutch on a go cart. The more RPM, the more the resistance. That said if you change the pulley and create resistance at lower rpm you can cause belt slippage, premature wear, power loss of the engine due to the increased resistance. Just installing anything on your car can cause more headaches than relief. Its a fine balance. Not to mention supplying 100amps to a alt wire that was only rated for 60 amps. Its just a battery charger. In most cas…
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hey guys. I just recently went to the radio that is shack, and bought a rocker switch for a fuel pump cutoff. The switch is rated at 30A, and 12v. Will this be good enough to handle the job? It has 3 "prongs" that you attach, or solder connectors to. They say Ground, Load, and Power. So if im right the ground goes to anywhere on the body, the positive goes to power, and the load goes to the positive on the pump? Thanks, as you can see im no expert
Last reply by MrMarcDude, -
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New car, stereo not installed. Everything works fine. Hey, I will plug the stereo back in! Plugged in: Stereo acts funky; Dome, fuel, and tach start to oscillate. All go out, including turn signals. I pull stereo, replace turn signal fuse with a 10 (wants a 20, I only had a ten), all systems back up. I take the stereo (and the car) to a decent audio shop and explain the situation. They bench test the stereo, say its bad (which I believe), so we put in a new deck. Couple miles down the road, all the same systems go down. I put in a 20A thinking that is the difference (I had a 10A) but it blows just the same. Obviously, stereo is interfering with the dash (afte…
Last reply by 4381821,
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