Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 2 replies
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Can somebody explain theheadlight wattage ratings? I see stuff like 50/55 all the time, and I assume those are Watts, but which number means what? thx.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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To start off, it is a '75 280z. It has electric ignition and Fuel injection. Recently, the car would start up great, and would go to 180 degrees, right where it should and the car just shuts off while driving or just sitting after about 5 or 10 minutes of running. I know that it is not a fuel problem, it just dies... No sputtering or anything like that. Then after the car cools down after about 5 or 6 hours, it will start up just like nothing ever happened and then dies 5 to 10 mins later just like before. And will not start back up. It turns over but will not start. I pulled the coil wire off the Distributor and it sparks. I pulled the wire off of the spark plugs…
Last reply by Xargon321, -
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My mother has a 1973 or '74 240z that seems to be having electrical problems. It started on Friday when she was driving it and the radio kept turning on and off, but everything else worked properly. Then yesterday when she tried to start it she said the engine started to turn over and then stopped, and none of the electrical stuff worked. Today I tried to jump start it so I connected it to my car, and tried the headlights and some of the other electrical stuff and everything worked, so I tried to start it up, there was a click, and everything turned off. Now none of the electrical stuff works, but the battery in my car is fine. I checked the fuses in the console, as well …
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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Okay...have a few issues with my blower motor. My problem is that the blower does not turn on when the blower switch is clicked in any direction. The off button works very well. Now...when I tap the blower to a battery, it turns on, and I just replaced the resistance, so those two are ruled out. Now HERE's an idea...I think it's connected wrong. Here's what catches my attention... 1. The big white connectors are a bit silly. The one from the wiring harness has 6 wires going into it, and the one from the blower resistor only has four. What gives? (Am I plugging the wrong two connectors together?) 2. The blower resistance is wired to the top of the blower moto…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Hell, I found my 240Z's rear deck harness is something funny. For the gas tank wires,which hole does it go into? I think my 240Z is probably wrong.The harness should take another hole next to the previous one. Please let me know which hole your Z takes? kats
Last reply by kats, -
- 27 replies
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I believe my the part of the combination switch that gives power to the dash lighting, parkers, tail lights etc is buggered! It was flashing on and off over bumps for some time, but after doing lots of rewiring today (other problems), they don't work at all. I'm pretty certain I didn't stuff something up while working on it today, will check that in the morning. Anyhow, my service manual says the combination switch isn't servicable at all. Just wondering if it is actually possible to pull the thing appart and fix it? Or am I just going to have to replace it? If replacement is the only option I think I'll just have to wire it into a seperate switch for now.
Last reply by gundee, -
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I know I've had a few discussions with different members about rewiring the Zcar. I just finished with a Painless wiring harness and it works great. My application is a ::cough:: bit out of the 'stock' application, but I think it would work great if you wanted to keep it stock. The idea for this car is that I can drive it to the track, but that's about it. If you are curious about rewiring or are going to do it, then I would definately go for a painless kit. They have very good tech support as well. Check out my gallery for some photos of the install. The little center consol that I fabricated is ignition switch/button, turn signals, lights and one switch that isn't bein…
Last reply by malder, -
Got a 73`Z. When I turn the ignition key from the lock position the engine turns over and starts. I then turn it back to the lock position. To turn it off I turn quickly to off. The actual start position on the switch doe`s nothing! Bought another switch, same situation. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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I found a thread that gave this information What I need to know is I have a stock L24 with an E31 head. I have blow-by on cyl 5, and my compression is as follows from cyl 1 to 6: 120, 120, 120, 120, 40, 120. My rear carb will not tune quite right, it runs rich all the time (probably needs rebuilt) but the front carb is in good tune. I just need a 'short term' solution here since I'll be replacing the engine this year (I hope). What plug would be best for my car? The plugs always seem to foul so I will end up replacing them on a regular basis after doing some driving then letting it sit for a while, or doing a lot of driving. So really expensive plugs, like $8/eac…
Last reply by jeffs73z, -
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Here is an instrument panel plate that I made with a friends laser engraving machine. It is the first one and we're trying it out to see how it holds up. For now I just used a simple graphic layout, basic colors, a little personal touch for fun and well check it out. It's not so much for the restoration type of person, but rather custom. Craig
Last reply by Chino 240Z, -
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I just got my car today. The dome light does not function. According to the owners manual it should be spring loaded on one side? If you push up on it, it just flops around. How do I go about fixing it?
Last reply by seerex, -
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I need to know the cause of this symptom. Electrical gurus, have at it! As you may already know, the dreaded 3rd fuse down on the right was blowing. I have isolated the short to the front side markers. However, I have reason to believe it is something other than the lamps themselves. Here's what I found tonight when I took my trusty voltmeter into the garage. The reading on the FR side marker fluctuates between 0 and 10 volts. By fluctuates, I mean jumps every half a second. The reading on the FL side marker fluctuates between 0 and -10 volts. Negative volts? This is where I get confused. Now, as previously stated, these lamps appear to be "hard-wired" into the…
Last reply by gema,
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