Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Hi all, I just installed a Crane ignition system (optical pickup and coil). Problem is the tach now doesn't work. The two wires from the tach are now tied together (per Cranes instructions). Has anyone installed this system before and if so, how did you deal with the tach issue?
Last reply by billcapp, -
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The tach in my '73 was working intermittently. Sometimes I would have to tap on the front of the gauge to wake it up, but now it doesn't move at all. All the wires at the coil are connected and look good. The last time it worked it died after reaching 2500 rpms . Is it dead? Thanks!
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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I am getting hot fuses, to the point of melting the lead out of the fuse box... AND last week the car started to sputter and backfire like it was loosing spark, barely getting it home. I hate electircal. The fuses seem to fit tight into the clips so I do not think there is resistance there.... Gonna tackle this on the weekend so any info would be appreciated, It's mainly the lighting fuses but I think that there is one more on the right side of the box as well. Thanks all! Have a great day! ~Brian
Last reply by justaZcarguy, -
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I just bought the Universal 18 circuit non GM keyed Painless Wiring kit for my 260z. Is there anybody here that has installed one of these kits in their Z? Before i jump in and start ripping out wiring i was wondering if i can get some tips. Thanks for any help.
Last reply by malder, -
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Hi guys...I've been browsing these forums for about a week now, and you all seem like a very helpful bunch. As for an introduction, my name is Nate, and I'm your friendly neighborhood Parts clerk (Nissan dealership). I just started last week, so don't expect me to know everything...yet. Now, down to business. I just bought a 1972 Datsun 240z with full intentions of restoring it. First thing I need to do is make it safe...meaning I need to get the lights and heater working. Here's what I've found/done so far. 1. Upon picking up the car, nothing worked except the headlamps and taillights (out of four, three came on). 2. Once we got it home, I replaced all bulbs in t…
Last reply by gema, -
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Hazards work and both indicator arrow lights on the dash flash. Rear turn signals work, however the fronts don't 995 of the time. I just tried it and one of the fronts worked. Tried it again and it stopped working. Flasher unit makes the standard clicking noise, but no indicator arrow lights on the dash. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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Would someone be able to tell me if the 71 Z lever is the same as the 73 or 72 lever? Thanx in advance.
Last reply by jeffs73z, -
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Hello,everyone I got a NOS rear glass with defroster through japanese auction. My original one did not work,two electric terminals were deteriorated and almost broken off. New one was installed recently,and today I have to drove in the rain,I had a oppotunity to test my defroster. It did work,I am very happy with it but it was so slow to defrost.I was about to reglet my spending a lot of money for it. Roughly 10 minutes after switch it on,gradualy began to defrost. How do every one do with this defroster? Thanks kats
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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73 240Z: I just got the driving lights working for the first time. They are powered directly from the battery (separate in-line fuse) and activited by a relay. I noticed that when they are on, the ammeter shows a constant state of charging that returns to neutral as soon as I turn them off. This makes sense as the ammeter doesn't know the difference between current charging the battery and current flowing into the lights. So my question is two fold: - anyone run like this for a long period to have some experience that this won't bother the proper charging of the battery? - if I decide to rewire from the battery to some other point "before the ammeter", where should tha…
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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well i just put a Radio in my car and got it all together and looking good, now my turn signals dont work, hazards do, headlights high and low beam work, changed the flasher unit with another one and still no dice, it worked the night before when i put it in the garage.....
Last reply by Xargon321, -
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this problem seems to come and go but my battery isn't keeping a constant current running through the car, when I have the car off and the key off, the battery gauge shows no current, the car will start up and the gauge will work but nothing will work if the car isn't on, anyone seen something like this before? btw the battery and alternator have been replaced recently
Last reply by mushupork5, -
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Tonight I'm on the soap box.I wish to offer a few tips.1st,when you buy one of those kits that have the elec.connectors they come with the "tool" to do the job.It offers a screw cutting tool and a color code so you do it right(yeah).Those are crap!Notice they have no tooth to crimp as factory. Compare yours to what was.Any electric supply will sell a proper crimp tool.Its worth it.The other is just short of a plier smash.The problem of my new molex(those white multi-wire plugs)doesn't fit the new.We never want to cut a factory harness unless we know it is ABSOLUTELY the problem.I have made crossovers by using the single crimps that mate to the molex individual connectors.…
Last reply by Daniel,
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