Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
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If the right signal is not working but the left is would this be a fuse, a bulb, or a wire problem? It does not blink on the dash. I remember seeing something that may have been s tiny bit of smoke from the left side of the steering column several weeks ago when I had used the turn signals. Maybe a wire has melted. If this is the case are the signal switched the same from '70 on up at least to '73? I have a '70 car that this is not working in and a '73 parts car I can pull the signal switch from. On this note are the light/wiper combo switches the same also?
Last reply by Daniel, -
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- 5 replies
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Hi all, I'm in the middle of replacing my 240z tach with a 280z one, I tried starting my car without the tacho plugged in at all, and the car wouldn't idle, although it would turn over.. I'm running a haltech ecu, so I thought the problem with needing the 'loop' through the 240z tach wouldn't be an issue? Otherwise its just a coincidence that something else has happened, or I did something whilst removing the tach.. Why didn't I try to start the car BEFORE removing the tach to check everything was ok:stupid: please help its drivin me mad!
Last reply by philUK, -
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Hey all I just swapped my l26 out for a warm l24, yesterday actually, and after taking detailed photos of the starter and alternator nothing bloody well works! i believe i have it all wired the right way i can't even get my stero to be 'off' (ie power by remote wire to keep and show time) lights dont work, indicators... Let alone the bloody starter! could someone please tell me lots of good stuff! [starter] [solenoid I have the positive lead from the battery on the outer terminal, on the inner all i have is the lead coming direct from the starter to the solenoid. and a little black wire from who knows where.. that i'm positive (no pun intended) came off the inner termin…
Last reply by Walkingpig, -
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Got a good one for everyone. When running the car just dies. I have power to everything but the engine. The starter will turn, but no fire in the engine. New distributor cap, and tested the wiring from the coil forward. Thoughts? Thanks. Tim.
Last reply by taggedd, -
I have a 73 340Z with a "new" fuse box. The previous owner had it replaced, but unfortunately one of the connections gets hot enough to burn a finger. I tried taking the box out and tapping the rivet/crimp with a 3/8" socket extension underneath and a drift on top, and it helped some, but it's still too hot for me to feel good about it. How have others dealt with this kind of problem? The box is othewise in great shape (it should be - it looks brand new and from the receipts, it looks like he paid ~$200 - ouch!) Thanks, Daniel
Last reply by Darrel, -
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Whats the color code on the radio wiring harness?
Last reply by Xargon321, -
- 9 replies
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OK heres how my new 240z is doing electrically none of the turn signals work, no clicking or anything the hazards work front and rear, except for the side markers front and rear the headlights only seem to work on high when the headlights are on, the brake lights dont come on like they're supposed to. Any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by zero, -
- 7 replies
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Ok well tonight I wanted to drive the car for the first time in a month probably. Last time I had a problem it was with the module on the distrubtor and caused all sorts of headaches.(electronic distributor). Today i cranked her over took a few more turns than normal and coughed to life revving pretty hard. Then she started spluttering and i was tapping the throttle and keeping her going I was pulling out the drive and it started to get a bit worse then i smelt a fuel like smell decided nup not going anywhere popped the hood and found fuel leaking where the hose connects to the fuel pump(mechanical). Fine that's a leaky hose most likely, that's not it look at the distr…
Last reply by Gav240z, -
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I am upgrading my race car from a 2 pole to a 4 pole kill-switch. The switch comes with diagrams for a one wire or a field alternator style of installation. Difference being that one breaks the connection from the field wire to the positive pole of the battery with its auxiliary terminals while the charge wire is interrupted by the break in the main fuse block. The other interrupts the charge wire to positive pole only and omits the field wire. Am I missing out and this is just showing me how two different alternators will be wired? It would appear if this is the case that I need the field wire style. Am I right? There are two diagrams but NO instructions or explanations …
Last reply by beandip, -
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I just got my old Z back from my father. YEAH. It has one small problem that I need to work out. The power windows don't seem to work. My Chilton's auto manual shows the relay on the passenger side on by the outside panel by the passenger's feet. All that I find there is the fuse box. Any thoughts on what might be causing the problem? There seems to be no power going to the windows at all. Tim.
Last reply by taggedd, -
Plug wires? 1 2
by Hauserdaddy- 16 replies
- 2.7k views
Has anyone used the Nascar (borg warner) plug wires from Checker for their Z? I can order a better known brand online but it would sure be convenient if I could just grab a set up the street when I am picking up spark plugs. Any thoughts/opinions would be great! They also have an autolite set that will fit. 72 240Z stock with NGK BPR6ES plugs.
Last reply by ZmeFly, -
- 9 replies
- 2.6k views
when I turn the ignition key from OFF to Lock the car basically starts back up. It's like it just doesn't ever turn off.... what could be causing this?
Last reply by Bambikiller240,
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