Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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The first pic I am uploading in this message is the back of my US tail light. There's four bulbs there, starting from top left corner here are the wire colors: Bulb 1: Grn/Wht, Grn, Blk Bulb 2: (top right): Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 3: (bottom right): Red/Blk, Blk Bulb 4: (bottom left): Grn, Blk In the reply I am going to post the pic of the backside of a Japanese tail light. It is wired differently and has an extra (Parking) light in the top row where the US tail light has a plug stamped with the letter "P". So five bulbs total and starting from top left corner here are the wire colors: Bulb 1: Grn/Yel, Grn/Wht, Blk Bulb 2: (parking): Grn/Blu, Blk Bulb 3: Grn/Yel, Grn/W…
Last reply by Alan Pugh, -
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For those of you with fried fuse boxes, and lots of money to spend, I was browsing around on MSA's site, and they are advertising a new, replacement, reengineered, "modern" fuse box replacement for 240Z's for $199. Supposedly has the stock connectors, correct wire colors, and either short or long pigtails. FYI.
Last reply by Marty Rogan, -
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Being I'm eliminating things one by one, and plugs were one of those things, I remember my brother's old dismantled 2.8L Supra engine was in the garage and I thought well $^!#, that's got plugs, being I only need them for a bit of a test for the time being I'll give it a go if they match up. They're actually NGK BPR4ES, will these be too hot to run in my L24 for exended periods of time or be OK? The plugs that were in there were BP5ES plugs, which as I understand it is one step hotter than factory recommendation, so, the 4's will make it two steps hotter, but I don't know, is that still within limits? Again, any help appreciated.
Last reply by kyteler, -
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I need to wire a 5 prong bosch type relay to my aftermarket fuel pump. The relay is a 12V 30/40A It looks like I should have: 1 wire to the + 1 wire to the - 1 wire to the fuel pump and 2 wires to the ignition But what wire goes where? The relay has a: 30 85 86 87 87a What should I connect to what? Thanks.
Last reply by 0100, -
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So I got an Exide battery from kragens about 9 months ago and my Z ran just fine (except for starter problems). My tranny went out and I decided to do a bunch of stuff so the battery has been sitting on a shelf for about 6 months. I finally have my car back on the road and the battery just needed to be charged. Now however I'm getting erratic behavior. Sometimes the car will crank just fine. Other times it cranks really really slow like the battery is almost dead, but it still starts if I'm persistent. Is there a new Interstate battery in my near future? Thanks
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
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Well over the weekend I joined the flakey headlight club.It started with "that smell".Upon inspection I found the hi/low switch was bad.At the rear of the switch where the wires attach it was burnt on the hi side.I found that the plastic housing has four slots in it that accept the fiber type piece that holds the contacts.One of the feet that goes in the slot had broken.This allowed the hi contact to push away.Thus burning.I never use low beams and it never bothers other drivers.That contact was nice and clean.I reinstalled the switch minus the contact board to give the signal arm the correct feel and wired my hi beams straight to the wire that did supply to the switch.Pe…
Last reply by Daniel, -
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Hey-- Been having a bit of power fluctuation and high reading amp gauge. I pulled the voltage regulator, but I can't see any adjustment screws (like the stock unit in the manual). Is there some sort of adjustment? All the solders look good, and have continuity. The first and second pins have continuity with each other, as do the third, fourth, and sixth. The fifth pin has continuity with both of the first systems when you press the two springs down, and alternates between them depending on which spring goes down, so all the connections seem good. Could the resistor be bad? What is its rating? I'm going to try cleaning off the pins and seeing if that helps, perhaps a…
Last reply by santamaus, -
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Help! I cannot find this terminal end anywhere. This is the 1/4'' spade style male terminal for insertion into the Molex (?) Moldex (?) connection blocks, used by Nissan for many years. I'll buy in bulk if a must, but a hundred would more than fill my needs.
Last reply by Victor Laury, -
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well this happened 2 times to my car. once i was driving and when while i was parking smoke and flames were coming out of the steering column...some of the wires that connect to the light switch and signal light switch were melted and the switch got fried in the process. now my headlights, tailights, and side marker lights do not work but when i signal the right signal works front and back and the left rear signal works but not the front. i continued to drive the car for a couple weeks after this happened without fixing it yet.bad idea i know. after this i noticed everytime i stepped on the gas while the vent fan was blowing the fan would speed up as well. and when i let …
Last reply by Downfall, -
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Working on a biddies Z where his signals just stopped working all together. One day both blinked fine. Next day, nothing. No solid light or anything. Just move the wand and no signals. I checked and all the bulbs appear to be fine. I had a Beretta that did this once and I swapped out the signal thingie (technical name ya know) under the dash and they worked after that. Any thoughts?
Last reply by billcapp, -
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Yesterday I finally decide to replace my alternator I go to get a new one and talkin to the guy he says its the regulator, so I buy the regulator, get gome and start to install it and notice the wires are cut, 2 are bypassed. He had been running it straight with no regulator! So Im thinking mebbe he had replaced the alternator with one with an internal regulator so I take the alternator up and the guy says its correct and we decide to test it. IT WAS PUTTING OUT 30 VOLTS! No wonder it was boiling batteries. Anyways, while takin everything apart I notice that the bottom bolt for the alternator is like 1/16 in diameter so I need to replace it but the thing that bugs me is t…
Last reply by nutxo, -
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My 240 just came out of the shop after I had a major electrical malfunction. All told, the dash wiring harness, alternator, voltage regulator, battery, and ampmeter/fuel gauge were replaced, along with other misc parts. I noticed as I was driving it home, that the needle on the amp gauge was jumping around a lot, from 0 in the middle to almost +60 on the right. It didn't sit still very much at all. Also, I noticed that my old amp gauge (which fried) went from -45 to +45, and the replacement that I bought from ZBarn goes from -60 to +60. Is that a problem, and what might be causing my needle to be so jumpy?
Last reply by LanceM,
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