Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
I just bought a '78 280z 2+2. The "charging" light stays on when it's running. Is this bad? I don't have an owner's manual. I couldn't see that the light was on, or didn't notice, in the daylight. When I got home to the garage is when I saw it. The previous owner said the alternator had gone bad and replaced it with another used one that he said was working. The battery was beyond saving so he put a brand new one in it. So I was able to get home okay but I don't want to wreck a new battery if this alternator is also bad. I don't know if it's related but it also has starting problems. Turn the key and dash lights and radio light up, but then turn it to start and nothing. I…
Last reply by pig4bill, -
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Hi guys, My old battery was boiling out acid. It's been replaced with a new one and the same thing is happening. My volt meter is also jumping and the lights brighten up when i rev the car. Im now looking at the VR. It doesn't look like the original type which was mechanical. It's the solid state type as shown on the attached pic. I can't see any fried wires or corrosion (unless it's right inside) so im assuming the vr is ok. But i would like to do a test but i don't have a clue where to start. Can you guys please give me some guideline on how to test these, there's a black, green, red, blue, white, and yellow wires. The Haynes manual is pretty much no help because they …
Last reply by Bizza, -
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take a look at the picture..... I need tips, info, articles, recommended manuals, diagrams...hell, voodoo if it'll work. you would judge correctly in thinking I'm new at this...well, at least in trying to refresh a car. I'm getting the engine to turn over only by an over-ride switch straight from the battery to the starter, so... anyway, you can't see it in the picture, but a couple wires are cut. also, mentally remove anything that runs an EFI and replace it with carburetor. thanks in advance, wes
Last reply by shyfty, -
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Well the last time I drove the Z (70 240Z) the speedo went spastic on me. When you tromp the gas, the needle bounces wildly up and down. Once you get to a cruising speed it settles down some and bounces in about a 10 MPH span. Any ideas on this one? TIA, Marty
Last reply by carguyinok, -
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“The amount of current flowing in a circuit made up of pure resistances is directly proportional to the electromotive forces impressed on the circuit and inversely proportional to the total resistance of the circuit.â€� So which one of you electrikiti minded people can simply explain ohms law to a simpleton (read: me)? What is the relationship of the resistance to the circuit? Reason I ask is my leads. I noticed last Tuesday night that they were arching and after having a chat to a mechanic today he told me to check them with a multimeter. Wanting to learn something instead of open my wallet for others I went to buy one and borrowed a newish set of leads off my friend …
Last reply by publisher, -
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Hi all, The good news is I finally purchased a new (to me) '72 240Z and have her at home. The bad news is I can't drive her at night because the 20AMP fuse to the tail-lights (third fuse from the bottom on the right hand side in the fuse box.) burns out after about 3 secs once I turn the head-light combo switch to the #1 or #2 position. I knew about this problem when I bought the car but figured it was just a bad switch. Nope. I've replaced it and that didn't help. I'm not an electrical expert so I'm hoping someone on this forum can point me in the right direction. Here's what I know. This fuse has a green-white (gw) wire running to it. It feeds the tail-lights, r…
Last reply by Daniel, -
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Has anyone had good luck replacing the clock from a 72 Z with a clock from a newer vehicle or an aftermarket source ?
Last reply by owenk, -
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Well i finally got a replacement amp meter and now i'm trying to figure out why the it is always getting power... as soon as i hook up the battery the meter goes all the way to the right... does anyone have an idea on what is wrong?
Last reply by Zedrally, -
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Ok, hooked up the petronix and it worked. Nice. My question is.... If I buy the flame thrower coil do I have to still use the Ballist Resistor or do I or can I remove it? If I do remove it do I simply move the wires from the ballist resistor over to the coil? Thank you in advance for the help.
Last reply by Alfadog, -
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I know. It just happened. I didn't have any side, marker or tail lights, so I replaced the blown fuse. Turned on the switch and (poof) smoke and the smell of phenolic burning, switched off, but the damage was done, melted through on the inboard fuse post. I'm going to have to jury rig until I can locate a good fuse block and cover for a '70 240Z.
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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I was hoping someone could tell me the name of the type of connector that is used on the fuel level sending unit. They have been cut off on my 240z and the previous owner wrapped the wires on the unit. I suppose I have a second question, what size of connector do I go I get, can I simply measure the diameters of the post I am going to connect them to? Tanks.
Last reply by tanny, -
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I have a '72 240Z with a 280Z motor in it. It has a breaker-less distributor installed by a "professional" shop. The tach doesn't work properly. With the first one, the needle went flying all over the place, then quit. Went to a junk yard and got a replacement and this one only reads between 0 and around 500 when I'm revving to about 4500. I called the shop to confirm that they hooked it up correctly and they assured me that they were the professionals and knew what they were doing and I just happened to get two bad tachs. Is there a special way to wire a '72 tach when you are using a newer distributor ? How can I tell what year distributor it is ? I think it is a …
Last reply by mjyikes,
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