Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I have a 76 280(currently doing the bodywork &paint) and the temp/oil & the fuel gauges do not work,however the volt gauge does work,I wondered if this was a common problem or if anyone could tell me a good place to start tracing the problem
Last reply by Daniel, -
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- 2 replies
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I went to install the petronix ignitor I bought while ago and I found rhat the wires don't make it to the coil. It appears that if I rotated the distributor 180 degrees the wires would reach fine. I have little knowledge of distibutors unfortunately and before I go and take it off and move it around I want find a few things out. can I take it out and rotate it 180 degrees or does it have to sit in there the way that it is. And if I can do this should I expect to have to adjust the timing or os there anything I should keep in mind when I do this? Thanx in advance this may save me a headache.
Last reply by bart, -
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Just an idea - is the input signal to the tach / rev counter simply a 12v square wave? The reason I'm asking is because at present my tach is not attached, which is quite annoying! The Haltech E6K engine management system provides a 5v square wave from its tacho output (as far as I am aware), so I'm thinking it may just be possible to boost this signal and use the standard tacho? I have a 1971 240z btw, HS30-00829 If not it looks like having to go the autometer route...
Last reply by philUK, -
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I'm having basically the same problem as in this thread. Since I've had the car (about 2 months and loving it) the tach has just gone to about 4K and stayed there whenever the car was on. Today I decided to try to figure out what was wrong with the tach and took it apart. I found that the wiring had been fooled with because there was 2 white wires from the little harness that were just looped back on eachother (they had been cut before) and then on the yellow wire someone soldered on some sort of variable resistor or limiter(it had a little dial and when it is turned, the tach goes higher or lower). All that to say - I'm not that interested in keeping the origional tach,…
Last reply by malder, -
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Is there a way to 'revitalize' a battery? Two batteries came in with these last two Z's I bought. Both had the dots punched out showing a sold date of early 2002. Both cars have been parked for 6 months. Both are high-quality brands (wet cell). When you plug them into the charger, the needle just goes instantly to 0 and just stays there, which usually indicates a shot battery. Is there a way to bring these back to life somehow? Both are very clean and full of fluid and don't have any swollen sides or anything (and the weather here never gets near freezing either). Any hope? steve77
Last reply by Daniel, -
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The latest junker I bought has this big black box for a coil. Mallory Voltmaster Mark II model 28675. I visited some sites which sell Mallory and found this particular model and it says 'for points ignition systems only'. If anyone's interested, here's the address for the PDF (so I couldn't copy and paste the info here): http://www.mrgasket.com/pdf/CoilsM.pdf It says not to use on (a particular) HEI, but I assume it means not to use on ANY EI? Why is this? Not dealing witht he older cars too much, I didn't realize there were two different typse of coils. What would happen if I used this coil on a EI motor? steve77
Last reply by Zvoiture, -
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There is a black ground wire coming out of the harness where the fusible link come out and attaches to the starter. This ground wire connects to the fender well across from the starter. My question is what is this ground wire grounding? Thanks in advance for the help
Last reply by Daniel, -
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I'm confused on how to hook my batter up. Maybe someone could give me some pointers. I have a photo attached.
Last reply by sawilliams, -
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i have a RAC maxi tune meter i can measure points ,dwell ,tach, amps and volts with. its been awhile and i forgot which wires go where and i am hoping someone is familiar with this instrument. ----it has a positive and negative lead with big clips , which im assuming go to the battery. it also has a big clip lead in a big yellew rubber cone. all 3 of these wires go into the instrument in one cluster. then the other cluster going into the instrument are one black and one red wire connect together by a flat metal bar with some type of attachment screw on the end. i know how to use the instrument------i just spaced on the hookups . help would be greatly appreciated. any tim…
Last reply by sawilliams, -
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before I open up my dash and install my Kenwood Head Unit... is there an Harness I can buy for an easily install... or should I cut and slice the wires and stuff? Or should I have a professional install them? I have installed Stereo's in two different Sentra's but they had harness's at the store...
Last reply by CNIXZGO, -
- 2 replies
- 1.3k views
I'd been having problems with my ignition wire to the starter on my 73 240z burning up, i replaced the wire and checked all the connections and everything looked fine. when i had it running i heard a noise in my amp meter and the wire burned again. i have since replaced the starter since i think it may have cause the problem. is there any other reason this may have happened. also my amp meter broke and now i need a new one.
Last reply by Nizodd, -
- 11 replies
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I found this interesting link online... it was done to an Honda Civic but i figured since many Z owners like the look and don't want to spend the money with Hella or anythign like that.... here is an interesting HOW TO site for making your own Make your own Angle Eyes
Last reply by EScanlon,
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