Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Tempted on removing, cleaning and reinstalling hitachi original distributor on my 240z 1 2 3 4
by jalexquijano- 4 followers
- 43 replies
- 6.4k views
The other day i found some spare gaskets and ring that are supposed to be installed before the distributor is inserted in the key shaft. However, i remember that last time i did that i had to call a mechanic because when i installed the distributor back the engine did not crank. https://zcardepot.com/distributor-installation-kit-gasket-hardware-240z-260z-280z.html Is this so complicated? I thought it was a simple plug and play procedure?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 871 views
Any recommendations on the correct stock starter for a 1973 240z...? Thanks...Ryals
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 902 views
I would like to temporarily remove the relay panel on my 260Z in order to access the seatbelt interlock unit. I found two screws on the lower part of the relay panel into the kick panel and removed them. The panel came loose, but apparently has another screw higher up which I can't seem to get to. Could it be under the intermittent wiper relay? Does anyone know how to get to this screw, or have a picture of the relay panel removed?
Last reply by Freez74, -
- 2 followers
- 1 reply
- 613 views
Ever since I bought my 260z my tach has decided it has never wanted to work. Being that my car is an auto, it hasn't been too much trouble until now. However, a recent decision to attempt a manual swap and my general annoyance growing, I have decided to fix it. The issue initially seemed to be a connection issue, as the tachometer would occasionally come back to life mid drive and decide to work perfectly for me, apparently at random times. I took the dash off, cleaned all the tachometer connections, and reassembled everything. While the tach was out I tried my best to bench test it, with various methods, and couldn't seem to find a way that worked. The tach still w…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 followers
- 22 replies
- 14.8k views
So my ’71 240z has the dreaded yet common parking circuit contact burn hole. I see that I can get MSA’s updated fuse box for $200 or get a used good condition box with a cover for $100 - $140 shipped. For those of you with the MSA fuse box, does the clear fuse cover still fit over it? So far the few reviews I have seen on the box’s functionality and benefits are very good. Can anyone else speak to the MSA box? I have also seen the Blue Sea ST line of boxes that look very nice and are very affordable. If I went that route I know I would have to relocate the fuse box. I am thinking either making a custom glove box liner to mount the box or just putting it on th…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 4 followers
- 17 replies
- 2.8k views
Hi, I've been through some forums before posting this. Got a 77 Z, one day had to activate hazard signal because of very slow traffic... I press the button and instead of activating the signlas i got a strange noise "brzz" and saw the battery indicator going down to "0". Right after i also noticed the loss of blinkers, but don't know how or why, they came back to life by themselves. Status is that: When i activate the hazard, no signal and hazard are not working. When i activate blinkers, they both work, but if i press the hazard signal, they will stop working. Oh, my battery signla is still akward, sometimes showing full battery, s…
Last reply by Labubre, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
77 Z Since i own my car, i saw from time to time battery indicator going down to "zero" and coming back alone above 12V. This while driving. But i was able to observe following routine: I enter in the car, Indicator shows 12V Put key and turn ignition to "ON" position and then...bye bye! Indicator shows "0" I would drive few miles then notice suddenly that it indicating 12V again. Engine still on i've been trying to activate different instruments to see if they were having an effect on battery indicator value. The only 2 that have effects are: - ventilation: if i activate the fan, indicator goes to "0" and then the indicator will never come b…
Last reply by Labubre, -
- 3 followers
- 10 replies
- 1.4k views
Please help electrical gurus. ‘73 240Z. Found two cut off wires on body near the middle of trans. Both yellow, no stripe codes. I though they could be the reverse lamp switch, but that’s wired up & working. i pulled on the wires and they’re male spade connectors on the side that were cut (not by me obv). Leaving behind two factory female spade connectors in plastic tubes. Any idea? I couldn’t find anything on the wiring diagram that made sense to me. Thanks in advance. -R
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 873 views
The oil pressure/water temp gauge on my early '71 240Z no longer works. I've replaced sensors and done all the usual tests for meter deflection (shorting against a ground) and it's kaput; I guess the gauge's voltage regulator. I have purchased a used replacement gauge on ebay that the seller listed as "working". Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can check out the replacement gauge before I start tearing the dashboard apart. I'd hate to go through all the aggravation of installing a broken gauge. Thanks
Last reply by Firepower, -
- 6 followers
- 20 replies
- 2.3k views
Quick question for you folks with a volt (not amp) meter. What does your guys' volt gauge read when its sitting off in the garage? Mine is sitting at a smidge over 12v - is that correct? It seems lower than I remember, but I could be wrong.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 6 followers
- 25 replies
- 7.9k views
Just wondering if anyone's using the new 123igntion distributor on an L24 that you can tune via Blue Tooth? I'm running triple Weber 40s with an E88 head in my 240Z for street and track events. Timing's always been a bit of an issue. Seems like this would be a game-changer if it actually works as well as I think it could. Thanks for your input.
Last reply by Firepower, -
- 1 follower
- 16 replies
- 4.7k views
My head is spinning from scrolling through the FSM and web forums looking for information about my problem. This problem is intermittent but seems to be happening more frequently. This evening, the Datsun decided it was going to stay right where it is.. None of this started happening until recently. My symptoms are: -starter will turn over, but.. -temp, fuel and oil pressure gauge do not work -fuel pump doesn't run/pressurize the FI system (my pressure drops down after I turn the car off, inline gauge attached) -radio and blinkers do not work -idle has become very rough and after warm up, the CHARGE light comes on and the BRAKE light dimly lights up (with E-brake up). 2n…
Last reply by Lenbo211,
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