Electrical

What would be the best spark plugs and wires to use on a 240 L26 engine?

For the longest time i thought i had an overheating problem. But after replacing the thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, and radiator i dont think that is the problem. i think i have a hot start problem. The car after getting to running temp is doesnt like shut off because its to hot, but once i turn of the car it gets tricky. in order to start the car. i have to turn the key and give it gas. and it will start. but everytime i start the car cold i dont have to give it gas. This is the weird part. The first time i try to start the car while it is hot and i dont give it gas it will almost start then sputter dead. if i would have given it gas it would have started but maybe …

I just received a wiring diagram I had purchased on ebay. I am sure everyone has seen them for sale. Full color, laminated, etc. The one I purchased was advertised for the 69-70 240z and I am not sure how much it differs from a 71-73. I ran to the garage to compare with my wiring harness lying in the cardboard box and it seems pretty spot on (green and white, blue with red etc.). I haven't done a complete head to head comparison but think it was a good buy. It gets a little busy with everything on 1 page but the color is really nice. It is a lot easier to follow than the black and white ones I have looked at before. It even has the wiring for foglights (see earlie…

I'm wondering what might be going on, as I have no clue. My Z had been sitting for about a month and over the pass week I had to jump it a couple times and it seemed as though the battery was not holding a good charge. Yesterday, just to make sure, I charged it up, drove the car for about an hour and this morning went out to start it and got no power - not ever guage lights. I then proceeded to go and get a new battery - but after putting the new battery in, the same thing happens. I've checked the most obvious things - the cables are connected to the right terminals ( and both cables are fairly new as well), the starter is also fairly new. Any ideas on where I should loo…

replaced the fusebox in my '73 with the MSA upgraded one. There was the infamous extra wire plugged in to the back of my old fusebox on the lower left hand side. (Pic attached). This wire was run through the middle back of the fusebox and screwed onto the back of it. (Pic attached) Any ideas what this wire was for? Do I need to put the old fusebox back in? Is there a workaround for whatever this was for?

I want to go after the rear window defroster, which doesn't seem to be working; I turned it on one evening when it was foggeed up a little, and it didn't defog that much. I don't think there are any gaps in the gridlines, so Would it be better to optimize the voltage at the defroster terminals, or should I measure the current capacity of the circuit, to see it it's drawing XX amps, or what? thx

I am in the process of running my wiring harness and battery leads. Does anyone have a clear photo of where the positive and negative cable run to. I have looked thru the repair manuals but its not clear. I know this is dumb question but i dont want to screw it up. :stupid:

Hello...sadly I have cooked my Z car today. And after owning it for over thirty years I accidenitally connected the battery cables backward. Can't imagine what I was thinking. Was reconnecting after installing relay wiring harness for lights and new fuse box. Since the ignition switch was off I don't think it got into the car. However, the alternator was smoking , and maybe new distributor (electronic from 280zx) and starter. None of the fuses in the new fuse box burned nor did the inline fuse for the lights. Should I start by stripping back all the wires in the enging compartment or what??? :mad: :sick:

I'm getting to the point of cleaning up the harness and having striped a ZX have an abundance of nice relay setups. Needless to say the headlights are getting the fix to help save the 30 year old switch the beating of high current, but what other circuts could benifit?? Turn signals, wiper motor, parking lights?? What have you done, or thought about doing??? Mine is going to be a (well done) hack and install as the car is, and has been, so far from stock for so long that it will never return to that state, yes it is my fault but it started 25 years ago..... Any ideas on improvements or upgrades to the electrical are welcome...

At some point in ancient history, the wire from my fuel pump was cut. The mechanical one seems to work just fine with no starvation or vapor lock issues, but our club's tech guru thinks I should either hook it back up or bypass it because the mechanical pump has to pull fuel through the non-working electric pump. I found the fuse for the fuel pump, and it looks fine but I can't figure out where the wire from the fuel pump was hooked into the electrical system. Both ends of fuse lead back into bundled wiring and (apparently) back over the the P/S footwell junction blcok/connectors/relays. The long wire from the fuel pump up to the front of the car comes up the P/S firewall…

My '73 has a dealer installed A/C setup in it. The hoses look to be in good condition, and the unit itself looks like it's newer than 30+ years old. Trouble is, it's a pain in the arse to work around, it isn't charged, and I'm guessing I'll have to convert it to R134A costing me I don't know how much. If I knew it would work worth a damn if I did get it working then I would suck it up, but I just don't know how well they worked. I'm going to upgrade my alternator in a month or two so that may help offset whtever power drain there is...but is it all worth it?

Hey all, Couldn't find much info on this after some searches.... I am replacing my stock L24 with a reman 280 ZX F54/P79 motor, and am trying to figure out fuel pump issues. Here's what I know: 1) The P79 head has the mech fuel pump hole blocked off (or rather, not cut out of the head casting) because of the nature of high pressure FI setups, and that all 280ZXs came with electric fuel pumps. 2) Low volume/pressure fuel pumps (3-4psi) are available for 240Zs. 3) The wiring for early electrical pumps (1973-74 carbed 140/260Z)seems to be relayed such that the pump is on to prime the motor, then essentially off when the motor is running (most of the work done by the mech …