Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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this morning I tried to start my 260z and the engine turned as normal, then I remembered to pull the choke, and nothing. I tried again and it once again turned not start. I released the key and tried again (it was a cold morning) and nothing. Again, nothing, and again. Where do I start? The battery seems fine but I put it on charge anyways. I didn't even hear a solenoid click (although it might of been muffled by my panic). Should I start at the ignition, solenoid, or is there something obvious (or insidious) I need to look at? BTW, it likely doesn't matter but I have a Mallory Unilite ignition.
Last reply by kenward1000, -
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I am using ngk plugs bpr6es-11 with a gap of .041 and a msd 6al ignition and the blaster 2 coil. I am just looking for what other members are doing for plug gaps . I have a l28 block with n47 head and 1971 su 4 bolt carbs all stock . I see the 240z runs about .031 on the gap and the 260z runs about .036 on the gap and now the 280z runs about .044 on the gap . it looks like the fuel injected cars run a higher gap. I like the projected tip plugs the best for these carburetor cars ,and I am going to order some new plugs and the ngk bpr6es has a smaller gap than the bpr6es-11 . just looking if I should go with the smaller or the larger gap plugs. thanks
Last reply by kully 560, -
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Another question for those who have 1970-71 240Zs with original side marker lenses. I have one yellow that has DOT on one end and one yellow that doesn't. Which one is original?
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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I have a 1/1971 240Z that has original side lights. They are in ok shape, just needing a clean and buff. The buffing is easy enough. The cleaning is another thing. They seem to be composed of two pieces that are nested together. There seems to be no seal in this nesting of the two pieces. The result is that there are small amounts of dirt in between the two parts. Anyone had luck getting this dirt removed from between the two parts of the lens? I've tried blowing with air and soaking in water with no luck.
Last reply by kunzma, -
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While doing some relay troubleshooting, I accidentally sent 12v through W34 (the ground wire on the air regulator) I saw sparks for a split second a pulled the wire off. This wire is a ground going up to terminal 34 on the ecu. How much damage did I just do??!
Last reply by moozieman, -
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Hey everyone, recently got my first Z car to restore, a 1972 240Z. I've been going through and cleaning up all the harness snippings done by the previous owner and got most of my loose ends tied up, except this blue wire. Not sure what it's supposed to go to but I have the harness stripped so I can see where it leads, which is this weird 3 way splice. The car does have dealer AC so I'm thinking maybe that? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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I've been running my Maxifuse 4 circuit fuse block for a few months (replacement for the old fusible link set up) and all the electricals are working well. My worry has been the fact that the set up is definitely not water resistant (much less water proof) which could be a huge problem if I get caught in rain or simply carelessly wash my car. I like the fact that it's a simple 4 circuit system with readily available fuses so I found a way to put it inside a Husky brand (Home Depot) WATERPROOF 6" small parts box ( measures exactly 6"x6"x2") made of hard clear plastic. It looks like acrylic but I'm not sure. I pulled out all the partitions, opened 4 holes (one in each an…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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My car just started something weird. My headlights won't work unless the wipers are switched on. The parking light setting on the switch will work. I took the switch apart and gave it a cleaning but nothing changed. Has anyone else experienced this?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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This may be a stretch but my underhood light has never had the toggle switch it’s broken off at the base so I can’t turn the light on/off. The nut is still there though. Anyone ever replace just the switch? If so what did you use. Showing a picture of the part I am talking about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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Hi all, There has been some recent discussion about HEI modules, distributors, and other related components lately... I decided to take a quick trip down to the garage and took some photos of my setup. I didn't do this conversion myself, so, I don't know much about it. However, from what I do know this is a 280z distributor conversion. My favorite part of this conversion is a huge reduction of clutter in the engine bay. It's also very simple and eliminates the problems associated with points under the cap. I have a 1971 Z, but, this is a newer generation distributor. If anyone is interested in further details, I can give Steve a call at Ztherapy to get the…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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Hey, I bought this as part of a lot of 240Z parts but not sure if or what year(s) Z it is correct for. The number 4030 is the only marking I can see. Thanks for any help. --Thomas
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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New 71 240z owner. Attempting to measure/set timing on a engine that has no vacuum advance. Bought an Innova 5568 digital timing light. Can see that the crankcase pulley has 5 notches, corresponding to 0 - 5 - 10 - 15 - 20 degrees of advance. Is it correct that if I want to set the timing at (for example) 10 BTDC that the timing cover pointer should line up with the 10 degree pulley notch (3rd notch) while the timing light display is showing 10 degrees? Or, when the pointer lines up with the 1st notch (TDC or 0 advance) and the timing light display shows 10 degrees, does that indicate 10 degrees of advance? Thanks for reading this!
Last reply by kenward1000,
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