Electrical

I've spent the past day cleaning the turn signal switch contacts on my 1970 240z to fix some electrical issues. The left/right blinkers now work, but I'm still having trouble getting my brake lights to work. After installing the cleaned TS switch, the brake lights worked initially but then stopped working-- so I tore it apart again to make sure that the contacts connecting the signal from the brake switch to the tail lights were clean. Upon reinstalling the switch they still do not work. I've confirmed that I get 12v on the green/yellow wire from the 6-pin connector that goes into the TS switch harness. I've also confirmed that when the TS switch is plugged in to the…

Hello, I bought a Pertonix ignitor 1 and Flamethrower 1 and I am having trouble getting my car to start and have the Tachometer work. I have heard that I don't need my balast resistor and I can splice several of the wires together but I don't remember which ones. In addition I believe I have more wires than I need? Right now I have 1 black, 1 black with white stripe and 1 green with white strike wire not connected to anything? I am sure that is wrong? I have followed the in box pertonix directions. My set up is black wire and red (to the Ignitor) on the Positive side of the coil, on the negative I just have the black to the Ignitor. Thank you very much fo…

Been searching the forum for answers to my problems but have been unable to find one. 73 240Z complete tear down and rebuild. Working on reinstalling the dash and electrical. Trying to check out as much as possible before moving on. I've connected a motorcycle battery to the main electrical cable in the engine bay (that normally connects to the battery cable) for testing purposes. I did a pretty good job of marking all wires and plugs to facilitate reconnecting. Also I installed a new ac/heater system that had its own wire harness. I only had to use one 12V switched wire from the original harness and the blower motor control switch. So now I have two current problems…

The signals are doing some strange things that make no sense to me, using the old flasher unit, sometimes I can get all four signals to flash by moving the signal stalk left and right. Then the next time I go back to the left the front left signal won't flash or light up, the rear left and right signals always work no matter what, switch back to the right and now the front right signal doesn't work. Then a couple more tries and they all work again until the next time and the front left stops working. No rhyme or reason, I have taken the signal switch apart and cleaned the contacts with a scotch pad, the signal bulbs are working fine, I've switched them around, I've j…

Hello everyone At the beginning of November I started the restoration of my 76' 280z. The body is currently getting fixed and painted, engine is being rebuilt and I took on the task of rewiring the dash for the new gauges. My plan is to use the wires required from the original dash harness while getting rid of the ones I don't. Here is where the problem(s) start. I have a FSM and a colored wiring diagram but to be honest I'm having a hard time figuring out what wire does what. I started with the speedometer, which in the FSM states has 7 wires (one spare pin). Mine has all eight used. The connector pins out as follows: The connector is as follows: …

78 280Z. Fuel and electrical systems are totally stock. Car runs fine. Should I be able to hear the fuel pump working when the key is turned to "on" or just when it's turned to "start"? Currently the fuel pump does not operate until I turn the key all the way to "start" (starter motor engaged). Search function revealed conflicting answers - perhaps the answer is different depending on year model. It seems to me that I used to could hear the pump come on when placing the key to "on" (years ago) and so I'm wondering if something has happened that only allows it to operate when engaging the starter ("start" position of key). Any help is most appreciated.

WHen I first joined this forum, I noticed my tach was never really happy anywhere above 5k. I quickly determined that it was in fact the tach that was not happy, rather than the engine. Today, it was the first really hot day out, and after being in the sun all day and then getting stuck in traffic, I noticed my tack was hovering around 4k. Which in itself is not that unusual, but I was idling at a stop light. I noticed it then began to bounce slowly back and forth as it made it way to peg the needle past 8k. Now since I was at idle, I was pretty sure that this was not really happening :stupid:. The car ran just fine, so I was really not worried, figured the tach w…

Hi all, The FSM for early (1/70) 240Zs doesn't seem to exist and the one for the 1972 model that is available seems to show the wiring to be different from the 1970 model. Is there an accurate wiring diagram for the early 1970 240Z? When I use the search it seems to be able to take only one word and if two are used it seems to use them each separately so that a search on "accurate wiring" turns up posts with either but not both words. Do I have this right? Thanks, Mike

Many threads on the Pertronix install and the option of going with the 1.5 OHM coil w/Resistor or the 3.0 OHM coil w/out the resistor. Tech support at Pertronix recommends the latter (Part 40511) - but this would provide full battery voltage in RUN to the Tach. Does anyone have this set-up and experienced any issues with the stock tach?

Attached are some pics of my 1st prototype 3rd brake light. I figure trucks and SUV's won't easily see my brake lights below their hood line. The housing is polycarbonate made on a 3D printer. I tried to mimic a vinyl surface finish by dabbing the wet paint with a paper towel. It uses 12 red, high intensity LED's, (3300 mcd, 25 degree). To limit current and save the LED's I used a 150 ohm resistor for each block of six LED's. In the pics I show the light temporarily mounted using double sided tape. It appears to be bright enough in daylight powered w/ a 12 VDC battery charger. The housing shape is a bit crude / "blocky", so I've decided to design a new ho…

how many amps is the fuseable link comoing off the starter? my wireing diagram just names it and does not say how many amps...thanks for any help in advance

Thanks to Dave from Zs-Ondabrain I now have excellent lights throughout my 77 280. I purchased Dave's headlight wiring harness and parking light wiring harness upgrade. Very simple install. I would have to say at least 50% brighter now. That includes all dash lights. I can drive my Z again at night! If you are thinking about doing the upgrade, do it! Dave also rebuilt my combo switches. Was having electrical problems with them before Dave fixed them. It takes a lot to impress me and I am impressed. Thanks Dave. Bob. can anyone make out the pic of my Z or is it too small to see?