Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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My Series I has the original 140psig gauge and the sender was leaking when I bought the car. A trip to the local auto supply store sourced a compatible (?) sender. Later I found out that the original sender part number was superseded with the same part number as the ones found on Series II and later cars. Still later, I found out that the shop instructions state to also replace the gauge with a 90psig when replacing with the superseded sender. This makes sense for the then modern model car, but sucks when trying to restore a 43 year old car and desire to keep the original gauge. From what I can tell, the original sender was a 10 Bar sender (10 atmospheres or 145psig) and …
Last reply by AZ-240z, -
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I have decided to rewire my aging wiring loom and upgrade it to execute all the little upgrades I have in mind. I am by no means an electrical master, but I know the importance even our 70's cars need. My plans for my '74 260z is to wire tuck, hide the wires in the engine bay to be nearly nonextant, and to also include motor sport techniques to make quality upgrades. All wires will be replaced by Tefzel wire and Raychem heat shrink. the point is to make a bulletproof wire loom and to have fun working on this project and making it special. Now for everyone's benefit i will be updating this with all the stock wiring specs as they are on my car with what ever has happened to…
Last reply by youztheclue, -
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I have a 72 240z and can't figure out what the heck is going on with this wiring setup in the engine bay. It looks like there are three horn relays and two of them were soddered together and wrapped with electrical tape. There is also another horn relay in the passenger footwell. The horn works. I'm trying to diagnose some broader electrical issues, including no headlights. Anyone have a thought as to what this could be?
Last reply by Jls240Okinawaz, -
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So the electrical saga continues with my z... I have a 1978 280z and it recently developed a tendency to turn itself off when I'm driving. It started with it just turning off when shifting into reverse but has evolved into turning off with the right blinker once (I could hear the a relay in the passenger foot well clicking on and off with the blinker) and also just randomly while driving. Today it died in my neighborhood before i could leave and wouldn't turn back on until I jiggled the main wiring harness around. Because of all of this I suspect two wires shorted together since the turn signals and reverse are on the same circuit and removing the fuse for them fixes…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Been down this road before, cropped up again. Intermittent blowing of fuse to wiper only when using the washer pump push switch on the combo switch. 1st I disconnected both the pump AND the wiper motor, it will still sometimes want to blow the fuse (I can see it on the amp meter, so I release quickly to save the fuse). It will sometime work fine, other times there will be a 30amp looking surge per the amp meter (and blow the fuse if I don't get of it instantly). Since it does it regardless of the wiper motor or washer motor I am going to hope its not the wire harness (its all in real good shape from what I can see) and assume its either the combo switch or the interm…
Last reply by jkeese01, -
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It's those little things that go wrong that eventually bug you. A number of years ago I was driving my 240Z and all was well. Then one day on a cruise out of the blue the needle on the tach started slowly climbing until it was pegged! Shut the car off, restarted and all was almost well. At idle through about 3200RPM the tach works fine, but then will go no higher than about 3200RPM. Didn't really mind too much as I normally shift by ear and feel anyway. One thing that was changed about 1,000 miles before this happened was the dizzy was replaced with a 280zx distributor (electronic) and the ballast resistor was eliminated. I've gone over the connections and all appears to …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi All, My early Hitachi radio functions nearly 100% except for the audio output stage. I get a speaker thump when turning on but no static or sound. The volume and tone controls make no changes to the silence. I just replaced all caps and no change. I found the cap C38, which decouples the power amp transistors from the speakers, to be toast and the PO seems to have hooked up two speakers to the output. I am now starting to investigate deeper. The voltages on the power transistors are normal however I am getting ~230ohms across the input winding of the audio transformer T7 feeding the power stage from the Hitachi FA-6007T op amp. I'll che…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I've gone with LED headlights which I talked about here. All was well until last night. Just went to drive around the block just after dark and flipped the switch and nothing, just running lights and no headlights. Pulled into the garage and for grins hit the brights and boom, headlights, hit low beams and they were on. Apparently one of the jobs of the anti flicker device corrects the current flow (most of the time) to the bulb. Because LED's are diodes they will only fire when current is applied in the allowed direction. Here's what a typical 6024 bulb expects so I'm pretty sure a LED bulb is built expecting this configuration. The 240Z is wired with power on …
Last reply by AK260, -
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I have a series I car, and am working at restoring the interior. The car went through a large-scale restoration in the 90s under a previous owner, and has a lot of not-quite-original-to-1970 stuff going on. I've got the dash out, and have a new dash pad from VintageDashes ready to go on, but before I put the dash back in, I want to ask what my options are for the hazard switch. The current switch is the push/pull model from later Zs. I've looked on eBay, and see one early toggle switch for $125 starting. This car is not going to get to concours condition, but my preference is to get it closer to 1970 whenever I have a chance. 1. Is the 1970 toggle switch electricall…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hi guys, Working on a 1974 260z and ran into another weird lighting problem. The brake lights work as intended with the running lights off, but when the running lights are switched on, hitting the brake pedal does not brighten the rear lights. I checked the bulbs and the brake light bulbs are indeed dual filament like they should be. The odd thing is that when the running lights are switched on, both filaments are lit, that shouldn't be the case right (assuming one filament is for brake lights and the other is for running lights)? Any ideas as to how to get the brake lights to engage with running lights on?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hi guys, So got a weird one for you. We've been doing some work on a 1974 260z and the turn signals on the car don't blink in a standard rhythm. They randomly blink super quickly, super slowly, and everything in between when engaged with the signal stalk. I'm guessing this is a grounding issue with the turn signal stalk itself, right? I can't seem to find where the turn signal grounds out to , does anyone know? Any ideas? -chase
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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My horn works if I run a wire from the clip on the back of the steering wheel and touch the steering column with the other end of the wire essentially grounding it. But does not work when I press the horn pad an ideas? I removed the pad and I still have the spring not sure where to go from here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun,
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