Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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It seems the map light only works in one exact position if I push down too far it turns off is that expected or should there be a wider range the light turns on with. It seems like I almost have to wiggle it to get it into the on position Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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I have a stock 73 and I want to upgrade Alternator and still remain stock looking. I am planning on using 75 -77 280z Remanufactured Hitachi 60 amp regulator (Remy 14118) and get a 1977 solid state external regulator. Are there any modifications, like change support brackets or wiring?
Last reply by Craig24, -
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Just some notes from my install this weekend. I purchased a JVC kd-x255bt I purchased it from amazon but they are sold many places. Because it does not have a CD player it’s almost half the length of a regular head unit it seems http:// https://www.bestbuy.com/site/jvc-in-dash-digital-media-receiver-built-in-bluetooth-with-detachable-faceplate-black/6191304.p?skuId=6191304 It does not have a CD player only digital media and AM/FM. It also charges my iPhone at 1.5amps. It has Bluetooth and I can stream pandora/iHeartRadio right from my phone wirelessly. Anyway here are my wiring notes From Car blue white wire attached to cigarette lighter to the stereo yellow:cons…
Last reply by SoCalJim, -
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Hi all, My electric fuel pump is not getting power. There is power in the black/white wire off of the 2nd relay and I can trace power to the body harness connector next to the right side of the passenger seat. From there, it should go back to the pump but it never makes it. There is also no continuity from the body harness connector to the fuel pump connector. Given the option of either pulling out the wiring harness from under the interior panels or just splicing in a wire at the body harness connector and running it to the pump, which would be better? How much of the interior would have to be yanked to uncover the defective harness? Note that the car sti…
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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Just took these today and now they are helping a friend. Thought I'd share Figure 1 is from the 240z schematics. The schematics are more or less logical connections and do not show connector details. It shows the power, ground, antenna and back light wiring to the radio. (figure 1) The FSM gives details of the connector from the body wiring harness (from the back of the car). Figure 2 shows the 3 pin Molex-type connector. It has the two speaker wires (white and white with black stripe) and one back light power (blue). (figure 2) The photo below shows the corresponding connections on the radio unit. The m…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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I noticed lately when I start my car it seems like it takes a bit for the RPMs to stabilize and is down to around 500 rpm and my voltage gauge fluctuates a lot when i first start it. so I give it some gas to keep it going until it’s more warmed up. During these first few minutes my lights are also dimmer until I get it up to around 800+ rpm. Also when I turn on the headlights I get a noise coming from the alternator that used to not be there. Do you think it’s time for a new alternator? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
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I am selling my Z shortly and am working out a last minute bug that suddenly appeared. The left rear turn signal voltage drops to 0 under load. I am getting 12v at the wire, but put a light on it and the voltage drops to 0. The hazards DO work though. As I look at the wiring diagram, is the path: Green from hazard switch into T/S flasher, white from flasher to combo switch, white/black to left rear turn signal? If so, that will help me greatly narrow down the places to check.
Last reply by ktm, -
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I am trying to replace my door jamb switches in the 260z. They are rusted through and I pretty much was able to "poke" them out with a screwdriver. A few issues I need to deal with: -The metal around the self-grounding door jam switches are rusted. I will not be able to get a reliable ground connection here. How have you guys dealt with this in your own Z's? I am thinking I will need to run a ground wire from another part of the car body and solder it to the switch to get a good ground. -The driver's side door jamb switch had 3 connections running to it. I'm not sure what the connections are. You can see the wires in the attached picture. If I were…
Last reply by 7tooZ, -
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My head lights, turn signals front and back, brake lights, and back up lights all work, but the tail lights and the running lights on the fenders and quarter panels are not working. Someone I was talking to about this issue indicated I needed to check to see if the ground wires were in good order. My first question is where the ground wire would be? How do I check electrically? My second question is if the ground wire is good what else could be the problem?
Last reply by jj280z, -
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Can someone confirm the trapezoidal shape of the faceplate for the Hitachi model KM-1520ZC in 1972? Photos can be deceiving but I see a very rectangular KM-1520ZC on eBay described as OEM for DATSUN 240Z 9.71-9.73 Datsun 9.71-9.73 240z OEM Hitachi AM:FM Radio KM-1520ZC | eBay.webarchive
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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So I recently went through the whole list of contacts to clean on the Atlantic Z page and noticed that after cleaning the fuel injection power fusible link (sanded then doused with Caig Deoxit) the starter sounds way beefier and the car starts up considerably faster. The problem is that after the contact cleaner dries the car's starting speed/stronger starter sound reverts to how it was before. Is there some sort of goop or product I can put on the contacts to permanently keep that great connection? -chase
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Seems like I am missing the wire for the horn pad so my horn is not working... Where should the wire for the horn pad connect? Its a 77 280z
Last reply by mbz,
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