Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 1k views
Hi. I was looking for help on ignition issues on my 1970 Datsun 311. I bypassed the Ballast resistor but it didnt help.Thank you
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 2 followers
- 6 replies
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Alright guys this is going to be a bit lengthy, but I'm hoping by giving as much info as possible the clues will be there and you will have a better idea, maybe I'm looking too hard at one thing. Okay I got this 1978 280z about 2 months ago. The car hasn't touched the road in 12 years and hadn't started in who knows how long. First I got a battery and hooked it up. The brake lights or night time lights were permanently on and the headlight switch would turn on the lights (it looks like someone put in new wiring to all of these things to bypass switches or fuses). The voltmeter also was the only gauge that worked. With the keys in the car there was no signs of li…
Last reply by tleverett, -
- 2 followers
- 9 replies
- 1.9k views
I've been working on getting the electrical side of my '78 280z back to working and have run into a few issues. First off, my low beams do not work and I have confirmed its a grounding issue somewhere between the headlight plug and the switch by grounding it manually which makes them work. This also makes the high and low beams run at the same time which is not good. Second, while I was installing an upgraded wiper motor to replace my broken original one I had the motor working for a few minutes before lengthening the wires for permanent install then it stopped working completely even rewired multiple times. Third, My Blinkers do not work because I don't get power to the …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 2.7k views
My brake lights aren't working and I was going to replace the hazard light switch and the flasher on my 72 Z. Was wondering if I needed to remove the whole dashboard to replace them or is there another way to do it? Kind of tempted to remove the whole dash just to take a look around and do some cleanup, but I'm afraid that's going to take much longer. Time I could be out driving the car.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
electrical 1972 240z Brake Lights Not Working, Please Help, I'm A Mechanical Beginner
by Mazinger240Z- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 2.2k views
Noticed my brake lights weren't working on my 1972 240z. 1. Replaced the brake light switch, still not working. 2. Turn signals, lights, hazard lights all working and blinking. 3. Used a meter to test both new brake light switch, and wires leading to switch. power seems to be going to switch, and new switch doesn't seem to be faulty. Not really sure where to go from here. I've never really worked on cars before, so my mechanical/electrical expertise is minimal. I just successfully upgraded to an electronic ignition and new coil, and that's the most in depth thing I've ever done working on a car ( I was proud of myself for getting it working, and not h…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 followers
- 4 replies
- 3k views
Hey guys, I'm trying to perform the internally regulated alternator upgrade for the early model 260z. I was wondering if anyone has done this successfully and could share some knowledge on how the wiring should go? I have read through all the guides showing the mod for the 240z and 280z but in my research I am coming across some concerns regarding the 260z. The guides that I have read have been helpful in understanding that I need to wire a diode to be able to shut the car off. Guides I researched so far: http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/40818-260z-alternator-voltmeter-swap/ The challenges …
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
- 6 replies
- 869 views
My key-in buzzer never seemed to work. I thought I would look into it since I had the cover off. One of the wires from the switch is fine, and I can connect it, but the other wire had a splice that just fell apart. The wire that's left is too short to splice or even solder. Can you get the entire lock with the key-in switch and wiring off without having to break the bolts off? Do you even need those shear-bolts, or can you just use normal bolts? thxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 1 follower
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
Does this relay make a sound of any kind? Call me old school, but I like a "click/clack" or whatever when my blinkers are on. thanks
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
I bought the 60-amp alternator upgrade kit from MSA for my January 1971 240Z. Is it really a straight swap or should I be upgrading other things? What is your experience?
Last reply by kunzma, -
- 1 follower
- 11 replies
- 975 views
What is the best wire I should splice into for the gauge positive? I have the gauge mounted in the middle of dashboard area Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AZDatsun, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 610 views
well I have been wanting to do this for a long time, so now is the time to replace the manual antenna. anybody find a good quality power antenna for the early z cars. it seems like metro or retro sound is what I come up with on the net. would like to have something pretty reliable at least so any suggestions would help. kind regards
Last reply by kully 560, -
- 1 reply
- 1.1k views
My low beams don't work, and to follow the wires, you need to locate a connector C-2. It's a black connector, similar to the ones on the firewall junction panel. It's probably behind the radio, but I only looked near the fusebox & relays so far. Maybe someone bumped it when fixing the heater core, since that's about when the low beams started acting up. It's near the fuse links in this graphic. It also goes to the kickdown switch and kickdown solenoid. The High beams work fine.
Last reply by TomoHawk,
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