Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I uploaded this manual, hopefully it helps someone.
Last reply by 240dkw, -
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Hey gang, So it's time for a new battery - my Interstate MT-24 from 2018 has thrown in the towel. Should I just get another one of those or is there a commonly agreed upon better one to go with, without breaking the bank?
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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Hi guys, I hope to get some help-- I did some searches most of which led me to various articles in this forum, and the info was really helpful but I still have some questions. Background: Been restoring a 72 240 for close to two years, working on the electrical now, I am replacing almost all of the wiring with a generic painless-type harness, and have been using deutsch connectors for added reliability and weatherproofing. I have some questions on the combo switch. The circuit diagrams I have seen seem to indicate the red wire is what brings 12V to this switch for the headlights. I am far from expert, but when I open the switch up, that seems wrong. If you look at t…
Last reply by Vin S, -
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Found a thread on a 77 280 that showed rebuilding a Quartz clock, and referenced rebuild instructions (for the earlier type like mine?) without any link EDIT - found this thread linked searching on another forum - says 70-78Z, however I can only assume they never took apart a 75 version as it looks zero like the pics of the motorized version he shows (later in the thread) & describes repairing Before anyone mentions it, I'm not paying ZClocks $351 for a rebuild. circuit diagram posted on other forum - don't know if its accurate Has anyone found a common failure / repair point for this? I con't see anything blatant with the mechanism or the ci…
Last reply by zclocks, -
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Where have others who have done a Painless harness located their fuse boxes? A few locations I'm considering (generally in order of preference): On the bulkhead generally behind the cigarette lighter. On the outer wall of the drivers side. In the location of the old fuse box (I don't have a center console, so am a little concerned about placing this in a way that it won't have to be redone). On the bulkhead behind the glovebox On the outer wall of the passengers side (though, I think this may be too far from the steering column to work). Any recommendations? Any other threads with this (I've searched and couldn't find any). Photo…
Last reply by nkopp, -
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Does anyone know the proper part number for a 7/73 manual 240z dash harness? I do not have the original to reference so I'm running blind. The body harness is 24014-N3300 if that helps. I've seen 24013-N3321 and 3322 get mentioned but unable to verify. Seen an old thread with a link for reference but the link is dead. Any guidance will be much appreciated, thanks
Last reply by CCB, -
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My buddy sent me a pic of the radio he bought on Ebay. It is for his 280z but the back seems to have a 5 pin DIN, an two Molex type connections (3 pin and 6pin) Has anyone seen this before and have suggestions on pin outs? Thanks!
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Fiddling today before I put her away for a few weeks and noticed the high work but not the low beams on both sides. The stalk was in great shape when I last put it together about a year ago but maybe the low grounding in there has an issue? I really don't have time before my out of town trip to tinker, just curious if there's a list of things I should check when I get back? All other lights work great just the lows off for some reason. Could filaments in each bulb go at the same time for some reason?
Last reply by Richie G, -
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I noticed what seems to be a high voltage reading while driving today, but I am not sure if it is really an issue. I just added a voltmeter otherwise I would not have noticed anything! The car is a 1973 240Z with the original stock alternator and the original (points style) voltage regulator. While driving at highway speeds I noticed that the battery voltage measured over 15V. The shop manual calls for 14.30 to 14.80 volts at 2500 RPM and 68 F (67 F here today). But in the specifications for the voltage regulator it gives a regulating voltage range of 14.3 to 15.3 volts at 68 F. When I got back in the driveway I did a quick test at various engine speeds and ele…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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I posted this in someone elses thread, but decided to start a new one here. It may be useful for other members having problems with the TIU. These systems are getting old and starting to fail more often than not. A couple of months ago I had problems with water in the fuel system. After cleaning it all out, draining the tank replacing the fuel filter the engine ran normal again. When I took it for a drive I was lucky to limp back home with the engine coughing and backfiring. Went through the EFI bible test and found some poor soldering joints on the aftermarket injector connectors and some minor things. It still would not run right once it warmed up. It was great cold, b…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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Hey there everyone, While I finally seemed to have gotten my starting/running issue solved (thanks to the immense contributions to those involved!), my remaining issues I have split into three separate threads, with this one focusing on the blower motor. What I've done so far: *Replaced all fuses and verified connection between the fuses, no fuses are blowing. The switch for the fan speed does not work on *Any* setting. I figured it would be like my old RX-7, where the highest setting just bypasses the resistor entirely and sends straight 12V to the motor, so it would at least work on the highest setting, but alas, it does not. During my past diag…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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So, one of my last electrical issues I am tracking down on my car (78 280Z), is the park lights. They DO work, but they work selectively; I can turn the headlight switch on one turn to activate the parking lights, and the interior/park lights may not activate. However, with some gentle tapping of the headlight stalk when they are in the on position or some moving of the entire switch (rotating the entire turn signal and headlight switch on the steering column) this will also result in bringing the park lights on. Headlights work always with no issues.
Last reply by jfa.series1,
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