Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Hello, my 1972 240z won't display the temp, I grounded the wire that goes to the temp sender and it does not move the gauge so I think that rules out a bad sender, what can I do to find the problem?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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What is the box in the middle of the photo. LHS against firewall. It connects up to the clock (not working) and makes a humming noise whenever the battery is connected. Note car is a 73 JDM Fairlady Z / RHD. I know the unit on the left is the Flasher relay.
Last reply by moelk, -
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SO I have 1 horn working now (adjustment screw) but the second horn would not work. I took it apart and it has a set of points in it. So I adjusted the screw all the way in but cannot get the points to separate. Are the points supposed to have some separation?
Last reply by Namerow, -
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I have the gear reduction starter and all was well for about 1 month after taking the car back. -One day the battery would not turn the starter over and I was at 4 volts. Battery was new and needed charge for 3 days which is alot for this type of battery. -Load tested ok. -I made a hard start relay 30/40 amp relay. -The car will not turn over w/o the hard start relay. -When the car does turn over the starter is still turning over for a couple seconds, most of the time. It doesn't happen every time. -Starter is new? -II also have the MSA upgrade alt/diode. I have 14.2 volts at idle. -Is that too high? Thanks, GI
Last reply by GIchiro, -
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I don't know much about electrical systems, so this might be a really simple issue for some of you but it has me scratching my head. And it caused my son to get pulled over, which resulted in a 3x fix-it ticket for 1) The brake light, 2) modified exhaust and 3) no front plate. Here's the issue: Right side brake light doesn't work. Some issues: - Left side works fine - Replaced the bulb. No change. - Realized that the same bulb is used for turn signal and it works performing that duty! - Hazard lights (including the brake light bulbs) are working fine. - It worked until recently - I will go through the fuses tomorrow when it's light, but I assume…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I got a new battery for my Fairlady Z. Given the battery was smaller than stock the OEM bracket would not work. A quick design in fusion 360, a quick print of a prototype. then some tweaking before the final print. Works perfectly.
Last reply by JSM, -
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Hi All, First post here! I did in fact look through many prior posts about my problem! I went for my first state inspection today and realized none of the blinkers were working. The hazards light up at all four corners normally. When I got home I changed one of the fuses (although it looked fine) and since then the front directionals are working but still not rears. The rear hazard lights are working as are the brake lights. Is this likely a problem with the flashier unit that is located under the steering column covers? THANKS! BTW, I always wanted a Z-car when I was young and now I have a beautiful one!
Last reply by Coochas, -
- 3 followers
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Working on the wipers. Have the motor and assembly out of the cowl. Cleaned up the harness connectors when I put a new harness grommet on. Reconnected the harness to see if it still worked. Wiper motor worked perfectly two times. The third time the motor started humming loudly in the off position on the switch while the ignition key is in the ACC or On positions. Ideas?
Last reply by 5 Star Rising, -
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I just ordered a Retro Sound Model One from MSA and I will be installing it after I redo my DEF cable that is not functioning. Are there any pitfalls to installing a radio. Any advice. I know it is only a few wires, but is there something I could do to help myself out. Any advice on antenna's, how to prevent engine noise, etc. I do have a spare power antenna I want to install in the car, as mine does not seem to work. I have not done any troubleshooting yet. I know my up down switch has power going to it, I need to remove the panel covering the antenna and see what is getting power and what is not. Again, any advice in advance would be splendid.
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
- 4 followers
- 18 replies
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Hey All, Installed the Petronix Ignition Module and 3.0 Ohm Blaster Coil from Motorsport Auto on my 70 240. Per instructions for the 3 ohm coil, the ballast resistor was eliminated and leads connected together. The car starts and runs better than before with points but noticed that above 1500 RPM the Tach no longer works?? Has anyone had a similar experience and resolution? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi everyone, I own a Hybrid 260Z (with a 280ZX turbo powertrain) with some issues that I'm trying to clear up. I believe the electrical harnesses are a mix of 260Z, 280Z and maybe 280zx so I can't look in a service manual to figure things out (I do have all 3 manuals though). I need to understand what's going on, and I need some help with this. There are a few issues I want to resolve, so I'm taking a baby steps approach, a little at a time to avoid being discouraged by the whole thing. First step, replacing the fuse links with some Maxi fuses. I'm not sure the wires that were in the fuse link holders were fuse links, so I'm replacing them with somethin…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 4 followers
- 16 replies
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Hi all. I keep having the same issue post install of my #1761 pertronix ignitor. It is coupled with the blue Bosch 3.0 coil and resistor bypass. I have also installed a new alternator and double checked the wiring throughout. The problem is as follows: After install car runs perfect no miss, strong power, tach fine. After about 3-4 days and numerous start-ups, the ignitor dies and stops sending electricity to the plugs. This is the third ignitor and I took it my mechanic who installed this most recent one. After starting and stopping it approximately 6 times ( idle for about 30 min. ea session) the ignitor died. We are clueless why this is happe…
Last reply by jalexquijano,
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