Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Hey there everyone. I'm currently trying to iron out some issues with my car, and if anyone would be kind enough to lend me their advice and insight, I would be very grateful! Huge thanks to @SteveJ for encouraging me to post here! I've got a new to me 1978 280Z (five speed manual) that I am trying to get back on the road. Body wise it seems to be in great shape and overall it seems to be mechanically complete. However, I am having some issues with the interior gauges not functioning. Here is the state of that: *No functionality on any gauge except volt meter - Oil, water, fuel, tach, clock. - None of them are functional. *No functionality of turn signal…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 639 views
Hey there everyone, My remaining issues I have split into three separate threads, with this one focusing on the turn signals. The past thread got a bit convoluted, but thanks to everyones contributions I was able to solve my main issue (so far), and this thread is focusing on the signals. Originally, the signals didn't work whatsoever. My fuses in the passengers kick panel were not blown, but they were so oxidized, they had built up a ton of resistance so virtually none of my electronics were working, and those that were, were heating up their respective fuse (dome light) or illuminating their respective warning lights VERY dim (Brake light on cluster). …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 7 followers
- 52 replies
- 4.8k views
A while back I found that there was an H4 headlight kit for the Toyota Land Cruiser that used Koito H4 housings. This got my attention since Koito supplied many bulbs to Nissan, including sealed beam headlights. The website I found with the best price said they were sold out, so I put myself on the waiting list. Earlier this week I saw a post on Facebook where someone said he bought this kit from Toyota for his Z cars and supplied a part number. Using that part number, I searched dealerships online that said they had the part. One of the dealerships is on the other side of town, so I pulled the trigger and ordered a set. The kit arrived today. It has a nice relay har…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 2 followers
- 15 replies
- 872 views
Hi guys, Quick question for you - is there a wiring harness that goes through the a-pillar or through the portion above the door but below the roof (its covered with foam/vinyl)? The reason I ask is periodically I will hear a buzzing, kind of like the sound of high voltage jumping from a wire to a ground coming from the area above the passenger door but below the roof. Is there a wiring harness there that could have a nicked wire? This does not seem to be affected by the volume of the stereo. -chaseincats
Last reply by chaseincats, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 242 views
My factory horns were shagged - sounded like an anemic fart at best. I need good horns with all the SUV / flotilla drivers who don't look down before lane changing Added a sub harness with grounds and a single JPT connector replacement for the factory spade, then installed the Volvo/Fiamm horns on the factory brackets Left side Right side grounds on right inner fender
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 3 followers
- 3 replies
- 382 views
This may be a simple answer to my question but here it is. I have an early 1970 240Z with the headlight wiring that uses the ground circuit for the wiring. It also switches the ground for the high beam. I wanted to know if the wiring harness that is common (Dave Irwin's) will work on this model or do I need to do some sort of modification. I have run across threads that say its different for the early models that use the ground wire. So I just want to be sure. I hope this makes sense.... I am also going to make the harness myself so I just want to make sure I follow the correct method to wire it all up. Thanks, Tim M
Last reply by MyDatsun240Z, -
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- 0 replies
- 214 views
Following SteveJ's suggestion I've been converting all the external bulbs to LED. I found in the process that my reverse light circuit was dead - no continuity through the reverse light switch on the trans. Checked when I was changing the gear oil. New switch in place. One of the Datsun guys on the Old Volvo forum said these switches tend to not last. Since I had the under dash open again for the HEI module swap out, I cut the R/blk feed from the switch to the rear & fed that into a relay as the trigger signal (86). Switched power to the relay is the R/gy wire, 2nd from the right. No fuse in the pic yet. Output from the relay (87) then connected …
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 5 followers
- 42 replies
- 1.8k views
One of the wires coming out of the ignition switch just gave way and my luck it broke inside the little housing. Is that housing removable does anyone know? It didn't look like it but I diodn't really want to get a screw driver under there and go at it too hard. Any suggestions on how to repair this? I've seen some other ignitions have the wires exposed but of course mine isn't that lucky 😞
Last reply by Richie G, -
- 4 followers
- 32 replies
- 3.2k views
Now that I have the cowl prepped, and the Datsun linkage repaired & lubed, I'm doing the Honda wiper motor conversion documented HERE Reference thread regarding reverse polarity park 75-specific wiring post There's also another link somewhere for the AtlanticZ 'how to fit" PDF So, the big Q for me is how this all ties together. The FSM BE overview & wiring (page BE-62 & BE-68) for 75 shows the interval relay. The intermittent amplifier is shown on overview BE-6 and wiring BE-68. It is not shown on the flow diagrams on BE-66-67, unless I'm missing something. It's unclear to me, even after reading the function overview on BE-60, what exactly it…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
I searched & did not find any specific content related to solenoid and/or starter circuit. Now that I've actually driven the car on short (3-5 mile) runs around the local towns, I have found that the starter will not engage unless I cycle the key several times once the engine & bay are hot - I can hear an audible click from the starter, and the amp meter shows a heavy draw at that moment the key is held in the start position. Up til now I have only started & run the car idling in my driveway. I gather the issue can be related to the wiring from the ign sw. to the starter solenoid, if it's not the solenoid itself. Since it seems to be a heat soaking t…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 4 followers
- 16 replies
- 1.9k views
Hey, working on restoring my turn/headlight assembly on my 73 and hadn't really found a tear down of the high/low beam switch so I figured I'd post some pictures while I'm at it The spring in the pin on the right is removable, i just didn't want them rolling away so I kept them attached. Inside the plastic housing is a plastic triangle that the pin actually switches other end to the left or right side when you depress the switch. It's held in by a retaining pin but I didn't want to push my luck trying to get that out. At the tip of that is the spring and brass top, which is rocked back and forth against a little plate which connecst the circuit to the high…
Last reply by Terrapin Z, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 782 views
A friend was working on a customer's 78, and there was an issue with the headlights. I took a quick look at it a couple of weeks ago when my friend was hosting a party (It was a great way to decrease the amount I had to socialize.), and it seemed like corrosion in the fusible link may have been the cause. The fusible links were pretty nasty. My friend put in a Maxi Fuse holder, but the problem remained. I went out to take another look today. I saw voltage on both sides of the right fuse when I pulled the ground on the circuit. However, the was no voltage on the downstream side when I had the ground plugged in. I cleaned the fuse holders with a wire wheel, but no chan…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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