Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Just removed the green tape from 1761 petronix ignitor module. Any issues with this or should i place the tape back?
Last reply by JSM, -
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While I've got the dash open for a new radio I thought I'd replace the overhead and map bulbs with LED. Thinking a nice bright for the overhead; https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/festoon/filter/Base_Type,3110,1,8182: And https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/de3175-led-bulb-4-smd-led-festoon-30mm-car/2107/#/attributes/10822 for the map light. Will these work?
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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my tach is not accurate - jumps all over the place? worked fine forever - but this season just choppy and unreliable. 1973 260z - flat top carb model. car has only 35,000 miles on it
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I have been making improvements to my 1972 Z. I bought my Z brand new in 1971. I like all the improvements cars have today, so I have added a push to start to the ignition, a Retrosound Bluetooth radio and made a box to operate my original antenna manually and supply USB power for my other devices that will need to be charged. Let me know what you think of the work I did on the box. Phil Smith
Last reply by KSRosser, -
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Just so you guys know I have been doing something besides being a smart arse on the forums here I have been installing an aftermarket ECU called Megasquirt on my 71. Why you ask, because it's always been about the learning experience for me and the challenges that brings. I enjoy the L series engine and I have done the SU thing, and now the triple carb route, now I want to indulge into performance FI. Maybe-eventually-turbo charging. I am having way too much fun with the NA motor for now, and I would like to FI my L24 and save my pennies for a Rebello. I am going to do this in baby steps so i can still enjoy my ride. This crappy winter has forced the Z indoors, but has…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I'm installing a modern pioneer into a 1970 Z. This car had a blaupunkt tapedeck installed in the 80s. It powered up when I got the car, but apparently it needs an amp (and they took out the speakers too, but whatever). I've been reading up in the FSM, the forum, and google. It seems pretty straightforward, but I want to ask to make sure about 2 things. 1. What is going on in this picture? This is the radio harness removed. I checked voltage, and the red/blue is +12V at ACC, 0V when off. Blue is +12 always. Some PO wired these together. Then to a 1A fuse. Then to the radio. I don't have wiring diagram for the blaupunckt, so no idea what it had for options. But…
Last reply by Warty, -
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I am sure this is not new to the group but since I made a video I figured would post a thread (video attached later). I have been having start issues since I got the car nearly 2 years ago. I thought I had check the starting circuits (spark and injector during startup) but since it was intermittent I prob just never caught the issue. I finally broke down and removed the switch for a more comprehensive test of the start circuit. Sure enough I have multiple dead spots on the switch when turned to "start". I did NOT test the new OE switch, prob should have but it was so easy to install I just could not wait. Needless to say it started instantly, no longer do I crank an…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hi! Took my dash out and put it back in. Everything workes except i can now turn my radio/fan/gauge lights on with my headlight switch. I don't need to have my ignition on to do this. Can't turn radio/fan/ gauge lights on without having the headlights on. Maplight and the light in the roof (for open door) workes as it should. Anyone know what I have connected wrong? Im Not familiar or anywhere close to good at reading wire diagrams so I really hope for an answer like "that colored wire should go to that colored wire" ; ) Thanks
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 4 replies
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Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared with YG/BY) from the engine compartment harness to the dash harness. However, ther…
Last reply by 1971s30, -
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So, let me start off by saying that classiczcars.com is by far the most helpful, accurate Z Car website by far. Thanks to a write up by BlueisNow, I was easily able to swap the internals from a 280z tach into a 240z tach and now my tach reads PERFECTLY! Big up to the man like that.. So, now that I've swapped it, the backlighting will not turn on, neither will the blinker lights. Any of you fine gentlemen ever experienced this before? Thanks for reading, C
Last reply by kayinsunz, -
- 2 followers
- 14 replies
- 2.4k views
Hey guys I am currently working out some issues with my 75 280Z. The EFI has been removed and replaced with carbs. Lately I have been having some random starting issues. It doesn't happen all the time but once in awhile it will crank but not turn over. I have narrowed it down to the fuel pump cutting off during starting/cranking. Currently the fuel pump is wired directly to a 12v ignition wire from behind the ignition switch. I hooked up a volt meter to this ignition wire and usually 9 times out of ten, it only drops to 10-11 volts during cranking...but every once in awhile it drops to 0. When this happens I can look at my fuel gauge under the hood and it drops to 0-1 psi…
Last reply by HaZmatt, -
- 9 replies
- 10.2k views
Yesterday as I drove my 240z home from the upholstery shop the tachometer took on a mind of its own and the car seemed down on power and running rough at idle. Once I got home I looked under the hood and immediately saw my coil was leaking oil. Worse yet, it looks like it has been doing this for awhile, how did I miss this? Anyway, I have a new coil on the way but also wanted to test the ballast resistor. With the car running, if I ground the negative lead of my digital multi-tester against the body and place the positive lead on the resistor terminal on the right I get 13.65V. If I place it on the left terminal with the + sign I get 11.74V. From what I have read …
Last reply by Hardway,
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