Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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Iam in the process of installing an new ignition coil that came with its own white resistor block. It has a wire that goes from resistor + to + on the coil. My issue is that the new resistor as two attachment point were as my original resistor has three attachment point. (Early 74/260Z). The original connections goes like this; the small cylinder (condenser?) is connected to the + of the coil than a blue wire from harness goes to coil negative. White/black wire from resistor negative to + coil Black/White wire from harness goes to + resistor Black/Blue from harness to its own pole on resistor. Black wire from harness to - resistor to positive coil…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hello, I have a 1976 280z and the radio, A.C., and wipers are not getting power at the fuse. Every thing else gets 12 volts going through but 0 volts at those 3. The wipers, blower fan, vacuum electro magnet for the A.C. (no vacuum getting past), and radio (has an after market radio do not know if it needs its own power cord.) all do not work, also the fuel warning light, glove box light, dome light, volt discharge light, right turn signal dash light, hi beam dash light, and speedo dash light do not work but I am not sure if all of the light bulbs are good. Dose the car have an accessories relay that i can hit with a hammer or replace? Any help will be appreciated, T…
Last reply by SeanT, -
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Use of DIY stethoscope showed "box of rocks" noise during warm up is coming from the alternator. Guess a bearing is shot. Stock alternator is 40 amp. The two from autozone were 50 amp. I see RockAuto has 50 and 60. A couple of voltage regulators have gone out in 7 or 8 years. I plan to get a 50 amp, any problem with that ? Any advantage or problem with 60 amp ?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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I am trying to understand the wiring functions in the overhead/dome light. I have studied the FSM (Figure BE-23) and the wiring to my light to find out why my light does not work by door contact or manual (lens button). I am trying to use my very basic electrical knowledge and use my voltage tester to determine energized and grounded wires. I clearly test the Blue/white stripe wire as constant 12 volt, battery powered. I also get a functioning ground signal from the black wire. The bulb (even tried several) tests as good. However, I can't get any power across the bulb connections...BW (BE-23 code LW) and Black/red stripe. I know that BR is controlled by door swi…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
Iam in the process of installing an new ignition coil that came with its own white resistor block. It has a wire that goes from resistor + to + on the coil. My issue is that the new resistor as two attachment point were as my original resistor has three attachment point. (Early 74/260Z). The original connections goes like this; the small cylinder (condenser?) is connected to the + of the coil than a blue wire from harness goes to coil negative. White/black wire from resistor negative to + coil Black/White wire from harness goes to + resistor Black/Blue from harness to its own pole on resistor. Black wire from harness to - resistor to positive coil…
Last reply by dat260, -
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On my 1977280, the emergency/parking brake switch has only one wire. Black w/ male lead from bottom of switch to ground. The FSM shows this B wire from switch to ground yet also a green/yellow stripe wire going toward the switch..does this GY (ignition powered) energize the switch? How does switch energize for the black wire to function as a ground?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Could some one provide a photo of the connection point for a stock coil noise suppression condenser? I'm not sure if it connects to the primary terminal of the resister block or the black with white wire near the engine harness/coil connector that accepts a bullet connector. Thanks.
Last reply by dat260, -
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I got back from Mid Ohio vintage racing, and I noticed that one headlamp was out. I fund the problem: the one connector on the passenger firewall (it's a green one) was bumped by the storage container that I keep the spare stuff/junk in. I just moved the connector shells a nit, and the lights worked again. I'd say this is a reminder to make sure you have those wiring shields in place and in good condition, to protect those important connectors that carry the signals from the steering column-mounted controls. like headlamps & turn indicators.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I have a question for the electrical experts: I bought a Beck Arnley aftermarket ignition switch to replace the 40-year-old OE switch in my '70 Z. Seemed like a good preventative maintenance step, with the steering column currently out of the car. However, I've found puzzling difference in the operating logic of the two switches. It has to do with the switches' 'R' circuit, which I'm pretty sure means, 'Resistor' (as in, ballast resistor for the coil/tach circuit). With input power applied to each switch module by way of the 'B' (battery) terminal and output monitored at the 'R' terminal, this is what I find: Key Position "R' - OE Switch…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I'm finishing up the wiring as I near the end of the restoration of my '76 280z. There is a single black wire with a spade connector on the ignition switch. Any help on where it connects? You guys have been a great resource so far! Thanks!
Last reply by Reaves76280z, -
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When I purchase my 240 about a year ago, the previous owner gave me a big box of extra parts. Included in the box was 2 clocks, 3 Amp/Fuel, and 3 Temp/Oil. It looks like there are a few from a 72' 240z and some from a 74' 260z. See picture. I was looking for some assistance on what to do with them. The previous owner didn't think that they were working, but based on his overall lack of knowledge for the car, I think i'd like to test that theory for myself. Can someone give me some insight on how to go about testing these? Secondly, what does demand look like for selling these? I see some on ebay ranging from $30 to $100, depending on the gauge and condition. If …
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Hi everyone: I have my headlights on a 5 pin relay with 87 +12v battery (with a 10A fuse on each), 30 output to LB/HB, 86 headlight on/off switch, and 85 ground to LB/HB dimmer. I noticed my rear side passenger marker light was out so I replaced it. But when I switch on the headlights it blows the 10A HB fuse. However if I replace the 10A fuse and put back in the burned out bulb into the rear side passenger marker light socket I don't blow the headlight 10A fuse when switching between hi/low beam. Don't the running lights route through the hazard switch and the headlights through the combo switch? I don't how how the headlight and running light would short/open …
Last reply by 882993md,
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