Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I balked some years ago at the cost of replacing the stamped metal tray for my battery and instead put a container in for moving it to the hatch. In doing so, I became subject to a number of rules regarding how the car must be prepared to run on the track, the most onerous of which is a kill switch on "the rear-most part" of the car. For reference, here's the ever-popular internally regulated 60/70A Hitachi from a 280ZX: I've had a Moroso 74102 for some time acting as a kill switch (mounted to the rear panel, through the license plate), installed per the directions but I'm getting ready to run a 100A alternator (to support some other modifications), and re…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Purchased a 72 race car that had been using the original Z wiring. I am in the process of rewiring by removing all original wires and replacing with new. My only elec. components are elec. fan behind the radiator, gauges, rear lights, fuel pump, ignition, cool suit and the original defrost/heater blower. So far three questions: 1. There is a single wire attached to the center of the brake pressure differential located just below the front brake booster. Is this needed? 2. I believe the car still has the original alternator. One wire from a elec. post labeled "E", one wire from a post labeled "A" and a T plug with two wires. Is all I need to do is attach th…
Last reply by Mojos 72z, -
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Sometimes my car seems to start best if you turn the start key to start, then release to run, that's when it begins igniting and running on its own. I was thinking about this and wondered if its possible I had an intermittent key switch issue. I get my analog meter (better for quick changes in current flow readings) and hook up to the + side of the distributor connector on the ballast resistor (the spade connector). I disable the starter solenoid (pull the spade connector) and check for voltage in the run position, looks good, then I advance the key to the start position, still voltage but a drop, him that seems odd, I review the FSM and confirm if anything ther…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hello, I am new to the z world, but I've always loved this cars, i could just never afford one. Finally got one and apart from some electrical issues i am working through, the car has potential, i am confused on the alternator schematic. What i have circled in red, is that the T connector i keep reading about? Also, looking at my alternator, the connections on it look nothing like the schematic, all i see is a single wire running to it. ill post a picture of it when i get home.
Last reply by kutukutu1, -
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I have a short or something going on that when I pres the brake pedal the sidemarker lights and the dash lights come on in addition to the rear brake lights. Also when I have my headlights on the turn signal for the left signal lights up ...Anybody have an issue like this and how did you fix it. Thanks
Last reply by zdude1967, -
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I installed a heavy duty headlight harness on my 1978 Z and now my high beam lights are on when it is in low beam mode and the opposite I have low beam lights on when I pull the lever to switch to high beam. Any one else had this happen when installing a headlight harness?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I just recently got my Turn Signal / combo switch and hazard switch redone by Dave and let me give credit where it is due... it looks staggeringly good! I have no more weird light issues, as Dave fixed them! Great vendor! However, having said that.... here is a new issue....all my lights and radio and every thing work beautifully. But my horn is acting funny. When I turn the wheel the horn beeps if I turn it just so far. I think the turn canceling tabs are hitting the little spring arm. That spring arm is suppose to touch the back the wheel brass all the time and pressing the horn button makes the connection if I recall. Has anybody ever had this issue?…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
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Lately there have been several threads that all seem to be discussing timing advance problems related to the E12-80 electronic distributor conversion on older engines. For example: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34031&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34073&highlight=E12-80 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34126&highlight=E12-80 In at least one of them I ask if there was any way to know which distributors might be good candidates, and which ones to avoid, but never really got an answer. So I took it upon myself to download the factory service manuals for all five yea…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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I have an original antenna mast with the plastic string broken, and about 10 motor units that all now work. I was wondering if anyone has tried to replace the plastic string? I have an idea I would want to try however I only have one mast, not even a later model one to try first, so I wanted to see what has been tried. If you tried something please let us know even if it failed. Hear is what I was thinking of doing. I was looking at string trimmers' string at the same diameter and stiffness to replace the string. The nice thing about trimmer string is it comes in different harnesses, and thicknesses so finding what will work will not be the problem. The problems are …
Last reply by newtonhubcap, -
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I have been cleaning all the connections and replacing the rubber seals on the connectors in the engine bay harness. A couple of the ties supporting the harness are damaged and unusable. I have been searching the internet for the original 280Z reusable style cable ties, but they don't seem to be available anymore. They are the ones that secure the harness above the frame rails, both sides of the engine bay. The parts manual doesn't list any part number for them and they are probably NLA. Maybe they were used on later model Nissans. Anyone know if these are still available or maybe some good condition second hand examples? Thanks Chas
Last reply by HSL, -
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My left side brake light is not working. Good bulbs, good fuse, like new bulb harness. The parking light works on that side as does the turn signal, but no brake light. My car is a 73 240Z. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by nahurry, -
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Basic question I know but basic's where I'm at. It should be about 8 volts across the coil right ? I'm getting about 4 volts across the ballast resistor which seems about right, but only 4 to 4.5 volts max across the coil. If it's supposed to be 8 there must be a resistance somewhere that's hogging about 4 volts. Not the only electrical problem of course. One time, got zero volts across coil. Cranked the starter accidentally and turned the key back to "on" engine still off, then I got the 4 volts again.And with the engine running, still got the 4 volts or slightly less, but every 5 seconds or so it dropped to about 1 volt. Maybe there's a vibration-related int…
Last reply by SteveJ,
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