Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
-
- 3 followers
- 9 replies
- 1.5k views
Searched the electrical forum but couldn't find much. It would help to get a link or two. Need to do some troubleshooting of the ignition system. Unraveled a harness, found some corrosion and other surprises. Don't want to do a big electrical job, don't feel qualified, but looks like I might get stuck with it. Got and read some troubleshooting books, and watched some videos about soldering and crimp connectors. Seems easy enough, and maybe it is, but wondering what to do when I get to one of the many stock multi-connectors. If I find a burned or corroded one, or if I accidentally mangle one while trying to "fix" it, are they still available ?
Last reply by jwtaylor, -
-
- 3 followers
- 30 replies
- 3.6k views
Wanted to rebuild the combination switch and broke one of the tabs holding down the metal plates. Not sure what to do now. I'm guessing I need another switch? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
- 2 followers
- 9 replies
- 6.9k views
I purchased my 260z (build date 8/1974) with the headlight upgrade with separate relays for high, low, fog, and wash. I have working brake lights, hazard, and turn signals. I tested the wiring at the combo switch by testing the white/red wire with a test light and it has voltage (so wiring from fusible link is ok). With the headlight switch turned on I tested the solid red wire with the test light and it has voltage so that means my switch is good. The headlight power is coming off the positive starter bolt. Would I now test to see if the relays are bad? Howard 1974 260z
Last reply by 882993md, -
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
- 3.4k views
I have an issue with spark on my 260z. I am keeping the transistorized ignition system in the car as of now (totally open to removing it however). I realized that i did not have the correct wires running to the distributor, That it was supposed to have a GR/GW combo going into it. I have these coming out from the TIU under the dash, BUT apparently both of my distributor units are points type..... I assume that this means that I cannot run them? is there another way to run the system? Or should i go look for a 260z distributor? (cant find any around specifically for this car with its TIU, everything is for the other on the dizzy modules)... Man 260'z have reall…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 7.7k views
After some trouble shooting on my driver side brake light I determined the point of failure was coming from the turn signal switch. Once on the bench I could tell someone had been here before as the tabs showed tool marks and were not flat against the board, this is usually not good. After carefully opening it up I discovered everything was pretty clean but the usual ball bearing stalk contact had been replaced a glob of resin and solder that has been sanded in to shape, probably due to be lost the last time it was taken apart. Should I try to just build up the solder or track down the ball bearing? I think the bearing route is best but does anyone know the size? Mig…
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
- 6.5k views
I just swapped from the FI system to some SU carbs on my 1978 280z. For the fuel pump I just mounted a new low pressure pump right where the old one went. I have not touched any of the wiring other than just disconnecting it from the old intake so I could replace the manifolds. I read somewhere that the fuel pump is somehow hooked up to the CPU and pulling it will require you to re-wire the fuel pump so it runs. Is this true? I only read it on one post out of the hundreds that gave information about the swap. If it is connected to the CPU and I am required to re-wire it, does anyone have any experience and could tell me how you did?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
- 2 followers
- 15 replies
- 7.3k views
I am on the verge of making my 76 280Z a daily driver. I will be starting a new job only about 3 miles from the house and plan on driving daily. I have been going over things and at this point the car is starting and driving fine. Of course the priority was getting the radio, amp and sub installed. Everything seems to be working except the right turn signal. All other lights work fine. No interior flasher or exterior turn signal for the right side. Left side is fine. I have read through some posts and it appears according to the post the issue may be the turn signal switch. Just thought before I get into this I would confirm if there is something else…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 3k views
Red coil 00013 got here yesterday from amazon, had a small circle of brown stuff on the shiny part just below the cap. Guess I better sent it back. Don't know if I should get another one or try something else. Read that the Brazil import ones were OK, but maybe not.
Last reply by Chickenman, -
- 29 replies
- 4.2k views
I've been reading about the usefulness of a multimeter in improving the working of your engine, and I even considered buying one: SainSmart DMT100B 3(5/6) Multimeter Bluetooth Android Datalogger but I thought I'd ask what others use. The devices I read about include functions like frequency, duty-cycle, temperature (thermocouple), peak-hold, data-logging, graphing/bargraph, transistor/diode tester, etc. Some specialized ones for automotive use has RPM, dwell, etc. The one that interested me had a Bluetooth capability to interface with an Android application as a remote-control. So as the title suggests, please share what you use as a multimeter. if you …
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 2 followers
- 19 replies
- 13.4k views
This may sound stupid; however, I really do not know how a horn functions. My horn in my 76 Z is not working. I have removed the center part of the steering wheel and the plastic piece directly behind the steering wheel. After that I am not sure what I should be looking for. Where is the horn? What other parts need to be considered? I did check the fuse. I looked at a couple previous posts on this topic but did not understand the details. Any help would be appreciated.
.thumb.JPG.21f1724e227b22b6d5306af2d3267f40.JPG)
Last reply by FunkytownZ, -
- 1 follower
- 65 replies
- 8.9k views
So im here again, i only ever show up when i have a problem I cannot solve, this one i have been racking my brain on for most of a year. The car: 1978 280z, mostly stock, lots of new parts and a spart car to check parts against. The problem: Occasionally the car will have an extremely rich running condition, it will barely run, idles around 400, has no power and giving it any throttle usually kills it. Rarely this will happen when i am driving. Usually it is after i run it then stop (such as to run in a store) come out and this manifests. It acts somewhat like as if the ECU is running in a worst case senario, and as the car gets hotter it runs worse until it die…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 15 replies
- 12.9k views
I remember reading somewhere that friction tape is bad. Datsun left me stranded. It had been intermittently hard to start. Then yesterday it died on the road. It would start and idle OK, engine would rev fine, then it would die, tach dropping instantly to zero, no sputtering. Lights OK, cranks well, was running great at 4000 rpm. So I'm pretty sure problem is corrosion or an open between the ignition switch and the distributor. So I'm going to have to check out the wiring in that area. I'll probably have to replace some wiring and connectors, which means removing the old material that covers the wires. I want to replace all that wiring from the coil to the distributor - i…
Last reply by EuroDat,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
inline6
