Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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It sits between the blower and the heater box and the blower fans ground is wired through it. Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Martzedcars, -
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I have ordered some odd-looking relays via eBay recently to see what they are like and how they would work out. Both are the 4-pin type. One is a "waterproof relay" that comes in its own shell, and the other is a relay with an integrated blade fuse. What I'm interested in knowing is that for the former relay, is it practical? The the base has the terminals, the cap has the relay inside, and you plug them together. For the latter, would you trust it to work if mounted on the inner fender? It looks like the socket where the fuse goes would be most likely to collect water and eventually corrode. If not, this relay would make it convenient, as you don't need to w…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Most Internet tutorials show schematics where the relay for fog lamps or headlamps is activated by a switch that's connected to a switched 12V power source. You could also just bridge the 12V source to Pins 87 ( the relay contacts) and 30 (the coil) and go from pin 30 to ground with a switch in the cabin. The latter switched-ground method uses one less connection to the battery. But for the convenience of turning the lights off when you turn off the keyswitch or engine, you need another hot wire. My question would be, "where do you get the switched power from?" You could tap into the radio or heater power wires, but those two things use a good bit of power, an…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I can't find any 10 amp SFE fuses anywhere! The SFE is for automotive and only holds up to 32V. The AGCs are all purpose and go to 250V. I have the 20 amp SFE and was wondering if it would be okay to use the 10 amp all purpose fuses? Thanks for any help. Cliff
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Hey everyone, I decided that popping the hood all the time to disconnect the battery was getting a bit old and I wanted to install a battery disconnect switch (one with the red removable key) and actually had one from a while ago. My question here is on how big the wire gauge needs to be (and still be safe), and how I should go about making or where I can but the wiring components necessary. I have a spot for it on the dash and thought I'd ask for some tips especially from the guys that have done this kind of thing before. Chris
Last reply by CDL1542, -
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Engine turns over, then stalls. Checked all fusible links, no issue. Fails first test of the EFI bible...no power at the plug to ECU.. Could use some advice, please.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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3 years ago I was struggling to sort out some nasty electrical problems with help from SteveJ. During the process i replaced the original VR wih a new one, in hopes that it would solve the problem or at least overcome some of them. Image attached. Two weeks ago after driving at night I was left stranded with a dead battery. Cause? The new and improved VR was dead, so I pulled dug out the original and re-installed it. Problem solved. Keeping all of my old parts from now on.
Last reply by anthony_c, -
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- 34 replies
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Most vehicles have long since changed away from a potentiometer based instrument dimmer to a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) based electronic dimmer controller and I've been working on retrofitting one of these newer style electronic dimmer controllers into my 280Z. I poked around the junkyard looking for one that would mechanically fit in the original potentiometer location and settled on one from a late eighties to early nineties Toyota Camry. The main criteria needed are short stubby mounting depth and rotate control instead of a thumbwheel so I could mount it in the original dimmer pot location. This is the dimmer out of a 91 Toyota Camry: The biggest hurdle with this…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I have had this ongoing problem for some time now. Basically the lock cylinder works great, the ignition switch (when not hooked up to the cylinder) works great, but when the ignition switch (with arrows pointing towards each other [ >< ] ) is screwed into the body of the rest of it, I find that I really have to crank the key over multiple times and only get it to crank every dozen tries. I'm assuming that the metal piece that actuates the switch is out of alignment or bent. Not sure if this is a common issue, but I'm getting tired of taking the steering column apart and would appreciate some words of advice! Chris
Last reply by CDL1542, -
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I finished rebuilding my engine and am starting to swap it in. 280zx distributor, MSD coil. The setup ran fine 3 days ago on the L24. Now with the new L28, I have very weak spark. Spark from the coil to the distributor is strong. It is intermittent and weak from the plugs. Will the oil drive spindle being in the wrong position have any effect on the timing of the spark in the rotor? We we tried a new MSD coil and no change. The other option could be wires, ignition module, cap, rotor or plugs. Everything is new or less then 2000miles. i ran the ignition for a while testing oil pressure without the plugs in. Without them being grounded, is …
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
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Hello everyone, looking to see where I can purchase the terminals and rubber covers for the fuel sending unit wiring. Mines are as hard as a rock. Thanks!
Last reply by DaveR, -
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Ok so first off I have a 1977 280z. I am currently using an alternator from an oldsmobile cutless 1981. This is a 83amp alternator. Everything is mounted and wired correctly. As of recent I have been having the issue of charging. Now my charging light turns on with the engine off. I have checked the resistance in the yellow and black wire from the alternator to the battery and I read 40ohms. I believe spec is 35ohms. Now the factory volt meter is inaccurate. 14v charging looks like 16v (I have verified no over charging system charges at 14.7 when charging). Now heres where things get interesting I have seen the voltage drop when putting a load on the system lights, blower…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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