Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Hey Guys, During the process of getting my 77 280z running I have ran into an issue. The car runs great but it is only running on battery power, the alternator is not charging. I first suspected that the alternator was just old and worn out so I followed the ZX upgrade procedure and eliminated the stock voltage regulator. I completed the install and am still getting the same results (no charging). During my research I have found that most people have some sort of diode on the back of the alternator connected to the voltage output wire and grounding to the housing. My car does not have this diode. I also am getting battery voltage at one of the T connector wires. Im …
Last reply by Driftinrican, -
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My stock 76 had a 2 wire water temp sensor in the thermostat housing.. I plan on using the housing from the donor motor, which was from a 78 or 79 z or zx. Are all of these sensors the same? I noticed the water temp sensor had 2 wires (1 bullet, 1 ground screw) on my stock one, but the donor one only has the bullet connector, no ground. Will this work? Is it internally grounded? Thanks
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Both mine have come loose and need to be soldered back on. Are they specific or just a ground break switch? Thanks for any help.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I checked my alternator while the engine was running and it's putting out 16.8 v at the alternator and the battery, that's way to high isn't it? Thanks, Chris
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I know this has been a recurring subject over the years but so far I haven't found a definitive fix for it in the archives. 1970 240Z, same year tach, Pertronix ignition. Tach will accurately show RPM up to 4000 then it cuts out and the needle drops back down until the revs come below 4000 when it will start working again. Any advise welcome, thanks, Chris
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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The fuse cover over the AC fan motor fuse was distorted (lightly melted). I replaced the cover and used the correct 20amp fuse. I installed a reman alternator a few months back after the orig unit shorted thru the diode pack, taking out the fuse link with in and killing the entire electrical system. With the reman alt in place everything works BUT with the lights and fan (AC) on at idle (800-1000 rpm) the voltage at the alternator is 12.5v and the amp meter shows a slight discharge. If I get above 1500 it will just keep up. I am pretty sure its not the regulator as I have jumped the field coil to the bat term (idle speed only to avoid over volta…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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I have a 73 240Z which I converted a few years back from points to a Crane 700 electronic ignition. Ever since I did the conversion I have had difficulty starting the car when it is cold and the engine easily floods. The spark appears weak while cranking and often needs a shot of starter fluid to turn over. The real problem is that it generally only starts after I stop cranking the starter. As soon as I let off the key to stop the starter from cranking is when it generally starts. It seems like the starter is drawing too much current but I'm fairly convinced that it has something to do with how I have the electronic ignition wired as this was never a problem before the co…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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When I got my Z a few months ago I noticed those clamp on style terminals (where you cut off the orig end and just replace that and not the cable). I tried to find a correct cable (4 ga with 2 assy terms one for the EFI and one for the chassis ground) but could not find one on line. I ended up going to advance auto and for about 15$ I got a 48" neg with the two leads that had crimp on ends attached. Cut it down to about 24" and removed the plastic on the crimp on ends so I could solder in the EFI and ground lead. Finished up with some heat shrink. Solder on copper lug for the connection at the starter mounting bolt. Looks a lot better and I hope will be trouble f…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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The TIU on my bone stock'78 280Z bit the dust so I decided to replace it with a GM HEI unit. The one I got was new and from a '83 Buick Regal V6 in case anyone thinks it matters. I took the 5-pin connector off the old TIU circuit board and wired the HEI unit to it so I could just plug it in the wiring harness like the old TIU. I wired the 4 pins and ground on the HEI to the appropriate pins on the old connector and confirmed I had good conductivity through the connector. When I plug it in the car won't start. It cranks but has no spark. The seatbelt buzzer doesn't even come on when you turn the key on. Has anyone installed a HEI unit this way before? I checked that I had…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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The teardown slowly continues. Gameplan is a dip or blast of the stripped down car so I want to remove all the harnesses. The harnesses are a huge improvement over the wiring I found in my 68 Datsun 2000 roadster, but also much more complicated. So far it looks like the large plugs are self explanatory and the smaller ones ( contrary to the 68 roadster) are actually color coordinated. I will be taking careful notes and diagrams, and tagging all the ends of the wires but am looking for any helpful tips some of you Z experts may have learned in your years of experience. As a whole the harnesses look very good-RR tail light wiring is damaged-appears to have been chewed …
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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My auto electric book from the 90's says buy alt / VR as a set so they "match". Does it matter ? They don't sell sets, and there's a generic photo of the VR's used for different makers and part numbers. I think I have a 60 amp alternator, all they seem to sell are 50 and 60 amp. Same alternator part numbers for 240, 260, and 280z. Want to get a spare VR to keep in the car. Had both kind, mech. and elect., go belly up so don't know which. From the original look of the one on my car when I bought it, I guess they lasted longer previously. Maybe the new mechanical ones are made by older children, since they're more complicated. My new elect. one is working OK I gues…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I don't know if this will work but it seems like it might, if my limited understanding of how the tach works is close. It uses the GM HEI module as the "pulse" source for the tachometer. One scheme is for the 240Z current-reading tach, and the other is for the voltage-reading 280Z unit. Serendipitously, the factory GM HEI module limits current to about 4 -5 amps, apparently. The current through the 240Z tachometer should be about 4 amps, so it's a pretty close match. 13 / (1.6 + 1.6). Primary circuit coil resistance and ballast resistor are both 1.6 ohms. 13 volts is nominal battery voltage. The 240Z tach just sees voltage rising and falling as the coil ch…
Last reply by madkaw,
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