Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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So I find myself building a headlight relay upgrade harness for the 71 project car I'm working on. I've been making my own for a long time, can't justify the $158 USD cost of buying one from MSA. Especially with the exchange rate the way it is. While building this one, it reminded me that a friend had asked me to build him one for his '76 280 last fall, so I thought I should do two at once and save a bit of time. Then I remembered the "detail" that makes the 280Z harnesses a royal pain. There are no sources for the round 4 pin weatherproof connectors that the 280's use to make the harness plug and play. You are forced to hack into the harness or replace the plug…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Just purchased this Pertronix Ignition Coil model 40011 which is rated 1.5 ohms and was wondering if it is connected correctly to the ballast resistor and to the eléctrical system. I am also concerned if i am missing any washer or plate which is fastened to the ballast resistor as i want to have a secure and long lasting coil. Do i need to add any additional protection?
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I'm doing the voltmeter for ammeter swap. The 71 240Z has a yellow with red stripe and a yellow wire. I think they're yellow. May have been white at one time. May have yellowed over time. It also has a black wire. I already connected wires for the voltmeter (not in the pic). The wires in these two pics are for the fuel guage. In the other pic there are green, yellow and black wires. Does it matter how I connect the green and yellow wires to the 240Z wires? Green to yellow with red stripe or green to yellow? Any help? Thank you very much.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Keep trace diagram and simplified how I should connect '77 Voltmeter replacing with '75 ammeter. 1. Connect Black and Black line on Voltmeter. Both goes to Ground. 2. Add bullet male connector for Green/White line on Voltmeter. 3. Extend White/Red line to fuse box and connect to IGN after fuse. I might just connect W/R, W, and G together to fuse box that connect to IGN line.
Last reply by tamo3, -
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I am about to order a Pertronix coil model 40511 which is 3.0 ohms to be used with a Pertronix 1761 ignitor module installed in my distributor. I was wondering if it was better to go for the 1.5 ohms versión and connect it to the stock ballast resistor as it would protect the coil from overheating? Any recommendations on this.
Last reply by SurferD, -
No spark...
by tamo3- 2 replies
- 1k views
It's been long time. Finally I got some spare time while Xmas holidays and I was working on ignition. My 280z is '75 none CA model. I can't get spark. I unplug spark plug and wire and leave it near strut mount top and turn on key to ignition position. The starter motor is clanking, but no spark. Where should I check? I have several modification on wiring. I removed SHUNT and directly connect the line Red/White and White line. I removed External Voltage regulator and install CS-144 Alternator. But I don't think this is related. I check fuse, all looks good. I replaced fuel pump and fuel pump is wor…
Last reply by tamo3, -
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Is this kit still available?
Last reply by tamo3, -
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While replacing my old washer motor which wasnt working at all with a brand new one I ran into a problem. I couldnt get the new washer motor work and while testing it to see what the problem was my wiper motor stopped working. Replaced the fuse but that didnt fix it. is there a relay i should check next or should i look somewhere else first for the issue. Quote MultiQuote Edit Add As Video
Last reply by Kamaka z, -
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It's almost funny that I can wire up a Megasquirt stand alone ECU, but I can't seem to get the wiring on the tach adapter to work. I think it's the path of those dam tach wires. The black/white changes to green/white and then back to black white-argh. I finally pulled the tach out and got out my multimeter and tracked the wires, since there are several wires with this color combo. I found where the wires come out under the glove box in separate plugs -of all things. So I run a continuity test at these two ends under the glove box and they are connected. The problem seems to be that the ignition is in this loop somehow, but still trying to figure that out. The Meg…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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All my utility lights (engine bay trouble light, clove box light and interior light) don't work on my 78' z. I have a wiring diagram but it does not show the utility lights. Any ideas on how to fix this? Thanks!
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Hi guys, I have just bought a 1976 280z. The car passed smog and is in a great physical condition. There are a few issues like a sun roof that was supported by 2x4 wooden blocks from inside, non-working temp/fuel/voltage gauges, seized up a/c pulley, disconnected a/c, bad brakes and door bell switch mounted on the side of the steering column as a horn :-). The inside illumination for gauges works, the tach works as well. I downloaded the wiring service manual for 1976 and it shows only 1 ignition relay (page BE-36). All gauges connect through this relay. I took the relay block apart (pass. side) and I found 2 relays hooked together,part B5230-W0500, MR5A031A1K 12v! Ho…
Last reply by darom, -
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Does anybody knows what is the size and lenght of the screw and washer needed to hold the position of the distributor once the timing is set??? I know it comes out with an 8mm wrench. NISSAN 22750-H2300, SCREW KIT: Anyone??
Last reply by jalexquijano,
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