Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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I’ve been meaning to fix my silent horn since I bought the car but it’s just been sitting in the corner of the garage bugging me. So I dropped it into some lemon juice and salt mix before we went camping for a week. I love this method of de-rusting: cheap and gentle but it gets into all the places I can’t with a brush! This is the before photos (well after a couple of hours of soaking when I realised I hadn’t done a “before”) Then when we got back, I fished this out (pic is after a rub down with micro fibre cloth to remove residues etc) - I love the fact that even the paint has been stripped off and you can read the original stamping on the back: Now …
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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I'm installing a 4psi electric fuel pump for triple Webers and am going with Ford inertia switch, in the past when I have done this I have always used the switch to kill the positive side but now I'm wondering if there aren't some benefits to killing the negative side instead. The neg lead is isolated from the metal housing. Any thoughts?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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So it has been very common for me to "upgrade" Z head lights using CIBIE H4 housings, and then stuff in either H4 halogen bulbs, or more recently, LED H4 bulbs. Save the ol' headlight switch contacts with lower current LED bulbs and maybe you don't need to add a relay harness I say. All good. Lord, but there are SO many options for LED H4 bulbs out there. Which ones to choose? There are tons of prebuilt fancy one piece LED 7" round headlights out there (thank you to the millions of classic Jeep owners), but most of them are far too modern looking for any Z restoration I'm doing. I want a classic looking lens, then jazz the innards. There is a basic issue …
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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I'm trying to clean out my engine compartment of unused connectors and components. The emergency override button had already been removed so I thought I could just eliminate the seatbelt interlock relay and associated plugs. No luck. The starter solenoid wouldn't activate without the relay. Is there a means of removing the relay by jumping selected wires? It really serves no purpose at this point.
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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Hello gang! Been about 2 years since I properly saw the Z and played with it. But being on gardening leave, I’ve finally got time again. I’m using an ATi super racing damper, which has a 70mm pulley - to reduce parasitic losses. Yay for free BHP and boo for alternator spinning at just less than half speed, not producing charge at idle revs! Most alternators do nothing of note below 1200-1400 shaft RPMs. To combat this, I had it professionally rewound to produce earlier + modified a 63mm pulley on a lathe. This reduced the issue but the voltage needle still dances at idle until about 1300rpm which I don’t like, especially as the lights dim then go bright with rising …
Last reply by AK260, -
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I’m troubleshooting my windshield washer circuit and I’m stuck: 1) The wipers work but the washer motor has not run since I got the car ~5 years ago. 2) Voltage measured between the two wires when unplugged from the washer motor reads 3.8V when the washer button is pressed. 3) At individual wires I’m getting around 12V to relative to ground (11.97V and 12.31V) when the washer button is NOT pressed. 4) On one washer motor wire I’m getting around -0.56V to ground and +3.2V to ground on the other wire when the washer button IS pressed. I’m assuming that there should be +12V going to each contact when the sprayer is not used and the…
Last reply by Jeff Berk, -
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I found a website that lists many of the old YPC connectors for sale. Here's a link to their YPC inventory: https://www.hi-1000ec.com/product-list?keyword=ypc&Submit=Search&page=1 The last item in the search is for a pin removal tool, too. The website whois shows a registration in Japan. I placed an order last night, and today I received an email with a photo of the shipping label and a photo of the parts I ordered bagged up. That certainly inspires confidence in ordering. This should help in making repairs and modifications to 260Zs and 280Zs.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm trying to trouble shoot - anyone have a circuit diagram?
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Last reply by pmajor9, -
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I'm trying to find the proper orientation of the marker lights on 73 Z. As you know they are thicker on one end and thinner on the other. I've look at numerous phots of z's and it seems to vary. Anyone know the correct orientation? Does the wider part go towards the front of the car of the back or the back? Are the front ones orientated differently than the rear? Thanks for your help. Didn't find an answer in the other postings,
Last reply by Racer X, -
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So, I decided I wanted to update the fuse box (it'll be one part of the electrical system plan), I designed one in Fusion360 and got it 3D printed by my brother in law (he's new to 3D printing and I haven't a clue about it). Here's what the result was. The back side didn't print real smooth, but I figure that's operator error. This is designed for full size blade fuses. I tested it with female spade connectors (snap-in) and a blade fuse. They fit and connect with a little tension. The mounting tabs/ears are spaced accordingly and are same general shape as the original (thickness might be a bit different.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I have a 6/71 which should have the earlier harness with the longer pig tail fuse box connections. Seems the PO mixed and matched some stuff from a 72 or later and I think I have a late 71 / 72 dash harness and short pig tail fuse box. As I start on the dash area restoral couple of questions if you don't mind. First, are there any major differences with the harness I need to worry about or as long as the fuse box matches the harness I should be good? Everything seemed to be working off dash / console except the radio and rear defrost but I know why. The rear defrost had the inline fuse holder broken (needs replacing) and the radio was something he just threw in there…
Last reply by Richie G, -
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The paper gaskets are too damaged to reuse so I'm wondering if I can use a thin layer of liquid gasket instead of the paper? The sealer would keep the horn from rusting up again the way the paper gaskets allowed but wondering liquid gasket might damped the vibrations when the horn is sounding off. Any experience either way?
Last reply by SteveJ,
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