Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 16 replies
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Hello, Thank you for your thoughts. Here is my problem... the dome and map light aren't working. bulbs are good. When I put a probe to the map light harness it tells me that one feed is connected to positive and one connected to negative , but I get no voltage. For the dome light, the probe is telling me that all the wires are a negative feed. that really shouldn't be that way. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. It's a late 260Z automatic. Doesn't everyone love electrical issues . Thank you, Scott
Last reply by Kurbycar32, -
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- 2 followers
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I recently completed a headlight relay upgrade, but I did it differently than the traditional approach. It's a little more complicated, but I think the results were worth the effort. Basically, I used four relays instead of two so that each filament has it's own set of contacts and high currents are not shared on the same set of contacts. While I was at it, I also modified the headlight switch to connect to ground instead of connecting to power. This enabled me to reduce the number of wires needed run to the relay block. Advantages are: Uses the original fuses in the fuse block and does not require additional wires run from the battery. Original fuse block lid print…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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After literally several years of searching, I recently managed to purchase an unused set of European (UK) specification headlight bowls (this year’s holiday spending will have to take a hit because of it, though). Unusually for a UK example, most of the metalwork on my car is in good condition, but for some reason the existing headlight bowls were badly corroded and un-restorable. It may be to do with the fact that UK roads are often salted in the winter, which does not do the metalwork much good, even after a couple of seasons. I thought there was a post on here which discussed the Koito headlight units, but I cannot find it, where there was possibly a date stamped…
Last reply by jerz, -
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- 5 replies
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Hey gang, Wanted to share this story. It's a great FYI. And it's not mentioned anywhere to check as a possible failure. We have been battling a crazy distributor problem for the past month. First the 240z began to slowly run horrible to the point where it just wouldn't stay running after starting. After about a week of troubleshooting, checking compression (124-128psi), checking valves (a tiny bit out), Checking timing (dead on), Checking for water in the gas (nope), replacing the coil, and lots of cussing nothing. One thing we didn't check was the points... hmm, why should we they were replaced only a month earlier. They look fine. Might as well check with the feele…
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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My Z.hit F 250 pick up in the parking lot. Anyone know where I can get a side marker light?
Last reply by ktm, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
- 1.1k views
My brake lights dont work at all. All other lights work. I have power in the brake light switch behind the pedal. And power up to the blinker switch. I cant find power coming out of the blinker switch. Does that mean that the blinker switch is the problem or could it be the hazard switch (doesnt the power goes from battery-fusebox-hazard-brakeswitch-blinkerswitch and back to the tail lights). Could someone confirm./Andreas
Last reply by moelk, -
- 1 reply
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Just bought a Cardone A1 31-606 Distributor to replace my tired Hitachi Original Distributor on my 1972 240z: http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-1-CARDONE-31-606-Remanufactured-Distributor-Point-Type-fit-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-/311194019573?fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A240Z&hash=item48749be6f5&vxp=mtr Surprise, this model does not allow the Pertronix Ignitor 1761 module to sit flush with the Center Shaft. I have attached pictures for ready reference: first 2 are the Cardone and last 2 are actual Hitachi which is currently in my car. I believe the only solution is to tear down the original Hitachi distributor and replace the vacuum advance using the one from the Cardone…
Last reply by Patcon, -
LED Headlights 1 2
by tdoakley- 2 followers
- 15 replies
- 2.1k views
There are a number of 7" LED headlights available from GE and others. They are expensive, around $250 each. With other LED replacements around the house and shop, the LEDs use much less power, operate much cooler, and produce comparable light. They would seem to be perfect for improving the lighting on my '72. Has anyone used the LED sealed beams?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 18 replies
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I found this greenish gray distributor cap with my old original dated coded spark plug wires and would like to know if it could be an original cap. It has a Hitachi logo on it, but also has the number 4659-2700 molded into it. This cap looks like it has aluminum terminals, would that be correct or did the originals have brass? Just trying to determine if this is worth saving, any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
- 3 followers
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Can anyone please explain to me the ignition system of a 260z, Im getting no spark to the spark plugs and I doubt its even being transferred to the distributor (previous owner changed points to electronic)....... I get power to the ignition coil(new one), but when I turn the switch I get 12 volts on the possitive side and also on the negative side, and I'm pretty sure there is a wiring issue, a corroded wire or maybe a bad ignition module, so thats why I wold like to know the ignition system and what wires run from where to where so I could hopefully trace the problem down and get my car started... Thank you
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 19 replies
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Hello, Just curious if anyone can identify this alternator. It came on my F54 block, so I assume it's a ZX alt but there is not identifier plate like i've seen online. Can anyone tell by the connections on the back? I'd like to put it on when I put in the new motor as it's clean and painted "pretty", but obviously need to identify it and maybe trouble shoot it on the current motor first.
Last reply by HuD 91gt, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
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The tach in my 73 hasn't worked since I bought it back in December, and I'd like to fix it. Distributor still has points (for now) and it looks like the wiring to the coil is correct. I did try to take a look under the dash when I had the seats out and it looked like it was connected on that end, but hard to get a good look at. So, what's the best way to determine if it's a wiring issue or the tach itself? If the tach, what years are compatible replacements. Are 73 tachs known for failing? Really not looking forward to tearing apart the dash to replace the tach, but that may be what it takes. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Ken
Last reply by KenFirch,
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