Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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I saw an electrical strap in parallel with an add-on alternator adjuster. The purpose was to ensure the electrical return path to the alternator was maintained. This made me wonder first about galvanic corrosion of the timing cover bolts (as they are probably the current path from the block to the alternator as the timing cover is insulated by the gasket. But... after more thought, the alternator is also bolted at the bottom to the block. I am guessing that adding a copper strap from the battery ground at the transmission/starter area directly to the alternator would be a useful modification to reduce electrical currents in the block. Anyone have more insight on …
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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Hi all - I have three sets of 240 taillights. I've cleaned them all, and put them all back together. While I am happy to use a set on my project, I like the JDM set much better. I thought I'd ask the experienced guys - are three sets of 240 lights worth one set of JDM?
Last reply by CEgg11, -
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I have the dash sitting on the bench 9/71 and I want to test all my dash lights while it's sitting in front of me. What wires can I jumper with a 12v source to get that done?
Last reply by madkaw, -
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Weight 71 22109-71300 72 22109-A5500 74 22109-A5500 75 22109-A5500 Spring 71 22110-E4600 72 22110-E4602 73 22100-N3300 74 22100-N3600 75 22110-N4200 Cam 71 22132-E4600 72 22132-E4600 74 22132-N3600 75 22132-N4200 76 22132-N4300 Condensor 71 22102-00801 70-71 FSM D606-52 (manual) Total: 34.5 Init 17 Mech 6 @ 1000 Vac 5.5 72 FSM D606-52 (manual) Total: 34.5 Init 17 Mech 6 @ 1000 Vac 5.5 73 FSM D611-54 (manual) Total: 35 Init 7 Mech 11 @ 1400 Vac 6 74 FSM D6F3-01 (manual) Total: 39 Init 7 Mech 13 @ 1600 Vac 6 75 FSM D6F4-01 (manual) Total: 34.5 Init 7 Mech 10 @ 1360 Vac 7.5 (6 electrical) 76 FSM D4F4-01 (manual) Total: 34.5 Init 7 …
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
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Higuys, For convenience during highway driving as well as saving wear-and-tear, I thought it would be nice to incorporate a latching relay to operate the turn signals. I just don't remember the type and current rating you'd need; I think a simple 10A SPDT would work (for led bulbs)? Then all you'd need is a stalk with a center-off SPDT toggle switch (or a couple pushbuttons) to operate it? A friend has it on an old truck, and I liked driving with it. The only weird thing about the latching relays is that they seem to be all PCB mount design.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Might put a Bosch #00013 coil. Now have 8-year old Crane PS-20 from MSA which I think is 1.5 ohm; the resistor came with it if I remember. The Bosch is 1.8 ohms, at least that's what it says on the label. So I guess I can't use the resistor I have now. I see online there's a Bosch 1.8 ohm resistor (#0227 901 014) that goes with it according to Ferrari site. I guess you have to buy the resistor separately. I'm using fairly new stock 240z euro distributor (points). Is this OK?
Last reply by Stanley, -
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I am posting some photos of part details as I restore. Hopefully they can be of use in the future. I painted the light compartment white to improve output. Heat Shield (seems like engineering correction to alleviate melting plastic) 7.5W Retaining nut in place. Light leak at top edge. Gasket does not seal.
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
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I spent some time last night with a wiring diagram, a soldering iron, and a beer looking at my ignition wiring to see if anything is wired funky that could be messing with my voltage going to my pertronix and coil. I discovered a few neat things. First the way the coil gets its power. I think this is cool (although it is old school to most of you I am sure). In the stock configuration when you turn the key to the last position right before you start, the coil gets its voltage after it runs through the ballast resistor. A stepped down voltage if you will to protect the points I would imagine. Now when you turn the key, the ignition sends 12 V straight to the starter…
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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I am considering in replacing the Ignitor Coil that the former owner of my 72 240z had installed. I believe the coil is somelike weak. Anyone has installed Ignitor II Flamethrower coil? Any experience? I read it delivers 45,000 Volts. This is the one i have currently installed in my vehicle: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4020
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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If you had an LED bulb (an 1156) with lotsa SMD chips on it, how would it fair if it was exposed to some moisture, like an occasional splash of rain, or some mist? I have a license plate lamp with the clear lenses missing.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Last Monday my 72 z was broken into and and attempted to be stolen the only thing that saved it was the fact that it hadn't been driven for two days and the idiots probabaly know nothing about the choke on older cars so it wouldn't start and they bailed. But they did manage to break the tumbler on the ignition switch so now I can start my car with any key, stick, stiff piece of cardboard or any other thing that will fit. So my question is this, Has anybody had any success with any keyless remotes or push button starter switches with a remote key switch since I have to replace this any I should probably upgrade to something a little more theft proof Thanks for any suggest…
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I'm helping a friend restore his 1973 240z so I figured I'd throw some data here for all to enjoy.
Last reply by 240260280z,
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