Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
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Ok you heard it before= Flashers dont work as they should. The cars front right flasher gave up on me 6 month ago. The front left one worked but i had to hold the lever down to make it work. During the last month of winter i pulled my dash for some repair. Its now back and everything workes exept the flashers. Hazard light workes. No front flasher workes. Rear flasher workes when the light switch is in OFF position. If i turn the headlights on the rear flasher stop working. Have i connected something wrong? I took the hazard switch out and opened it, cleaned everything. Made no difference. Any idea?
Last reply by moelk, -
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I am having an issue with one of the direction arrows light on my speedometer as it remains lighted when i turn the light of the car on. I thought the problem was the turn signal switch, so i unplugged it. the left arrow still remain on. I started to jiggle the socket and now it does not turn on, so i believe the bulb must have burned. How can i fix this without pulling the complete dashboard apart? What kind of White led bulbs should i purchase to replace all these bulbs? Any supplier and part number? Anyone???
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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My 71 240Z started doing this late last summer. At the same time it started killing the battery after parking it for more than 3 days without driving it because of parasitic voltage drain. After reading through numerous threads and endless hours of unsuccessful electrical troubleshooting of these problems, this is what I have figured out to remedy these issues. At first I thought the ignition switch was faulty. The new switch didn't change anything. I thought that maybe the new ignition switch was bad too, but before I got too carried away I decided to go back again and try to figure out where the battery drain was coming from when the key was in the off or lock position.…
Last reply by glassguy, -
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I had a collection of odd problems all happen in one day, hot start (unclear why), stuck fuel pump relay (had to use my pump switch to get home), and brake pads grinding on the disc (caught just in time), and one of them, just to confuse the overall situation, was that my tachometer stopped working correctly. It would just bounce around between zero and 500 or not move at all. I pondered living with it like that for a while after I fixed all of the other problems, because changing tachometers is a pain, but remembered that I had had to install a condenser on the negative terminal of the coil years ago, when using the GM HEI module with a 300ZX ignition coil. Since t…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Putting the 71 heater stuff back in the car. Added a new modern fuse block to eliminate some power woes. With the new block in and hooked up, the a/c fuse has no power with the key off or on. Is this the same circuit that runs the heater controls? Bench tested the blower motor but with the harness in the car I can't turn on the blower motor. All the heater stuff was bypassed when I bought the car so i'm kind of working from scratch. Any idea's?
Last reply by GeoJoe, -
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I am planning on replacing my - 45 --- +45 original ahmeter / fuel gauge installed from Factory in my 1972 240z with a used 280z voltmeter / fuel gauge. The purpose of doing this is because it is not working and could be damaged. The fuel section does work perfectly. Anyway i have several questions: 1. If i decide to change the alternator to a High Output 125 amp alternator if it was not damaged will it still work as i have a spare 45 ahmeter? Right now it has a Bosch 60 amp alternator. 2. Will this upgrade of a 280z voltmeter affect the originality of the car? Value of the car? 3. Will i need to make some modifications to the circuit or is it just plug and play wit…
Last reply by Jehannum, -
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My brother and I an effort to simplify our 280z'z wiring have removed most of the stock ignition parts. We have replaced them with an MSD6a, 8920, Mallory coil, and the stock magnetic pickup that came on our 77 280z. We have the fuel injector pulse wire hooked up via the blue line. We have the smaller gauge red line from the MSD going to the ignition panel we are using. We have the smaller gauge red line from the 8920 going to the ignition panel we are using. We basically have the stock key in the ignition and it’s always on wired up and away. We use a master on off switch because it’s a race car so we do not have to have the key functioning in any way. Here is the …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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As I have mentioned in other threads, when I originally put my 240Z back together I installed a GM style "Single Wire" hot-rod alternator in place of the 40A externally regulated unit. Well, that silly thing died recently, and since I really need the car operational next weekend, I decided to do the ZX upgrade described here: http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ I went to the local Advance Auto, and ordered an alternator for a 280ZX Turbo, because they are supposed to be 70A units. I am not sure that is really what I ended up with, but the test report that was taped to the rebuilt alternator shows a maximum output under full load of 72A at 13.5V, so I was happy to see that. …
Last reply by Jehannum, -
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Question for those with relatively intact radio setups in their 240Zs: is there a radio-switched power connection to the rear? I'm adding a small amplifier with a bluetooth receiver (as well as a couple of modern speakers), while retaining the function of the stock AM radio in my '71, and should the radio switch power somewhere in the back already (maybe the antenna?), it would be fairly convenient to use that to turn the new setup off, when the stock radio turns on. If not, is there a switched output somewhere on the radio itself that I could run back to the rear?
Last reply by Jehannum, -
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Here's one for Cap'N O- I have a dinger from a 280ZX, but it doesn't ding-dong all by itself. It's basically a tiny doorbell, so it only goes ding-dong if you pulse the electric power. My goal is to power it, like you would a small bulb flasher. There is to be a minimum of parts (2 or 3.) My two ideas so far were to use a blinking Christmas tree bulb (Circuit 1) and just run the 12V through it. It should work, but the ding-dong rate should be a little slow. The other idea uses a flashing LED (Circuit 2) to control a transistor, so the bell gets enough current. I had some graphics prepared, but I'm still figuring out how to get one into a message.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I'm wanting to install a buzzer and obviously will need to pull power from when the headlights are turned on. I was wondering if there is any way I could avoid cutting into the wiring? I was thinking that maybe I could use the connector from the combo switch. I could fabricate a short stretch with a tee that would insert between the plugs on the combo switch and the dash harness. As long as those stock bullet connectors aren't an oddball size I would think that would work. Thoughts?
Last reply by Adam78, -
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This is something I started a year ago when a friend had problems with his electrical system on a 240Z. It was late 1970 version and we couldn't find any clear color wiring diagrams. There are color diagrams, but mostly traced over original scans and not very clear when printed. The problem in the car is since solved, so now this has falling into the background. It is in AutoCAD 2013 and exported to PDF. Im wondering if there is enough interest. If so I will finish it. I will need input since my Zed is a 280Z. Here it is so far. Please note "work in progress" Chas ColorWiring240Z1971_Concept 15-feb-2015.pdf
Last reply by EuroDat,
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