Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
-
- 35 replies
- 24.2k views
In stead of ordering fusible links from an eBay seller, or from a mail-order retailer, both of which are getting harder to find and may soon be no longer available at all, I think I can get the correct wire from local Auto Parts stores. I have not had an opportunity to dissect one to see how it's made, so I'm asking if anyone has looked into this. It looks like a fusible link is just a short segment of insulated wire with a female blade-connector crimped to the ends, but the OE ones look like the connector pierces the insulation to make contact with the wire inside. After I get some replacements installed, I will take apart one of the old ones to see how you could make o…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
-
- 2 followers
- 3 replies
- 3.3k views
My 280Z uses an MSD 6A ignition. I need to hook up the tachometer, but I don't know what to do. More specifically, the 6A has a grey wire that is related to the tachometer. I imagine the tachometer has some input wire that is looking for a specific voltage. My 6A is in my engine bay on the right side (near the relay box). Is there some convenient way for me to hook this up? I would prefer not having to run a wire through the firewall and splicing stuff onto my tach. Also, I do have the 8910 MSD module that is apparently required for correct functioning. Thanks! EDIT: Here is what I see in the relay box: http://imgur.com/a/0VyHN. I'm hoping I can use one of these. Thanks a…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 6.6k views
My car cranks but chokes out if you press on the gas. It will only rev if you very slowly increase the acceration. Performed several successful test from the Electronic Fuel Injection manual. When I tested the voltage on pin 1 from the harness, Test #2 - (1) Ignition Coil Trigger Input Circuit, it was supposed to read battery voltage, but read only 3.6 volts. Anyone run into this problem? I'm only finding people that performed this test successfully with a reading of 12v. Thanks.
Last reply by stroccoli, -
- 14 replies
- 6.8k views
Alright guys so I was planning on using a Mallory MAL 2363901 distributor and pertronix in my 11/70 240z but I just got an email back saying that they're discontinued and sold out. Every other place I've tried online seems to be sold out as well. I'm thinking of going with the Mallory unilite with mechanical advance (no vacuum advance) coupled with pertronix and was hoping someone else here might have had success with it and can give me some info. I'm going to be installing triple mikuni carbs shortly and plan on keeping the ballast resistor and using a 1.5ohm coil as well. If someone has done this before and could share what model they are using it would be greatly appre…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 0 replies
- 1.3k views
Does anyone have any experience with these lamps? I haven't been able to find any specifications on them, but I think they are a 3 x 5 inch spot lamp with a 50 watt bulb.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 6 replies
- 6.1k views
Hi, just purchased some battery cables(pos. and neg) and noticed that the ground has a butt connection instead of a ring terminal to screw into the firewall. Would anyone have the length for the ground cable to the firewall and also the length of the main ground wire? Also the positive cable length. I am attaching a pic from http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/. Thanks, mo
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 4.4k views
Here's a weird one for you guys.... so the previous owner had the horn wired to a push button on the dash... obviously I want to use the horn pad. The horn is aftermarket and wired seperately from how the original would have been but here's the thing... I have two wires in the cabin. If I touch them together the horn beeps. The first wire I connected to the base of the horn where the original red and black striped wire was. Now the second wire is where I'm lost.... If I touch it to the metal part of the horn it sounds but connecting it this way doesn't allow for me to use the horn pad (or turn the wheel...). I was really hoping someone could help me figure this one out! T…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
- 23 replies
- 3.8k views
I got a 280zx matchbox style ignition module, my question is when wiring it in can I put it in the stock location using the red wire green wire and black ground wire that go to the stock unit? Is there a wire diagram available for this, I haven't been able to find much info. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 6 replies
- 2.8k views
Hi, I'm working on upgrading alternator to CS144. In order to upgrade, I m thinking about upgrading 12V+ and ground(earth) wiring too. Is this good idea to upgrade to 4gauge wires between alternator, starter, and battery? I wasn't sure it's too fat wire or not. Thanks, Tamo3
Last reply by rossiz, -
- 10 replies
- 4k views
I purchased this kit from my friend pretty cheap. Too bad i have no clue what are all these wires. There is Pertronix kit installed on the distributor, Crane Fireball Hi-65 module of and MSD blaster 2 coil. This came from Z but how the heck there is 4 times more wires than in the original system? I do have no-points system in my car but even with it there is only 1 or 2 extra wires...My friend told me that with that coil no ballast resistor is needed, yet there is one with gazillion wires in it. I really need your input here cause my old distributor is broken..
Last reply by Reverend, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 1.4k views
Hello, Currently rebuilding the dash harness and observed a few wires that needed identifying. -Blue wire spliced into a red wire. PO had a green wire spliced in with a fuse directly to the green wire to the flasher. The green wire to the flasher has continuity from the connector to the flasher end. -Red and blue striped wire, has a red wire connected through the bullet connection. Also I completed the engine harness and replaced a white wire. The wire had no terminal on it, maybe it was torn off. What kind of terminal would go on this white wire(no pic attached). Thanks!
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 930 views
I was considering a replacement for the aging powered antenna. I considered a flexible rubber one, because it's compact and doesn't need polishing. Then I discovered the on-glass "hidden" antennas. Metra makes one and the Shakespeare 4353. These things look like a thin copper "snake" (as if it came off a printed circuit board) on a piece of tape. Has anyone had any experience with this kind of stuff? It looks like the on-glass part would be nice, as long as you can find a place where you can stick it (the lower-right corner?) but it's still there if you look, and there is a little black box that will probably be seen no matter where you stick the antenna strip, and…
Last reply by TomoHawk,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
Jeff Berk
