Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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- 12 replies
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Hello All, I recently picked up a early 74' 260Z with 25k miles on it for free. It is all original, and still has the CT plates from 92'. Has some minor rust problems and lots of mouse droppings. Also has uncracked dash and besides the seats, a perfect interior. I've got it running pretty good now, but am struggling with the charging system. So far I have tried the following: - Three different voltage regulators - Cleaned all connectors - Tested alternator, and is fully functional - Checked and cleaned fused links The battery voltage is around 12.6V, and doesn't vary mutch when I change engine RPM. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Pete
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I have this distributor in my 240z. It not the original but were does it come from, 280z or 280zx? It has no numbers/letters on the black box.
Last reply by moelk, -
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I bought one of Dave’s side-marker conversion plug kits from MSA and have installed both the headlight relay kit and parking light relay kit. Both of these were very straight forward and installation was pretty much a plug and play affair. Now I am working on the side-market conversion plugs (SCP) and having an issue getting the side-marker housing isolated from the body. The instructions say to use an Ohm meter and see if the black wire going from the housing completes a circuit to the body. I encountered a complete circuit tone so I widened the holes in the housing and put some electrical tape around the back of the housing and tried again. Once installed I conti…
Last reply by Hardway, -
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I am next to installing an AC system on my 240z. I have noticed that on the right hand of the engine there seems to be 4 holes to install a bracket to mount a compressor. Where can i purchase this compressor mounting bracket? Will the ones from a 280zx fit? or should i manufacture one? I saw one on ebay from a 79-83 ZX. Anyone?
Last reply by hr369, -
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Install a lever next to the choke and wire it to the vacuum advance connection inside the distributor (remove the vacuum advance canister). The next step is to adjust the cable so that it swings the full excursion of the advance. The final step is to set the nominal advance with the lever in the middle. In theory this will allow you to set the timing in the middle then push it to dial up more advance for cruising on a highway and pull it to reduce advance for starting the car. I was trying to come up with a way to increase fuel efficiency then this eureka moment fell upon me . I think I hear Lazeum smiling You could also make the lever into an ejection seat activato…
Last reply by 240dkw, -
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I've always wondered where the 4500 RPM limit "rumor" about GM's HEI module came from and finally found the source, in a book David Vizard authored called "How to Build Max-Performance Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget". The relevant pages are actually available on the internet - [h=1][/h] How to Build Max-Performance Chevy Small-Blocks on a Budget - David Vizard - Google Books I was a little disappointed after reading all of the the various things that Vizard has written. In the end it seems like he's using the old technique of selling aftermarket products by pointing out "flaws" in existing product. I think that he started by selling MSD product, then went to DUI dist…
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I have a problem with my left turn signal marker in the tachometer of my 240z. The problem first started last night when i decided to turn all the lights on the car. The left marker light of the car lighted up continuosly without turning the turn signal switch to the left or to the right. If i shut the light off and move the lever to right or left it does light intermittently as it should. All the four turn signal lights are working perfectly outside of the car. In view of the above, the problem seems to be on the the tachometer itself, do you think it is making a false contact and it is the reason why it is not working correctly. Please advise.
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
- 9 replies
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After my ebrake cable broke, I have noticed that my brake lights stay on even when the car is off. I did not have this issue before and am trying to figure out what the issue is. I understand that there is a switch where the hande is, but that doesn't seem to be it. I have a new cable on order and hope that once I install it, this will correct the issue, but I would like to hear if there is anything else that could be causing it.
Last reply by CDL1542, -
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Affordable JDM/Euro type tail lamps. It has more modern finish to it: Refectors inside back up lamp area, and sparking finish lenses. *Comes with nuts, bolts, light bulbls, and sheet type gaskets. *Note that the harness is for Japanese Domestic models. We offer very detailed reproduction ones and they look great, but not cheap. So we decided to offer products from another supplier.
Last reply by Oiluj, -
- 12 replies
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Hello everyone, looking to tackle the wiring harness soon. What is the general consensus on "refreshing" the harness? I was going to do the following: 1. extract the pins from the connector unless its a bullet or single terminal. 2. remove the terminal without cutting the wire with plier or similar tool. 3. possibly dip in warm water and baking soda to remove oxidation, then use Emory cloth to sand the wire down, if wire is shot then add a piece of wire and shrink wrap(what is the best solution here)? 4. clamp in new pins. 5. clean the connector housing with warm water, a brush and degreaser or electrical cleaner. 6. install the connecter into the new pins and apply some…
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
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I think I will try to build a high-mount brake lamp with LEDs on a printed circuit board, but I want the circuit board to be curved to fit inside the lamp housing, which has a curved, chrome reflector for the bulb that was there before. Is it possible to bend the epoxy circuit board into a permanent curve? After etching the circuit on the back, I would use the heat gun to warm it until it will bend, then let it cool in that shape, then solder the parts to it, add some aluminum foil to reflectorize, and glue it into the housing.
Last reply by djwarner, -
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- 16 replies
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I took my car out yesterday for a short drive and the first thing I noticed was the BRAKE light inside the speedometer on. I fiddled with the e-brake switch to no avail and checked to make sure the fluids were OK. I stopped at a store a few miles down the road when I got back in and started it, the light went out when the e-brake was disengaged, like normal. Later on, the voltmeter gauge caught my eye as it was bouncing from 14v-16+v while driving, causing the CHG light to flash. Returning to neutral or easing along at low RPMs kept the needle about 14 but every time I gave it gas, it would max out and bounce back and forth. I crept home watching it bounce around until at…
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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