Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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Good evening all, I've searched through the forum, but can't find a similar issue to mine, so here it goes. I've got a 1975 280z, and I'm trying to hunt down an issue that's keeping me from having dash lights. I can turn the headlights on, including the brights, but as soon as I turn the dial for the dash dimmer the wire in the rheostat burns up. If I turn it to the brightest setting (doesn't use rheostat wires, just straight contacts) a few dash lights come on, then the fuse glows red-hot and blows. The wires to the rheostat get pretty hot too, as does the combo switch. The car is all stock electrically, and I've hooked up a test light and there aren't any shorts I can s…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I see those voltage stabilizers on E-bay. Would they help? When do you need them? I have new wiring in my car, new bigger alternator, etc. Does that make a difference? Thank you for any info.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Just bought this car new to the forum. My headlights stopped working but my parking lights still work. Could it be the switch? any help appreciated. Thanks Matt 1970 240Z all original
Last reply by 240tom, -
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Well, the dwell/tach that I bought in 1969 finally died! They just don't build them like they used to, or wait a minute - they did build them pretty good back then. I used the dwell very seldom since adding the Pertronix to my '72 240Z. But I did use the tach function often when tuning carbs or setting timing. Very handy when you don't have a helper! My question is - I have a digital multi meter (DMM) that has a lot of functions but does not have a tachometer function. I always hooked up the '69 meter up to the distributor side of the coil and the other lead to a ground. Is there a function on these meters that would give me the rpm reading (I understand that there m…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I got a pair of 1156 LED bulbs (they were on sale) to try in the back for the turn signals, and the only thing they do is turn on, with no flashing. Does anyone sell some LED bulbs that will work properly? a set of 1157 LED bulbs would then be installed in the fronts. thxZ
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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I have a 1978 280Z. Tail lights (driving) and side marker lights work fine until car is warmed up (about 20 minutes). After that the fuse blows. Before I start chasing wires I figured I'd ask incase someone has had this problem and can tell me the fix. All other lights (headlights, brakes) are fine. The turn signals don't work either (I've tried using different combo switches with the same results) but they are less of a problem then the back lights going out at night. Thanks
Last reply by arts.zccm, -
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Hi All Recently acquired a decent running 73 240z (07/73 production date) So I have searched both google and the assorted forums to no real avail. Heres whats up... wiring was a bit of a mess so I am cleaning it up and I came across the two inline fuses on the main dash harness. One is on a white with red tracer wire and the other is on a light blue wire. The red/white one had a fuse in it but the blue one hand a broken apart fuse...so I replaced it...here is where the fun starts. With the blue wire fuse in I can hear a click in the accessory relay..and the weird part is now the starter will try and engage when the key hits the off position. Un hook the fuse (or accessor…
Last reply by viphoto, -
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I have been sitting/ignoring an electrical problem for some time now, and as of today figured I would take another run at it. About a year ago my combo switch was overheating and melted a wire or two and the plastic connector, seeing as rewiring was out of my range I took it in and had a new combo switch/wiring put in. Shortly after(if not immediately) I noticed that my parking and interior lights were out. It was a blown fuse. Currently: The parking light fuse, after about 15 seconds gets red hot and burns out once the combo switch is turned on to parking lights. I disconnected all the parking and tail lights(and headlights) and flipped the parking lights on the combo sw…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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On my 1976 280Z I was replacing the drivers door switch which I had done before many years ago. When I slowly tugged the switch out the 4 wires became unplugged from the old switch and fell down in the body panel, Does any one have any ideas on how I can get those 4 wires back out? I haven't removed the control box by the drivers left leg yet but it looks as though it solid body panel behind it. I though about getting one of those drain pipe cameras but I'm not sure if the camera will fit in the little hole that the switch mounts to. Thanks for any help!
Last reply by Mikes Z car, -
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OK so how does one go about replacing the dash lights , speedo, tach, gauges,ouch
Last reply by 2sixTZombii, -
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Another question for everyone Does anyone know if, or how the top lamp assembly can be removed from the housing? The part I'm talking about is the 1-1/2 inch center disk. I'd like to send my inspection light housing in to have a new zinc coating applied to them so that they're nice and shiny again. thanks
Last reply by peng155, -
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I am in the middle of replacing my fuse box with an upgraded MSA unit. When it came time to chop off the old spade terminals and transfer them to my new box I hit a roadblock. As you can see the female terminals inside the sleeves have seen some heat. The reason for this is they are somewhat corroded and this corrosion lead to resistance which leads to heat. Needless to say I don’t want to use them and need to source some new ones. I am also thinking of replacing the male terminals as well but some steel wool may shine them up. For now I am having a heck of a time finding the female terminals where I don’t have to buy 10 – 10,000 of them and there is not a 3 w…
Last reply by ZCurves,
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KenFirch
