Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,450 topics in this forum
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My alternator recently gave out in my 73 Z, so I ordered the MSA 60 amp upgrade kit. I decided to give their alternator a try instead of sourcing one locally. Of course they warned me it's made for 70-72 Z's, and additional work is needed for a 73, have a pro install it, no warranty, etc. There are a handful of threads here for a 73, but some with broken links, and some with unanswered questions. Maybe this thread can be used to consolidate 73's. From what I gather, for a 73: Install new alternator and connect per instructions. The regulator plug (Dave's) is the same for 73 as 70-72. Extra wiring is required if you are running an electric…
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Last reply by jpc3006, -
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Hey guys, I am reassembling my dash and my next obstacle is replacing all the broken connectors (have broken locking tabs) on the dash harness. I have heard vintage connections carries datsun connectors, but they don't seem to have what I need. My connections seem to be bullet connections inside the connector instead of spade. I am sure many people have ran into this problem. Should I just repin the connectors for spade connections and go with one of the vintage connectors. I would prefer to find the proper connector and save the hassle of repinning the harness, so let me know if you know where to get these connectors!
Last reply by crayZlair, -
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Can anybody guess what I'm about to try?
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm working on completely rewiring my Z using one of the Painless harnesses. Since these don't come with provisions for the rear defroster, I was just going to use one of the spare circuits to power it. I measured the resistance of the traces and got about 29 ohms which would give a current draw of about half an amp and about 5 watts of heating. My question is, do you think this would be enough heat for the defroster to function properly, or is the resistance of my defroster too high and in need of refurb? I appreciate the help on this one!
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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Recently I lost the fuel and temperature readings on my 1972 240Z simultaneously and am wondering if there is a connection. I know on Roadsters there is a step-down voltage regulator that controls both functions, but I'm not sure if there is any relationship between the two on an early Z. Checked the connections at the fuel tank and the temperature sensor and they seem secure. Is there a single fuse somewhere that controls both? Thoughts?
Last reply by Racer X, -
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I have a 1970 240Z which has some unoriginality to it. In other words: PO(s) did a lot of work to the car, including stuff like disconnecting the wiper fluid pump, etc. Anybody know what this single-wire connector might have run to? It's on the firewall side, just before the main cable bundle goes through the firewall to the cabin, and before the (I believe) windshield wiper motor wires split off. I can't make it out on the Engine Compartment Harness diagram in the FSM.
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Higuys, Is there a chart or a graphic of the connectors nears near the firewall (blue, white and black) that show the connector names? I need to know which is connector "C-4" which has the wires for the headlamps, so I can clean the pins and improve the leadlights. I looked in the Body Electrical section in the FSM and it only refers to C-4, and even tells you where the specific pin is for power & ground connections, but doesn't tell you where to find the connector itself. While I'm looking at them, I will mark them with a black marker. Thx
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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So, I search the forum for an answer, got some info, but not exactly what I need, so here it goes: I'm doing a 73z completer restoration that was originally an automatic and I've converted it to manual using 72z doner parts. I initially left the car with points while starting it and checking it out. It runs with points. Now I want to make the Pertronix conversion (with the flame thrower coil). Since the car was originally an auto it had dual point distributor with one wire to each set of points. I replaced the 73 distributor with a single point distributor from a 72 Z. Since I'm using the original wire harness from the 73, it had two wires the connected to the poin…
Last reply by z3beemer, -
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Recently purchased '74 260Z with non running side marker lights (everything else lights up). Stock fuse components. PO conveniently cut the wires on all 4 side markers. I spliced one side marker (cleaned housing, etc) and replaced with new same spec bulb. Turned on the combo switch, bulb lit up along with front/rear running lights. Within a minute - all the lights went out. Checked 20A fuse for PARK/TAIL and it's OK (replaced it also, lamps still out), removed fuse box and inspected behind for signs of failure - all looks good too (no crusty stuff). Is my issue now the combo switch like I've been reading? Cheers.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I've got my distributor off my 77 because I've been messing with my oil pump, and while looking it over, I noticed a curious little nubbin I did not recognize. Upon consultation with the FSM, it's called "The Contactor". Here's some snippets from the 77 manual showing the little beastie: Ok, so the intention is to prevent hysteresis in the advance mechanisms. Fair enough. But what the heck? Is this simply some small amount of intentional friction to keep the thing from floating on any play in the system?
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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- 410 views
In case anyone's interested, I made this using Adobe Illustrator and converted it to a PNG. It's a big file, but feel free to use it as you like.
Last reply by LorenB667, -
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Today there is a request for hazard switches in the classified forums which leads me to go to the stash and see what I have to help. Pawing through the group, I see plenty of differences. Of course this brings up more questions. We know about the change to the back lit, round pull knob style switch on the North American 240's in 73, and the shorter wires on the 72 switch (6 pin connector wires), but I was surprised by a couple of differences I didn't know about. The marking on the handles vary, and most surprisingly, as does the angle of the switch's bat style handle from one to the next in either position. All of these are the long lead variety, but …
Last reply by dutchzcarguy,
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